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Got the new Kenda tires installed. I had to do the fronts by myself as the shop I went to couldn't get their mounting tool under the bead to get the old tires off. I got it done but not a fun job.

One item I noticed. To expedite things I used a set of Deere 10x6 rims (M139005) which I had. They are used on the X5x5, X728/729/749, and 2305/2210 and also called out for the 102x in the JD Parts Catalog. The tires mounted fine but I found you have to mount them with the valve stems pointing inward otherwise the rod ends from the tie rod assembly will rub. The stems are short necks and just clear the hub pieces. Maybe 3/8"

I see that JD also lists the LVA20123 as the replacement rim. I"m not sure how the valve stem works on those but just something to be aware of when mounting front tires or replacing the rims.
 

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Getting these small tires off!

Had to break down several small tires at home that were old and cracking. I tried to use my front end loader on the edge near the bead and lifted my tractor front end off the ground. I have a 4044M so not to light of a weight on the tire sides. No way could I bust the beads loose. Took my Saws All and cut around the sides of the tire on both sides and removed 75% of the tire. I tried using a chisel to and hammer to get under the bead with no luck. Then I had a idea took my 4" hand Grinder and cut into the bead carefully and ran into steel cables. When I cut thru those cables the bead popped open and I grabbed the tire with my vice and just pulled the rim away. Had 4 to do and got faster. Leave about 3 inches of bead and side wall to grab and cut the cable in the bead they almost fall of the rims at that point. Can't believe how strong a grip the cable put on the rim!
 

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I have that cheap tractor tire changer from Northern Tool. It's ok for up to 10" rims but 12s are murder.
 

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Interesting. I purchased a second set of rims and Carlisle R3 turf tires for use on one of my 1025Rs. The rear tires mounted up without issue. However, I had a heck of time getting the front tire bead to fully seat. I had a liberal coating of soapy water applied. I had a strap around the center. I even became desperate and resorted to methods I don't approve of, like starting fluid and acetylene gas. Finally, I applied moly EP grease to the bead and rim in lieu of soapy water and I was able to seat the bead fully with air pressure.

I was blaming Carlisle for moving the production of that tire to China and their common slop on production tolerances. Hopefully, I'll never to have to remove them, but if I do, I learned some tips for doing so.
 

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Tractor looks pretty new, what happened to the tires it came with?
I still have the R4s. They were hard on the new lawn and near the lake it tends to be soft. The turfs are much easier on it. Others have also reported the turfs are better in snow than the R4s, though I didn't have any issues with the R4s last winter----but we never received any deep snow, either.

I purchased another set of rims so I could keep the R4s mounted. I can re-install the R4s fairly quickly if I think I'm going to need them.

Having a spare on-hand prevents flats. When you have a spare, you never need it. When you don't, you always do.
 

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Got the new Kenda tires installed. I had to do the fronts by myself as the shop I went to couldn't get their mounting tool under the bead to get the old tires off. I got it done but not a fun job.

One item I noticed. To expedite things I used a set of Deere 10x6 rims (M139005) which I had. They are used on the X5x5, X728/729/749, and 2305/2210 and also called out for the 102x in the JD Parts Catalog. The tires mounted fine but I found you have to mount them with the valve stems pointing inward otherwise the rod ends from the tie rod assembly will rub. The stems are short necks and just clear the hub pieces. Maybe 3/8"

I see that JD also lists the LVA20123 as the replacement rim. I"m not sure how the valve stem works on those but just something to be aware of when mounting front tires or replacing the rims.
Looks good! What do you use the green handle on the rops for?
 

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I still have the R4s. They were hard on the new lawn and near the lake it tends to be soft. The turfs are much easier on it. Others have also reported the turfs are better in snow than the R4s, though I didn't have any issues with the R4s last winter----but we never received any deep snow, either.

I purchased another set of rims so I could keep the R4s mounted. I can re-install the R4s fairly quickly if I think I'm going to need them.

Having a spare on-hand prevents flats. When you have a spare, you never need it. When you don't, you always do.

That makes a lot of sense. And I agree when one has spares the one is use is less apt to have an issue. I have the turf tires and they indeed function in a vast areas of use. I like my choice.
 

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Having a spare on-hand prevents flats. When you have a spare, you never need it. When you don't, you always do.
Unless the outer circumference of the R4 and HDAP tires are identical, I don't think it would be advisable to mount one R4 with the other three tires being HDAP. Same with using HDAP as a spare. Your transmission and MFWD system won't like you. :)
 

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I still have the R4s. They were hard on the new lawn and near the lake it tends to be soft. The turfs are much easier on it. Others have also reported the turfs are better in snow than the R4s, though I didn't have any issues with the R4s last winter----but we never received any deep snow, either.

I purchased another set of rims so I could keep the R4s mounted. I can re-install the R4s fairly quickly if I think I'm going to need them.

Having a spare on-hand prevents flats. When you have a spare, you never need it. When you don't, you always do.
So true :thumbup1gif: :thumbup1gif: :thumbup1gif:
 
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