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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, Everyone!

I am looking at purchasing a rear blade primarily for snow removal. Some projects involving moving dirt or grading could come up.

I have been looking into the Heavy Hitch HHBB2: Back Plow Blade with 54" Snow Plow Blade but was wondering if anyone has used one and your experiences with it. (I am planning on buying the Offset Suitcase Weight Bracket)

My second option would be a rear blade from Woods (local dealer) or something similar: RBS60

What are the pros and cons to having one or the other, listed a few below:
  • The blade from Heavy hitch comes with a UHMW cutting edge, where a standard rear blade would be steel (would have to change out for rubber or UHMW for plowing driveways).
  • One would be 2" receiver mount the other would be 3 point.
Not sure which one to get.


Thank you!

Johnathan
 
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I don't know if one exists for compact tractors, but if I were to purchase a rear blade, I would want the offset function absolutely to be able to blade things in ditches and sidewalks off while keeping the tractor up on the solid flatter road without having to get a blade too wide for the tractor to utilize. Small tractors get bogged down easily.
 

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Looking at the HH
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Looks pretty light duty to me.
The Woods
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is a 3 pt setup and better built
Get the Woods
 

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I don't know if one exists for compact tractors, but if I were to purchase a rear blade, I would want the offset function absolutely to be able to blade things in ditches and sidewalks off while keeping the tractor up on the solid flatter road without having to get a blade too wide for the tractor to utilize. Small tractors get bogged down easily.
Ritter Bit will do shows an off set rear blade on his BX. The blade is orange. Not sure where he got it or what the make is. His will offset and angle plus looks like you can set it to tilt.
 

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One nice thing about the Heavy Hitch is it stores fairly compact. A three pint hitch rear blade takes up a bigger space to store. Something to think about if you don’t have storage room. I don’t see any weakness in the Heavy Hitch. Just remember theres some cheaply made three point rear blades out there too.
It will take up even less space after it is twisted up like a pretzel. 🙂
 

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It will take up even less space after it is twisted up like a pretzel. 🙂
I see quite a few pictures on here with people bending the 3 point hitch blades too. Not saying you can’t damage the Heavy Hitch rear blade either. Heavy Hitch seems too put out a good product. I guess someone will have to put the Heavy Hitch rear blade to the test.
 

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I see quite a few pictures on here with people bending the 3 point hitch blades too. Not saying you can’t damage the Heavy Hitch rear blade either. Heavy Hitch seems too put out a good product. I guess someone will have to put the Heavy Hitch rear blade to the test.
Oh for sure! In fact, the worst 3PH blades out there are the ones which use steel flats and angle iron for the 3PH frame. I had one of those on an old Ford 9N and caught the corner on a piece of pavement and it turned it into a pretzel. I replaced it with a Land Pride which has a solid 3PH frame and tower and a few years later I caught a piece of pavement again and it literally caused the tractor to get tossed sideways yet the rear blade was unharmed. :)
 

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If you bend either blade clearing snow, you are doing something very wrong.

I would focus on the following, when selecting a rear blade;
  • 3ph over sleeve style hitch for ease in lifting, plus being able to use the 3ph to create crowns in the dirt work projects.
  • Ability to add suitcase weights as close to the back of the tractor as possible for traction / ballast.
  • Easily adding a rubber scraper edge to the plow blade for snow removal.
  • Adjust ability in rear ballast amounts as 350 is usually the minimum rear ballast where as much as 800 pounds can be needed in the event of ice storms to maintain traction, snow clearing movement and machine steering ability.
  • Ballast is balance, so what you are using on the front of the machine to clear snow is going to determine the ballast needs on the rear of the machine.
  • You shouldn't need down force to clear snow. But you will need the down force for many dirt projects.
  • The ability to hang ballast forward on the rear blade would be good for traction.
  • While the ability to hang ballast over the blade cutting edge will be needed for some dirt work.
  • If you are going to be doing a lot of snow clearing, you are going to want to be able to change the blade angle often, ideally without getting off the seat, so either hydraulic or with actuator.
 
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I’ve always wanted the EA blade for it’s crazy adjustability.
 

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looked up the woods in 60" and the HH ,,they are both pretty much the same money within a few dollars so it would be your choice which way you would want to with your reasons
 

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I’ve always wanted the EA blade for it’s crazy adjustability.
That unit would be the one that I'd purchase if I were in the market. Checks all of the boxes. It even has a lifting eye that I put on all of my equipment. Makes moving stuff around a lot easier.
 

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That unit would be the one that I'd purchase if I were in the market. Checks all of the boxes. It even has a lifting eye that I put on all of my equipment. Makes moving stuff around a lot easier.
I was checking it out I thing about 1285 fir the 6 foot value blade. Does everything I wanted. Not sure if I want to pull the trigger. Nice to have some snow.
 

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I was checking it out I thing about 1285 fir the 6 foot value blade. Does everything I wanted. Not sure if I want to pull the trigger. Nice to have some snow.
What tractor do you have?
 

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I have one too. Mine struggles with a 5' land plane, a 6' blade in dirt I would think might be more than a 1025R wants. If you have the offset capability on a 5' blade, you'd have as much or even more off to either side of the tractor. A 6' would work fine for snow (I run a 6'6'' snow blade with more moldboard than a rear blade without any problems), But 6' of dirt engagement might be a little too much. Just my opinion. Hope you find the equipment you're looking for for your needs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Looking at the HH
Looks pretty light duty to me.
The Woods
is a 3 pt setup and better built
Get the Woods
Oh for sure! In fact, the worst 3PH blades out there are the ones which use steel flats and angle iron for the 3PH frame. I had one of those on an old Ford 9N and caught the corner on a piece of pavement and it turned it into a pretzel. I replaced it with a Land Pride which has a solid 3PH frame and tower and a few years later I caught a piece of pavement again and it literally caused the tractor to get tossed sideways yet the rear blade was unharmed. :)
If you bend either blade clearing snow, you are doing something very wrong.

I would focus on the following, when selecting a rear blade;
  • 3ph over sleeve style hitch for ease in lifting, plus being able to use the 3ph to create crowns in the dirt work projects.
  • Ability to add suitcase weights as close to the back of the tractor as possible for traction / ballast.
  • Easily adding a rubber scraper edge to the plow blade for snow removal.
  • Adjust ability in rear ballast amounts as 350 is usually the minimum rear ballast where as much as 800 pounds can be needed in the event of ice storms to maintain traction, snow clearing movement and machine steering ability.
  • Ballast is balance, so what you are using on the front of the machine to clear snow is going to determine the ballast needs on the rear of the machine.
  • You shouldn't need down force to clear snow. But you will need the down force for many dirt projects.
  • The ability to hang ballast forward on the rear blade would be good for traction.
  • While the ability to hang ballast over the blade cutting edge will be needed for some dirt work.
  • If you are going to be doing a lot of snow clearing, you are going to want to be able to change the blade angle often, ideally without getting off the seat, so either hydraulic or with actuator.
Thank you everyone for the recommendations and information! I have decided to go with a 3point Rear Blade. I looked into the EA 6 Way Deluxe Scrape Blade with a price of $1,056.91 (a little expensive). I did some looking around and Woods has the RBS60P ( which has the pivot, tilt and offset ). My local dealer wanted $870.00 +tax for a new one, only downside is it has a 160 day lead time. The woods RBS60 (just pivot) is in stock at $549 plus tax. Look at another dealer that sells Rhino Ag equipment they want $1,000 for a similar one. But the local dealer that sells Rhino Ag called today and said they just got a used 5ft Rhino utility rear blade (50 Series) in. The price tag is $450 + Tax. Needless to say I am purchasing the 5ft Rhino rear blade. I think this is a pretty good deal given the current prices and lead times.
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