Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
196 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've read various threads for both of these, but I added (on order actually) an offset Heavy Hitch to my goodies for my 1025R. I'll be using 70# weights as the 42# weights are no different then my sand filled box I have now. I'm sure there are readers that are thinking why not fill it with Portland (it's a one shot deal) or bricks of some sort to adjust the weight. I'm lazy and didn't want to load and unload the box when ever the front end loading requirements changed and didn't want to drag around unneeded weight. I felt using the Heavy Hitch with suit case weights allowed me to very simply (Not lean into the box and pry bricks out) add or delete weight as the job required (using the fel if needed) or drop the whole system off (I have an iMatch setup) and add weights as needed for the front mount. I have a FEL, but there are times when it's in the way and I'd like to drop it off. It seem to me a win/win however an expense one. Versility and my old age seemed to point me to this setup.

Thoughts and comments more then welcome
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,284 Posts
I am a new owner of a Heavy Hitch. For the past 7 years I've used my box blade if I needed extra ballast (2520 with loaded tires). I never liked the Deere ballast box because of how far it hangs out back. When I recently learned of the Heavy Hitch I knew that was what I wanted.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,044 Posts
As a maxed out ballast box user I have a silly question. I've read multiple threads that mention adding and removing weight from the ballast box to adjust for different loader duties. How exactly does one accomplish this? Is there a calculator somewhere?

How much rear ballast is required for a bucket of lime stone? Dirt? Cinder blocks? Concrete rubble? Or simply lifting a big boulder with your forks?

You immediately know that you don't have enough rear ballast when the rear wheels lift off the ground and/or you flip over. You know you have the right amount when you have the 700-800 lbs. recommended in the JD loader manual.

However, somewhere in between not enough ballast and the proper ballast is a big gray area where the rear wheels are not lifting off the ground but you are lifting loads that are putting undue stress on the front axle.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,593 Posts
As a maxed out ballast box user I have a silly question. I've read multiple threads that mention adding and removing weight from the ballast box to adjust for different loader duties. How exactly does one accomplish this? Is there a calculator somewhere?

How much rear ballast is required for a bucket of lime stone? Dirt? Cinder blocks? Concrete rubble? Or simply lifting a big boulder with your forks?

You immediately know that you don't have enough rear ballast when the rear wheels lift off the ground and/or you flip over. You know you have the right amount when you have the 700-800 lbs. recommended in the JD loader manual.

However, somewhere in between not enough ballast and the proper ballast is a big gray area where the rear wheels are not lifting off the ground but you are lifting loads that are putting undue stress on the front axle.
Jgayman,
You definitely bring up some very valid points. I have filled my box with bricks (700lbs) and have never felt the need to make adjustments. I use my box for not only loader work, but snow blowing and running the broom on both the 2305 and the 2520. I too, an not sure why anyone would feel the need to make any adjustments. :thumbup1gif:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
747 Posts
Having the ballast box hanging farther out gives better counter balance.
 

·
Read Only
Joined
·
1,932 Posts
I've read various threads for both of these, but I added (on order actually) an offset Heavy Hitch to my goodies for my 1025R. I'll be using 70# weights as the 42# weights are no different then my sand filled box I have now. I'm sure there are readers that are thinking why not fill it with Portland (it's a one shot deal) or bricks of some sort to adjust the weight. I'm lazy and didn't want to load and unload the box when ever the front end loading requirements changed and didn't want to drag around unneeded weight. I felt using the Heavy Hitch with suit case weights allowed me to very simply (Not lean into the box and pry bricks out) add or delete weight as the job required (using the fel if needed) or drop the whole system off (I have an iMatch setup) and add weights as needed for the front mount. I have a FEL, but there are times when it's in the way and I'd like to drop it off. It seem to me a win/win however an expense one. Versility and my old age seemed to point me to this setup.

Thoughts and comments more then welcome
Great minds think alike. I had the same dilemma. I ordered the Heavy Hitch to hold the 70 pound weights as well. I also can fit 16 weights on my Heavy Hitch at once. I use the 70 pound weights to offset the FEL and it works great. I also use the 70 pounders as weight for my aerator. I use the 42 pound weights on the front of the tractor to offset my tiller. For plowing snow I have all eight 42 pounders on. Haven't had a problem yet. My Heavy Hitch only comes off the tractor when I put the bagger on.

One question I do have for you. Do you currently own the 70 pound weights? If you have to buy them be prepared for sticker shock! My eight 70 pound suitcase weights cost $108.35 each. That was a hard pill to swallow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,626 Posts
I never thought the rear ballest box was ideal as it only does one things and that's add rear weight..... Beings I have a rear tiller and a brush hog mower the need for front ballest is also a concern. Well you can use the loader, but that adds length. Not ideal... So I got an Omni Transformer rear hitch and some 100# suitcase weights. For Christmas I asked for a Heavy Hitch front weight rack and 4 42# weights. Now I can use them on either the front or the rear of the tractor as needed. I like the flexability of this system. If I had plenty of space the rear ballest box wouldn't be a big deal as it's quick to hookup. Moving the weights around can be a hassle, but I need the exercise anyway. Picking up a 100# suitcase is a good reminder I need to work out more. :lol:

-636
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,593 Posts
I never thought the rear ballest box was ideal as it only does one things and that's add rear weight..... Beings I have a rear tiller and a brush hog mower the need for front ballest is also a concern. Well you can use the loader, but that adds length. Not ideal... So I got an Omni Transformer rear hitch and some 100# suitcase weights. For Christmas I asked for a Heavy Hitch front weight rack and 4 42# weights. Now I can use them on either the front or the rear of the tractor as needed. I like the flexability of this system. If I had plenty of space the rear ballest box wouldn't be a big deal as it's quick to hookup. Moving the weights around can be a hassle, but I need the exercise anyway. Picking up a 100# suitcase is a good reminder I need to work out more. :lol:

-636
The only problem I see with your set-up is when you get older. :mocking:
 
  • Like
Reactions: 636mullet

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,593 Posts
I never thought the rear ballest box was ideal as it only does one things and that's add rear weight..... -636
You again are correct oh great wise one. But, I am one to think inside the box. Here are some mods you can do to make it more functional. My Ballast Box Mods. Don't limit yourself, have an open mind and your possibilities are endless. And the frosting The final touch
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,626 Posts
You again are correct oh great wise one. But, I am one to think inside the box. Here are some mods you can do to make it more functional. My Ballast Box Mods. Don't limit yourself, have an open mind and your possibilities are endless. And the frosting The final touch
That's one thing I've learned now that I've found this site. When I was looking for a replacement for the 318 I know I stopped on this site a couple times trying to take in everything I could about the 1-Series and the X748/9's I was looking at, but it wasn't until after I got everything that I took up residence. :lol: For me having my dad offer up 4 100# suitcase weights made the choice a little easier also. I'm sure not everyone has that option in their back pocket..... With the Omni Transformer I got the optional carry-all rack that fits on top, but I find there are things that don't fit all that well and it doesn't get that much use. Most of the time I load the bucket up and just unload stuff once I get to where I want to work. I'm not sure what the credit for the ballest box was, but I think it was close to the cost of the Transformer. Granted the Ballest Box would have been part of my deal with John Deere, but still... When I do dirt work around my place I usually have the tiller and loader on the 1026R and the 318 has the blade and pulls my harrow and roller. I still use a rake to finish stuff, but that keeps my hand tool needs pretty low. And yes, I'm super glad I kept the 318 for these kinds of things! To me that's what makes these tractors so great. For every person there's a configuration that fits them best. :thumbup1gif: Nice work on the ballest box by the way! I'm a big fan of the decals as they add a nice touch. That's why I went with the Shark teeth/mouth decal on my blade when I added the side wings. Something about making it your own I guess.


-636
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,636 Posts
As a maxed out ballast box user I have a silly question. I've read multiple threads that mention adding and removing weight from the ballast box to adjust for different loader duties. How exactly does one accomplish this? Is there a calculator somewhere?

How much rear ballast is required for a bucket of lime stone? Dirt? Cinder blocks? Concrete rubble? Or simply lifting a big boulder with your forks?
You immediately know that you don't have enough rear ballast when the rear wheels lift off the ground and/or you flip over. You know you have the right amount when you have the 700-800 lbs. recommended in the JD loader manual.

However, somewhere in between not enough ballast and the proper ballast is a big gray area where the on the rear wheels are not lifting off the ground but you are lifting loads that are putting undue stress front axle.
JGAYMAN ; well u could also know when you don't have the correct ballast for loader work is when (u end up with bent front rims):cry: :laugh: big jim
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
196 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Best cost I could find for JD 70# suit case weights

cheesetrain... I agree if you buy the weights from mother Deere you pay a small fortune. I found a company that sell them at $75.00. So I bought 8 with freight charge of $190.00. Stii hurt, but better then paying almost a grand to the other dealers I found
tractorpartsasap
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top