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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New member here and decided to join after just beginning my search into subcompact tractors. I've wanted one for a few years, but struggled to justify the price, as I've been getting by with my old Wheel Horse garden tractor and my Cub Cadet lawn tractor on my property that's a little over an acre. Really, the tractor would have been useful for a couple years now as we've been hit with EAB and have been working on removing the dead ash trees from my property. We started with 86, and have about 20 left to go. We also have added a greenhouse, expanded the garden, and gotten a small flock of chickens.
In the future, we are looking into possibly getting a PTO stump grinder as opposed to paying someone to come grind stumps for us.
We are planning on extending the garden once more, adding more chickens, doing landscaping (redo the paver patio, add a gazebo, fire pit, and maybe a small koi pond), and planting a bunch more fruit trees. Right now, we have pear, apple, and peach.

Things I would like to be able to do:
Move mulch, stone,sand, etc around my property so a loader is important. I'd also like to be able to use the loader to unload or load heavier objects in the back of my truck so I don't always have to ask a neighbor for help.
Add and maintain an in ground garden
Post hole digger for fence posts and probably to use to plant trees. (We will plant probably 30-40 trees)
Move logs/help with firewood processing
Use PTO to grind stumps
I will probably use for snow removal as well. I have a 38" walk behind snow blower, soI would probably start with just a bucket.
I would love a grapple and a backhoe, butI probably won't get those due to expense. I will likely rent a mini excavator when it comes time to dig the koi pond, then use the tractor for everything else.
I'll also pull my utility trailer and splitter around my property.
I probably won't use it to mow as I have a nice lawn tractor and would just assume to put the $3k for a deck towards a zero turn when I'm ready to replace the cub.

I stopped and looked at a 1025R and then went to the Massey dealer and looked at a GC1725M. Both were nice. I felt the JD was more comfortable, but I liked how quickly the MF could move the hydraulics. I haven't really looked closely at specs, but I felt both would probably do what I want. Surprisingly the MF was only $500 less than the JD and the JD dealer is way closer (about 11 miles).
I was thinking about looking at Kubota and maybe LS or TYM, but those dealers are all farther away.
Is there anything I should be looking at or asking about when I'm looking? I just want to make sure I cover my bases.
 

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Welcome from Central Ohio
 

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Sounds well thought out!

Don't forget a ballast box or suitcase weights and 3 point weight bracket in your plans. You need counter weight for loader work.
 

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Welcome to GTT
 

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Welcome from NW NJ.
Sounds like the 1025R would fit the bill perfectly. When I bought mine, I went ahead and financed the backhoe in the deal. I ended up using it WAY more than I thought, especially if you add a thumb. Also, I use my grapple a ton. Logging, removing brush, carrying large landscape rocks. If I were to rent anything, it would be the post hole digger. I have used mine twice for deck and shed footings and now it sits in the garage.
 

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Welcome to GTT from Illinois.

These are a goodly chunk of change, no question. But as I got older, I realized I need more help around the yard. Tractor has been worth it to me.

Your reasoning above is sound. Decide what you want a tractor for, look at the implements needed, visit a couple dealers. Good dealer is important!

Jimmy W just above is right - at least get some ballast with it, because you might want to move a hunk of tree trunk first.

Some implements are merely pulled, like a rake. But some require power too - like a tiller also hooks up to your rear PTO. You need to then look at how much pto horsepower the tractor can provide. For example (I don't know the exact specs off the top of my head) if you want a 72" tiller, I'd guess a 1025 would not provide enough pto hp, and the weight of it might be near the 3point lift capacity too.

So 1025 might be all you need, and long as you size your implements accordingly, and be prepared to take a bit longer to finish a project.

Higher HP tractor is generally faster, but $$ goes up. Like a boat or motorcycle, many fellows here find after a couple years perhaps more hp would be nice.

Extras: For me, I found forks are very handy. + Other stuff to care for grass. You (title says WNY) - might want snow handling equip, perhaps a pusher, or blower? Grapple for brush etc.

good luck with what your choose - keep us informed
 

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Welcome from Preston County, West Virginia
 

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Welcome from west central Wisconsin.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sounds well thought out!

Don't forget a ballast box or suitcase weights and 3 point weight bracket in your plans. You need counter weight for loader work.
Welcome to GTT from Illinois.

These are a goodly chunk of change, no question. But as I got older, I realized I need more help around the yard. Tractor has been worth it to me.

Your reasoning above is sound. Decide what you want a tractor for, look at the implements needed, visit a couple dealers. Good dealer is important!

Jimmy W just above is right - at least get some ballast with it, because you might want to move a hunk of tree trunk first.

Some implements are merely pulled, like a rake. But some require power too - like a tiller also hooks up to your rear PTO. You need to then look at how much pto horsepower the tractor can provide. For example (I don't know the exact specs off the top of my head) if you want a 72" tiller, I'd guess a 1025 would not provide enough pto hp, and the weight of it might be near the 3point lift capacity too.

So 1025 might be all you need, and long as you size your implements accordingly, and be prepared to take a bit longer to finish a project.

Higher HP tractor is generally faster, but $$ goes up. Like a boat or motorcycle, many fellows here find after a couple years perhaps more hp would be nice.

For me, I found forks are very handy. + Other stuff to care for grass. You (title says WNY) - might want snow handling equip, perhaps a pusher, or blower? Grapple for brush etc.

good luck with what your choose - keep us informed

I didn't mention this previously, but I was looking at either a ballast box or loading the rear tires. I might do both, but am unsure what is really needed. I asked the JD dealer about rim guard, and they don't do it themselves but will have a local company come load the tires. They said if they can line up several tractors at once it would run about $300 otherwise it would be about $500 if they don't have multiple tires to fill at once. I forgot to ask about loading the rear tires at the MF dealer, but they are very close to the tire dealer the JD dealer said they use so I could even drive the tractor down the road to have the tires loaded. I could probably just remove the rear wheels and throw them in my truck and bring them to be loaded to save $. I'd then have heavy tires to unload, but I could probably manage. I'm not sure how heavy the rear tire and wheel combo is before loading, but with help I'm sure I could get them out of my truck and back on the tractor.

I was looking at starting with a bucket and forks for the loader, a 4' tiller and post hole digger and then possibly a ballast box. I don't need a stump grinder until I get the rest of the trees down and I believe I have 17 left to go. With my schedule I'm thinking they will likely all wait until spring. I think it would really come down to the expense of a grapple as it would be really nice, but I'm not sure I could swing it right away, so I might start with forks and then see how much I could do with forks and if I found myself needing a grapple more often.

For snow removal, I am thinking about looking at a pusher, but I was also considering trying some skids for the bucket to see how well that would work. I'm actually in a pocket that surprisingly does not get a ton of snow, but we would get dumped on when I lived 20 minutes away. I have a 38" walk behind snow blower that works well, but I only use it a few times a year. I mostly find myself just shoveling as it feels unnecessary to fire up the snow blower for an inch or two of snow. I've also run into instances where the snow blower can cause damage if I'm not careful as I don't have anywhere to really blow it when clearing my courtyard since all 4 sides have something there (greenhouse, garage, house, neighbor) I think I will look at a pusher as that would likely be easier than a plow or bucket.

Welcome from NW NJ.
Sounds like the 1025R would fit the bill perfectly. When I bought mine, I went ahead and financed the backhoe in the deal. I ended up using it WAY more than I thought, especially if you add a thumb. Also, I use my grapple a ton. Logging, removing brush, carrying large landscape rocks. If I were to rent anything, it would be the post hole digger. I have used mine twice for deck and shed footings and now it sits in the garage.
To add a thumb would you need to add an additional outlet on the back? I was looking at adding the 3rd function up front for a grapple and was told it adds about $1k to the cost. I'm assuming it would be similar for the rear? Honestly, I would love to just get the backhoe as well and I do think if I had it I would use it, but I also think that $ would go a long way towards other implements I know I would use quite a bit. I was wondering if the small backhoes could be used to dig out a stump. I know for stump removal most people will either grind them or dig them out. Not sure what would be better. I've got about 85 stumps to remove. Half are probably 16-24" diameter and there are a good number in the 6-14" range. I've taken an axe to a couple and it works, but I can't see doing this to all of them. 😅
 

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IMO, Rim guard is nice: It puts extra weight very low, less stress on your frame + lowers your center of gravity. Lots of guys on GTT use it.
BUT - you can't take it off. If it rained a day or two ago, my yard will be soft, so if I need to mow, less weight is better because I don't want to sink / leave ruts. I can easily drop the ballast box or suitcase weights, and be as light as possible.
Ballast has been discussed many times here, you can search for posts. Start with this one:
(108) John deere 1025R Ballast Amount Recommended, Axle Capacity, Tire Capacity | Green Tractor Talk

If you don't get tons of snow, then a blade or pusher would likely be fine. Or continue with your blower. My drive is maybe 150' and I use a 24" walk behind blower, I get a few snows, rarely over 12" at once.

There's a user here: SulleyBear who moves alot of snow every winter with a 1025, and I think he prefers a blade? perhaps he'll chime in.....

Stump grinder is kind of a single use tool. With a back hoe you can pop your stumps out, and it might be handy for other tasks: bury elec wire, pipe, drains, plant trees to replace your ash's.
While it's not super powerful, it sure beats digging by hand. 6 to 14" range stump might be anywhere from couple hours to 5 or 6 if it's a mean one. Doubt if I'd even attempt a 14" stump by hand.
Just a month ago I did a driveway change, dug a pie shaped wedge about 12' on the long leg, 6' short leg, and 6" deep. Took maybe an hour. Filled it with gravel. By hand would have been all day for me, and I would have been sore for 2-3 days.
 

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Welcome from Arizona!
We have to agree with the other users here. The 1025R would be a great machine for you. As far as John Deere models go, it is pretty cost-effective and very capable for a sub-compact tractor!
 

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Welcome from Ontario, Canada. As its been mentioned, these machines are pretty pricey but if you buy one and all of the implements/attachments that you think you'll need when you buy the tractor you can roll the whole thing into one monthly payment at 0% financing, if its still available. do the rest of the other dealers you mentioned offer similar deals? I'm in a similar situation with EAB killed trees. I leave about 3 ft of trunk for leverage, dig around the base as best I can with the BH, cut any roots too big to break with the BH with a reciprocating saw, then use a 3,000# UTV winch attached to the base of another tree and winch it until it breaks free. A 4 ton come-along works well too.
 
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Welcome to GTT from NW Ct.
 

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I have a NEW HLA 60" snow pusher for sale at a very good price. It has the back drag blade installed. Never been used.

I live in upstate New York and am willing to meet half-way.
 
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Welcome to Gtt from the Mitten
 

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Welcome! I am in WNY also and have had my new 1025r for about 3 months now and love it. It is A LOT of tractor for 1 acre, but it sounds like you have a lot going on, and I'm sure it would serve you well. I decided to buy a stump bucket from GWT for under $1000 and it is incredibly effective vs. tying up 7-8 grand on a back hoe that would sit in the barn most of the time. For anyone who is planning to mow with their SCUT, JD is really the only way to go with the full autoconnect MMM, but it sounds like you won't be doing that, so the discount brands may also be good options for you. Watch some youtube videos of people taking their MMM on and off of other brands...pretty brutal. I had my tires loaded at the dealer, and i cheaped out with a Vevor ballast box because ground clearance isn't an issue for me, and they are VERY cost effective, while not at the top of the quality scale by any means (FYI - they are the wrong green too, but i'm not fussy). Final note, the Yanmar in this tractor will be MUCH louder at PTO RPMs than what you are used to with your current machines, and the IsoTunes over the ear bluetooth sound cancelling headphones have been great for me. Good luck with your decision!
 
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