Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Alright folks so the assumptions are this, I have a gravel driveway with a steep incline. When vehicles go up it without enough speed, it chatters the gravel causing undulations (washboard effect). I want an implement that can quickly grade this back to level. My options seem to be a box blade or a land plane. I have a 1025r tractor. What says you?

driveway.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,245 Posts
For that short driveway I would just get a good back blade to do it. A box blade would work great but you can do lot of other things with a rear blade too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,521 Posts
If I had just one task (driveway maintenance) I would probably get the land plane, I recently went through the same decision but I opted for the box blade because I have more then just driveway maintenance in mind for mine. Hope this helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Box blade or land plane

Well its a little deceiving, I have a rear blade and it doesn't work very well. Moves too much material and goes outside the blade itself. I think I am going with the 60" land plane so we will see what happens.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
200 Posts
I have a 48” Land Pride plane and it’s all my 1025r wants going up a steep hill. Last time I used it on a steep driveway I lost traction and had to raise it some. I had a EA 54” box blade that I sold to purchase the land plane, I like the land plane better for driveways but I’m not sure I would get a 60”


‘17 1025r w/FEL
(2) 80 JD carts
18 JD cart
Land Pride 4’ land plane
Land Pride 1258 tiller
Land Pride FDR 1660
Frontier ss1023 broadcast spreader
Victory EF155 flail mower
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Hey MowJoe! Did you have the FEL on and any weights? Wheels weights?

I may try mower deck, FEL and wheel weights. See what we get out of that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,688 Posts
I don't know if using the mower deck will be of much help for ballast. And for the price JD wants for parts to repair things, I'd rather not challenge it. I always take the mower off when I need to pull my box blade.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
200 Posts
Hey MowJoe! Did you have the FEL on and any weights? Wheels weights?

I may try mower deck, FEL and wheel weights. See what we get out of that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes I had the FEL on and I run the cast wheel weights on the rears.


‘17 1025r w/FEL
(2) 80 JD carts
18 JD cart
Land Pride 4’ land plane
Land Pride 1258 tiller
Land Pride FDR 1660
Frontier ss1023 broadcast spreader
Victory EF155 flail mower
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
739 Posts
If you're plan is to pull a grading scraper/land plane up a hill, you might want to consider the 48" variety. I have a LandPride GS0560, that's their "lighter weight" 60" scraper, and it's all I can do to pull it on a level driveway with my 1025r. No rear wheel weights but loaded tires and my 250 pounds on the seat. The problem isn't so much traction as it is power to pull it.

I think my problem is that the cutting edges on the GS0560 are not adjustable. There are other GS's with either adjustable blades or cutting depth controlled by the runners. I need to try it again and turn my top link a little tighter so the GS sits with the rear raised a tiny bit. The gravel seem to want to pile up rather than spill over that second blade...

DSCF9068.JPG



If that doesn't do the job, there's always the trusty old bed spring....

DSCF8121 - Copy.jpg
 

·
Fit Rite Hydraulics
Joined
·
641 Posts
If you're plan is to pull a grading scraper/land plane up a hill, you might want to consider the 48" variety. I have a LandPride GS0560, that's their "lighter weight" 60" scraper, and it's all I can do to pull it on a level driveway with my 1025r. No rear wheel weights but loaded tires and my 250 pounds on the seat. The problem isn't so much traction as it is power to pull it.

I think my problem is that the cutting edges on the GS0560 are not adjustable. There are other GS's with either adjustable blades or cutting depth controlled by the runners. I need to try it again and turn my top link a little tighter so the GS sits with the rear raised a tiny bit. The gravel seem to want to pile up rather than spill over that second blade...

View attachment 636482



If that doesn't do the job, there's always the trusty old bed spring....

View attachment 636484
Don't shorten the top link, lengthen it. You want the front cutting edge to cut less than the rear cutting edge. I'm not sure how the 3pt works on the 1000 series, but if you can just let the LPGS down to just rest on the ground. Do not put the hitch down all the way.

See how that works for you.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
249 Posts
LP vs BB

My gravel driveways are on pretty flat ground and I have a 1025R. I have both the LP1160 and the Heavy Frontier 48" BB (not the lighter one). A valuable addition that really pays off is the Fit-Rite Hydraulics Top and Tilt kit so you can maintain the crown of your drive and easily control the "bite" of the blade - this is true with your back blade, the BB, the LP, and many other implements. This kit makes working adjustments to your blade/ground engagements simple and quick.

If I had just the driveway to do, the LP would be my choice - with the Top and Tilt kit.

I worked the BB for about 4 months before adding the Top and Tilt. The kit cut my workload by at least a third. I wouldn't be without it now.

I've never used a back blade, but I had the BB before getting the LP. The BB requires more practice and more passes, but it'll do more jobs (backfill, etc) and it's less expensive. The LP does the driveways quicker with less practice, but it costs more money. I would have kept using just the BB, but I found a deal on a slightly used Frontier LP1160 for $650 that was only 35 miles away. Now I'm convinced that the LP is the right tool for my driveways, especially with the Top and Tilt to accurately control the slope and grade as I work.

Regarding the 1025 being able handle the implements: take your time, use front ballast, use 4wd, don't take full bites. Smaller cuts into the soil and gravel mean fewer big mistakes, too, and that means less time fixing screwups. YMMV
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,148 Posts
Interesting thread, I just brought a slightly used. Land Pride GS0560, going to run behind the ex3200.
Will let you know how it goes.....do I see a top and tilt in my future:gizmo:
Do have rear remotes......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Thanks guys! I am going to get the Frontier LP1160 used so later today or tomorrow will be experiment time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,312 Posts
Well its a little deceiving, I have a rear blade and it doesn't work very well. Moves too much material and goes outside the blade itself. I think I am going with the 60" land plane so we will see what happens.
I have a land plane for my driveway and it works really well. Mine goes up a hill as well but not as steep as yours looks. You can use a land plane for other tasks as well, like leveling your yard. However, you will not move as much dirt per pass as a box blade. Both have their places. The bonus of a land plane is they are stupid simple to work, just mount it on the 3 point and drop it on the ground and go. It's doesn't require any particular skill to make a driveway look really nice. A box blade requires a bit of skill and patience, at least for me.

If you are putting it behind a 1 series I would not go any bigger than a 60 inch. They are not light so you might be taxing your hitch and the 1 series has a somewhat limited lift height anyways. Your tractor will be able to pull it just fine on a driveway. If you are trying to move dirt, it might struggle. They are not cheap compared to a box blade but you get what you pay for. If having a nice useable drive is important to you then it justifies the cost.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,669 Posts
My gravel driveways are on pretty flat ground and I have a 1025R. I have both the LP1160 and the Heavy Frontier 48" BB (not the lighter one). A valuable addition that really pays off is the Fit-Rite Hydraulics Top and Tilt kit so you can maintain the crown of your drive and easily control the "bite" of the blade - this is true with your back blade, the BB, the LP, and many other implements. This kit makes working adjustments to your blade/ground engagements simple and quick.
I started a thread https://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/implements-attachments/172982-researching-hydraulic-top-link-1025r-tractor-loader-backhoe.html#post3036184 trying to determine if a TnT was worthwhile for me. Net result seemed to indicate not a whole lot of reason for one with a LP or rock rake. But since you actually have & use one, I'm all ears again. Would it be possible to get pic of valve setup wrt seat/operator positioning? Did you have to remove toolbox? Still trying to determine if it'd be worthwhile getting a BB if one has the LP & rock rake. Hoping this info would be helpful to OP too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Update- used the 60” Frontier LP1160 on my driveway. It takes a little to finesse it and I can see where a quick adjust upper link could help. I had the FEL on with maybe 100lbs in it and no wheel weights. The only time is slipped up hill was when the plane was full but I should have never had it to that point just trying to level. One guy said make sure the front is not in too much and that is absolutely correct or it loads up too quick.


I think one of my main problems was too much gravel so i pulled some off.

It was not setup for the quick hitch so that is next step. I want to be able to grab this thing and within 20min has it sorted.

Thanks for all the advice and I will update as I get better with it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top