Green Tractor Talk banner

HELP - JD lawn/garden tractors i dont know

4K views 33 replies 18 participants last post by  69project 
#1 · (Edited)
Hey guys. Im done swapping attachments and the drive over mowerd deck to mow my 2 acre lawn on the 1025r. I use the TLB too much and my time is of the essence. I want an alternate tractor to just mow the lawn and maybe put a snow plow on. I know all the LX, GX, X and older 200, 300 400+ are great. But am not familiar with the LT, D, E series. Wich ones of those are crap and the home depot type so i stay clear of them. Ive owned a LX176 and 170, and 112. I Want to up the 176. And stay around 2k.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#2 ·
I know what you mean. They say it takes 30 seconds, but taking off the other implements, or just mowing with them on can be a pain. Since owning my tractor, I’ve only mowed once without a loader or anything on it besides the mmm. My optimum workforce eventually will be upgrading to a 2 series and getting a used mower for the lawn. I’m in the same boat you’re in and don’t know which is the best. If I had a pile of money, I’d have a X758 or X590 to mow, but 2 grand you might look on Craigslist.
 
#3 ·
A coworker was buying a new 2520 a few years back when he saw the price for the MMM he ended up spending the $2500 on a commercial eXmark zero turn that was traded in from a landscaper. In his case he knew the landscaper so he told him which one to buy but for the price of the MMM, he got a commercial zero turn that is way faster. With 2 acres, I would consider something like that over something like the box store LX or other small rider. Keep the 1025R for plowing and other TLB work.
 
#4 ·
If the snow plow is a “nice to have” but not absolutely required for the second machine, I would cast a second vote for getting a zero turn mower. I cut a 3 acre lawn and the time went from 3 hours on my 1025 to 1.5 hours on my 60” ZTR.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I have a 2038R for tractor work and X758 for mowing around 2 to 3 acres. Could have went zero turn but I use my lawn tractor for pulling wagons and garden work, didn’t want to lose that. Just got my 2038 back from the dealer yesterday. I bent the loader stand taking off the loader. I had 2 months of warranty left or it would have cost me almost 500 dollars for a new stand and labor to pull the broken bolts. I agree, taking off your loader and mower deck all the time is a pain, but I also think it ups the odds of bending or breaking something. Now, if you have limited space, or limited money to put towards tractors, that’s a different story. One machine for everything fits a lot of people.
 
  • Like
Reactions: glc
#6 ·
Thanks for the replies guys. I was considering a zero turn. But seeing that descent ones are close to 3K in my area im shying away from them. Plus you can only mow with them. My mowable grass area is probly closer to 1.5 acres since 2 is the total property. It took about 35 mins to mow with the 54” mmm. Also i would use the tractor for towing around my trailer and other yard work along with 1025r. I have a snow blower for the 1025 but when its a light snow or slush i usually have to swap to the bucket to scrape that stuff. Another tractor with a plow would be ideal.
I know the D series were Home Depot brands. But what about the LT and E? Id prefer a Kawasaki motor like the one my old LX had. No offense to anyone. I just want something better built to last.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: glc
#8 ·
Thanks for the replies guys. I was considering a zero turn. But seeing that descent ones are close to 3K in my area im shying away from them. Plus you can only mow with them. My mowable grass area is probly closer to 1.5 acres since 2 is the total property. It took about 35 mins to mow with the 54” mmm. Also i would use the tractor for towing around my trailer and other yard work along with 1025r. I have a snow blower for the 1025 but when its a light snow or slush i usually have to swap to the bucket to scrape that stuff. Another tractor with a plow would be ideal.
I know the D series were Home Depot brands. But what about the LT and E? Id prefer a Kawasaki motor like the one my old LX had. No offense to anyone. I just want something better built to last.

The current E1xx machines are a continuation of the "Home Depot" level machines. I think that line started with the L1xx machines back in the early 2000s and continued with the G1xx. LA1xx, D1xx machines until the E1xx came out last year. The L1xx series ended in 2005 and the LA1xx series started in 2007. In between there they had one year (2006) where Deere released 1xx series machines that were just the 1XX numbering. No "L" or "D". They just had the 102/115/125/135/145/155 numbering.

The LT, GT and GX series machines came out in the 1990s into the early 2000s so there was overlap between the later LT/GT machines and the early L1xx machines. The LT/GT/GX machines would be more along the level of the current S240/X300 series machines. I *think* the LT series is what replaced the older LX series you are familiar with.
 
  • Like
Reactions: glc and t2timmy
#10 · (Edited)
I have an LT160 that came from a JD dealer. The one thing I specifically recall is that the LT160 has a more robust frame than that of the comparable model JD available from Lowe's at the time. I can't recall the Lowe's exact model designation, but it wasn't an LT series.

Edit: The Lowe's model was a Sabre.
 
  • Like
Reactions: glc
#12 ·
The big box store machines are the same ones the dealers sell. I will tell you you'll get MUCH better support if you buy from your local dealer. Even though JD will do warranty work, they will put you on the back burner if it's a home depot machine. At least that's how it works around here.

It's my understanding these economy machines have light duty trans axles and are not designed for heavy towing. If you're just mowing and other light duty stuff it should be fine. A buddy of mine has a D160 and he likes it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: glc
#14 ·
They are also sealed and not serviceable.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 12dbsinad and glc
#15 ·
Hey guys. Im done swapping attachments and the drive over mowerd deck to mow my 2 acre lawn on the 1025r. I use the TLB too much and my time is of the essence. I want an alternate tractor to just mow the lawn and maybe put a snow plow on. I know all the LX, GX, X and older 200, 300 400+ are great. But am not familiar with the LT, D, E series. Wich ones of those are crap and the home depot type so i stay clear of them. Ive owned a LX176 and 170, and 112. I Want to up the 176. And stay around 2k.
I got tired of musical implements back in 1988.
I would suggest...

Land vehicle Vehicle Riding mower Mower Lawn mower


...and leaving snow plowing duties to the 1025R.
 
#16 ·
I got tired of musical implements back in 1988.
I would suggest...

View attachment 705970

...and leaving snow plowing duties to the 1025R.
Yeah I agree. You don't need to go with a big Z9xx mower. They are great but even a small one would be the route I would go over a small tractor. I wanted a collection system which drove me up to a big one. I didn't want to put the mower and collection system on the X just for the fall cleanup. I also wanted to position myself to move up to a bigger tractor that may not have the ability (3025E).
 
#17 ·
All great ideas guys! I just like “tractors”. Lol. If i said trailer then my bad. I meant a lawn cart. I used my LX176 with snow blower and plow for over 10 years. Setup right with chains theyre perfectly capable. My driveway is pretty flat and not super huge and long. Maybe il put a plow on the 1025 in the future. We get a lot of tiny snow storms here and the 1025 is overkill for them. I havent completely ruled out a zero turn. I just know i would make use out of another lawn/garden tractor. I have an old 112 with a beat motor. I often wish it was running sometimes to do smaller jobs that the 1025 is overkill for.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: glc
#18 ·
All great ideas guys! I just like “tractors”. Lol. If i said trailer then my bad. I meant a lawn cart. I used my LX176 with snow blower and plow for over 10 years. Setup right with chains theyre perfectly capable. My driveway is pretty flat and not super huge and long. Maybe il put a plow on the 1025 in the future. We get a lot of tiny snow storms here and the 1025 is overkill for them. I havent completely ruled out a zero turn. I just know i would make use out of another lawn/garden tractor. I have an old 112 with a beat motor. I often wish it was running sometimes to do smaller jobs that the 1025 is overkill for.
https://r2manufacturing.com/


 
  • Like
Reactions: glc
#19 ·
If you want to plow with a 2wd garden tractor you need a lot of ballast. For $2000 a 425 is probably the best option. I would stick with a driveshaft tractor as the change from mowing to plowing is a whole lot easier.
 
  • Like
Reactions: t2timmy
#20 ·
I've always heard that if you want to do towing and ground engaging, look for a tractor that the wheels are bolted on instead of using a key. That will right away give a visual clue to the strength of the transaxle.
 
#21 ·
True. But check the hubs VERY carefully. You might even want to check the parts breakdown. The X500 series hubs look all beefy with 5 lug bolts but if you check the illustrated parts that beefy hub is attached to the axle with a simple square key. Makes you wonder, eh?
 
  • Like
Reactions: glc and jimmylh
#22 ·
Here is what I was talking about. Top of the line X590. Nice beefy 5-lug rear hub - or so you think. Nope. Smooth axle connected to beefy hub by a single square key. You have to jump up to a X700-series to get a splined axle/hub assy.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: Gizmo2 and KennyP
#23 ·
Well anyhow, I have a D160. I would only mow or tow a light weight cart or yard sweeper with it. I don't like to use my 1025 over my septic tank while mowing so I switch off over that area.
 
#25 ·
The axle, splined or keyed, is always more than strong enough to turn the wheel without shearing the key or splines. The reason for the bolted wheel to hub is because you have moved to a larger wheel/tire combination. A good rule of thumb to follow is the larger the tire, the more capable the transmission. A good example is the 24x12-12 tires on the X500 series which uses the K72, which is a great transmission very capable of ground engaging work. My 580 was a beast with wheels that could not be stopped, even when forward motion was stopped. I've moved to the X738 now, and that has 26" wheel/tires, and as rated by Tufftorq for that size wheel, a K90 transmission. And if the 580 is a beast, the 738 is Godzilla.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gizmo2
#26 ·
The axle, splined or keyed, is always more than strong enough to turn the wheel without shearing the key or splines. The reason for the bolted wheel to hub is because you have moved to a larger wheel/tire combination. A good rule of thumb to follow is the larger the tire, the more capable the transmission. A good example is the 24x12-12 tires on the X500 series which uses the K72, which is a great transmission very capable of ground engaging work. My 580 was a beast with wheels that could not be stopped, even when forward motion was stopped. I've moved to the X738 now, and that has 26" wheel/tires, and as rated by Tufftorq for that size wheel, a K90 transmission. And if the 580 is a beast, the 738 is Godzilla.
That's interesting. Tuff Torq rates the maximum tire size for the K72 as 24-inch which is the size used on the X570. The E180 on the other hand, uses a K46 which has a maximum tire size of 20-inches even though JD uses 22-inch tires on the E180. The E180 uses a square key and just uses a snap-ring to secure the rear tire.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gizmo2 and glc
#27 ·
At first it bothered me that the wheels on my new X390 are keyed, and the tranny is the lesser K58! Then it dawned on me that there isn't anything to worry about with either! All I'm doing with it is cutting grass and this tractor is more than capable for a long time!
 
#28 ·
The worst part of keyed axles is when the key locks up/rusts on the axle and you cant get the wheel hub off to do any tire work. Happened to me on my LX176 and in trying to pry the wheel hub off i popped the axle right out of the trans. Required a trans case split/rebuild. I also had to torch and cut the wheel off the axle. No fun! I have pictures.. it really happened.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: glc
#29 ·
The worst part of keyed axles is when the key locks up/rusts on the axle and you cant get the wheel hub off to do any tire work. Happened to me on my LX176 and in trying to pry the wheel hub off i popped the axle right out of the trans. Required a trans case split/rebuild. I also had to torch and cut the wheel off the axle. No fun! I have pictures.. it really happened.
It's always a good idea whenever you get a new machine to pull the wheels and apply a little anti-seize compound. It only requires removing one E-clip. You will thank yourself years down the road.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gizmo2 and glc
#31 ·
The L, LA, D, E series, and even the S240, are/were derived from the Sabre/Scotts line that Deere made in their Greenville, Tennessee plant in the late 90s, early 2000s. These tractors are all made by Deere, but built in the Greenville plant, not the Horicon, Wisconsin plant that makes the X series, and about everything up to the X-series. The Sabre/Scotts lines owe a bit of their design to the STX series make in the late 80s and early 90s. Though made as entry level lawn tractors, and made a bit inferior to the other Deere offerings of that era, a lot of the STX tractors are still doing their job. The main drawback of those, and most Deere offerings of the 90s was the plastic hood hinge design.

The LT tractors were considered entry level that was made starting in 1998 and continued up to 2006 when the X300 series came out. Though entry level, the LTs were built in Horicon and was built on heavy duty frames that also had a good steering column support system, that the L, LA, D, E, S240 tractors do not. If I was looking at an older model LT versus a newer model L or LA, I would pick the LT any day. Just a better quality tractor and better built.
 
#32 · (Edited)
Sabre & Scott's Line Lawn tractor were actually a Black deck STX with a different Hood, Transmission,engine & Paint color Other Than that they were a Black deck STX.

The Sabre & Scott's Yard and Garden Tractors & JD G100 were Based On the GT242 thru GT275 again The Only real changes were Hood, Transmission, engine & Paint color and the Way the front Dozer Blade attached (Deere Had a cheaper Dozer Blade Produced for the Sabre & Scott's Yard & Garden tractors)

The Last year of the Sabre & Scott's BY JD Line of Lawn Tractor's were Produced On the Frame that Became the L100 thru E series & S240 Today :bigthumb:
 
  • Like
Reactions: glc
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top