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Am adding an LED light bar to the front of my 3032e (2018) and in looking for a place to tap into for power I find these two terminals right above the battery but there is no power to either terminal. I tested with the key on, with the light switch on, but there is no power. Has anyone found the answer as how to get power to these terminals and maybe found what they are intended for? Am thinking maybe that one has to add a fuse in the fuse block but that brings on another challenge as after adding the Curtis cab accessing the fuse block is next to impossible. It would be so easy to connect the light bar if only there were power to these terminals.
 

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Am adding an LED light bar to the front of my 3032e (2018) and in looking for a place to tap into for power I find these two terminals right above the battery but there is no power to either terminal. I tested with the key on, with the light switch on, but there is no power. Has anyone found the answer as how to get power to these terminals and maybe found what they are intended for? Am thinking maybe that one has to add a fuse in the fuse block but that brings on another challenge as after adding the Curtis cab accessing the fuse block is next to impossible. It would be so easy to connect the light bar if only there were power to these terminals.
I bought this incredibly easy light kit from Home Depot a few years ago. You connect the power to the battery, put an in-line fuse if you go directly to the battery. Power goes to a 1x3x3 inch box that glues to whatever is handy so it doesn't flop around, then you attach the led lights to the secondary wires coming out of the box. Everything is controlled by a little plug that goes into your cigarette lighter. When you aren't going to use the lights just turn them off, pull the controller out of the cig lighter, and put it somewhere handy. I don't know the draw on your light bar, or if the kit is still available, but it may be an option.
 

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I don't know what they're for, but one idea is that they don't have power because the other end is, say behind the dash, and needs a switch connected there first. I found that situation on my 1025.
 

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With my 3032E , behind the seat in the wiring harness were several connector's that had caps on them that I used for wiring up a set of aux lights that work with the light switch . Then when I added some extra fog lights on top of my sunshade I ran a wire from the battery to a addafuse then to a rocker switch that I put in beside my pto switch then to the lights . Pretty easy just time consuming figuring out a safe way to run the wire without any interference from something else . :thumbup1gif:
 

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As Steve O said, there are wires that are there from factory behind seat. When you rotate the light control knob all the way clockwise, the (I believe it is purple) wire becomes hot. I tapped into that with a plug connector, as the wires there already have plug connectors on them. No cutting or splicing. very clean. I did my roll bar lights and warning light that way and fished them through the existing holes in bar. I know it may be harder to fish a wire back up front from there, but I may suggest going with roll bar mount. Much better light distribution. I assume you have a loader so if you pick anything up, then lights up front are about useless. I like my 3032 but believe me, If I ever encounter a large sum of :gizmo: then I will trade it in for an R in a heartbeat. Lights are off in picture because well..... when they are on they will blind you.

IMG_3677.JPG
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Would have mounted the light bar on the ROPS bar but it appeared the roof of the Curtis cab would have blocked the forward lighting. I did mount the rear lights on the ROPS bar and found the connections for electrical hookup that are controlled by the light switch. Am still mystified as to getting power to the two factory connections that are right above the battery.
 

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In the 3038R catalog, they show a horn by the battery for the European edition, but I couldn't find the connectors. Maybe they are for that. With all the plastic up front, one connector might be a ground. If so, it looks like the switch goes in the dash, so the other end is going to be in the wiring harness behind the dash.
 

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So you are one of those CAB people......:thumbup1gif: I don't have much room to talk because my gator has a glass cab, and it doesn't get too cold or hardly ever snow in my part of the Carolinas. A sunshade would be nice though. I need to clean my tractor up and will take a look into those wires by battery. I want to install a horn anyway (I took one off of an old honda)
 
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