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Discussion Starter #1
I have tried to post this in tech. but it will not allow me to post it so I am putting it here. Engine starts an runs fine as long as brake is applied, when brake is released engine dies. I have jumpered seat switch an it has no effect, I have taped brake switch closed, an will operate ok but if mowing deck is engaged engine will die. I need some help please.
 

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The proper place to post is lawn and garden.Hopefully the mods will see it and move it.As for your question off the top of my head the 3 safety switches all work together to complete a loop (seat,pto,brake) then there are relays that close also on the right side.I can look at my tech manual for the troubleshooting steps when I get home from work.
 

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I looked at the manual for my X585 as I know it covers several models but it didn't cover the X595 even though they are the same generation. I took a glance at the schematics and a hunch would have me look at the PTO Interlock Module. There are several relay in there which I don't think are replaceable which might cause this.

Starting with the brake on is normal. I know I have to push in the brake to fire it up. The machine cutting off with the brake switch jumpered when the PTO engages sounds normal. I don't recall if it shuts down everything or just the PTO if the brake is set but I want to say you can't run the PTO with the brake set. I don't have any PTO attachments on my machine to test that though.

Sounds like someone has the X595 manual so I will wait to see if the test procedure helps narrow down the fault. I have the one for the X585 but it is talking about EFI modules in some of the tests which wouldn't apply. I would imagine most of the other stuff is about the same but don't want to send you down a wrong path.
 

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From what I read and looked at the electrical diagram the problem could be the brake switch.When the pedal is pushed in it also activates the RIO sw.The RIO is part of the pto circuit.I have a feeling the brake/rio switch is bad.
The purple wire 765 from from S6 brake sw to the S2 RIO sw must have power.From the S2 to the A2 control module (circuit board) is wire 705 pink/black must have power.A green led on A2 means all cranking circuit operating conditions are met and the circuit is functional.Check that out and let me know their are other things but that's the start.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok I put a new brake switch on it an still same problem, the green lite on circuit board is on an I start it an it stays on until I let out on the brake. lite goes out an engine dies. : next suggestion?
 

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I would pull and clean the interlock module (both sides), these boards get dirty and can cause issues, inspect for burnt traces and components, clean the connections.
 

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Did you check power on those wires I had posted before changing parts.
 

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Sure could use a wiring diagram
Just so I am clear exactly what your problem is, please respond if my assumptions are correct by indicating TRUE or FALSE and adding any additional explanations or clarifications for the rest of us to clearly understand your issue.

1. -Tractor will start and run with the brake pedal pushed down or locked in place with the parking brake.

2. - If you release the parking brake or release the brake pedal pressure, the tractor quits running.

3. - You taped down the brake switch closed and the tractor starts and operates but quits when the PTO switch is engaged.

Are these three correct? Please provide any additional details to help clarify the issues you are having.

Also, please clarify EXACTLY what you are seeing with the LED lights on the control panel module. Is the green light on when the tractor is running and not when it is not running? Is that what your comments were describing?

I think the problem is in the PTO switch / circuit. Is the PTO switch fully depressed and does the switch function correctly when you engage and disengage the switch? I understand the PTO itself is not operating, my question is does the switch function in the "SNap Up / Snap DOwn" operation like it always has?

I have a wiring diagram for a 455 which is a predecessor to your tractor. I would be surprised if there was much of a difference between the wiring for the 455 and the x595. While there are some variations in the components and schematic based upon early verses later serial numbers, I would imagine the later serial number schematic should be close enough to permit you to locate the issue.
 

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The following things keep the PTO from engaging on these diesel powered lawn tractors;

If the PTO switch is in the OFF position, the PTO should not function.

1. If the PTO is operating and the brake pedal is depressed, the PTO function will cease even with the PTO switch in the normal operating ON position.

2. If the operator leaves the tractor seat with the PTO operating, the PTO function will stop immediately as will the engine operation of the tractor assuming the seat switch has not been altered or intentionally bypassed or disabled.

3. If the engine temperature exceeds 230 degrees (reaches the red zone on the temp guage since no numeric values are displayed), the PTO will cease operating until the temperature returns to the normal range and the PTO switch is turned off and then turned back on into the operating position.
When the PTO becomes disengaged due to the excessive coolant temperature, the glow plus light on the dash will illuminate........
 

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You also need a 12 volt tester to see if there is voltage at the various components. For example,

Assuming the following;

A. PTO Switch on dash is in off position. Make sure there is not debris preventing the switch from properly turning on and off. I have seen this a number of times where the switch was stuck between the on and off positions due to dust and debris.

B. Brake pedal released

C. Seat switch depressed or jumper wire in place


Follow color coding in words. Test points in blue, What is NORMAL is in Purple and If Not Normal, what to check is in green. I tried to put it in organized columns and the software kept shifting everything and turning it into a jumbled mess. By color was the only way I could distinguish the items. :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::nunu::nunu::nunu:

Test/ Check Point Normal If Not Normal
1. Battery positive terminal 11.8 to 13.2 volts Test battery

2. Hold in and PTO LED (Under dash) LED Lights illuminated Lights off- check relay engagement circuit step 3

3. Seat switch and control/ fuse Battery Voltage Check power circuit test points from dash panel
module terminal number 6, engine module.
high temperature relay terminal 85
and dash panel module number 14


4. Seat Switch Battery Voltage Test Seat Switch

5. Control/ fuse module terminal A Battery Voltage Check 800 Pink Wire

TEST THE FOLLOWING WITH THE KEY SWITCH IN THE OFF POSITION

6. Control / fuse module Terminal D Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance check battery ground cable, cable connections
100 and 130 black wires in harness


7. PTO Solenoid Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance Check 115 black wire

8. Dash Panel Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance Check 135 black wire
 

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You also need a 12 volt tester to see if there is voltage at the various components. For example,

Assuming the following;

A. PTO Switch on dash is in off position. Make sure there is not debris preventing the switch from properly turning on and off. I have seen this a number of times where the switch was stuck between the on and off positions due to dust and debris.

B. Brake pedal released

C. Seat switch depressed or jumper wire in place


Follow color coding in words. Test points in blue, What is NORMAL is in Purple and If Not Normal, what to check is in green. I tried to put it in organized columns and the software kept shifting everything and turning it into a jumbled mess. By color was the only way I could distinguish the items. :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::nunu::nunu::nunu:

Test/ Check Point Normal If Not Normal
1. Battery positive terminal 11.8 to 13.2 volts Test battery

2. Hold in and PTO LED (Under dash) LED Lights illuminated Lights off- check relay engagement circuit step 3

3. Seat switch and control/ fuse Battery Voltage Check power circuit test points from dash panel
module terminal number 6, engine module.
high temperature relay terminal 85
and dash panel module number 14


4. Seat Switch Battery Voltage Test Seat Switch

5. Control/ fuse module terminal A Battery Voltage Check 800 Pink Wire

TEST THE FOLLOWING WITH THE KEY SWITCH IN THE OFF POSITION

6. Control / fuse module Terminal D Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance check battery ground cable, cable connections
100 and 130 black wires in harness


7. PTO Solenoid Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance Check 115 black wire

8. Dash Panel Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance Check 135 black wire
Did you read post #5
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I read post # 5 but I have no way of knowing what , A2- S1 are, I have no diagram to be able to find a lot of the moduals an my wire #s have faded on a lot of the wires. Iam struggling here
 

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From what I read and looked at the electrical diagram the problem could be the brake switch.When the pedal is pushed in it also activates the RIO sw.The RIO is part of the pto circuit.I have a feeling the brake/rio switch is bad.
The purple wire 765 from from S6 brake sw to the S2 RIO sw must have power.From the S2 to the A2 control module (circuit board) is wire 705 pink/black must have power.A green led on A2 means all cranking circuit operating conditions are met and the circuit is functional.Check that out and let me know their are other things but that's the start.
I read post # 5 but I have no way of knowing what , A2- S1 are, I have no diagram to be able to find a lot of the moduals an my wire #s have faded on a lot of the wires. Iam struggling here
A2 control module (circuit board)
S2 RIO switch
I gave the wire number and color,are the colors faded.I'm giving you the steps and wire info off the diagram and the troubleshooting steps. IMG_1327.jpg
 
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