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Hello:

I just purchased a 1989 John Deere 332 tractor with a 30 inch hydro tiller. The tiller is not attached, I have been able to bolt the tiller to the tractor, but I am unable to figure out how to attach the tiller pump to the tractor. It apparently bolts to the rear of the tractor and runs off of two belts, but again, I can not figure out how to do so. If anyone has any suggestions, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks in advance:
Bob
 

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Chuck is on top of it.

Do you have pictures of the attaching parts you got with it?
Also a picture of the rear of the tractor, from a lower angle showing the rockshaft and whats behind it would help too.

All of the parts are no longer available, but can be found if you look long enough. I used to make and sell the brackets, and even a 3-point adapter for the 30 tiller, along with a few other parts. The big issue is the PTO. If you dont have that, try to get it from the previous owner because unless you do a lot of work, it wont work without it.
 

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The best recovery from not having a rear drive PTO on the tractor is to convert the tiller to belly drive from the front PTO and mule similar to the mower deck. You will need longer hoses and a different pump bracket of course, but those are within the skill set of most fabricators owning these little tractors. Here is the manual on a belly drive version of the tiller, and the PC1988 showing all the parts for all mounting types...

Chuck
 

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The best recovery from not having a rear drive PTO on the tractor is to convert the tiller to belly drive from the front PTO and mule similar to the mower deck. You will need longer hoses and a different pump bracket of course, but those are within the skill set of most fabricators owning these little tractors. Here is the manual on a belly drive version of the tiller, and the PC1988 showing all the parts for all mounting types...

Chuck
Chuck - Awesome info. Just picked up a 322 with the 30" tiller already converted to belly drive and with the extension making it as wide as the tractor. Now I just need to figure our the mule gear setup and belt sizes to run the bellydrive from the front PTO as mine does not have rear PTO. Anyone you know on here added the rear PTO? Is it a PITA to do? I know finding the parts will be the hard part, but I don't have an immediate need yet for the rear PTO but I am keeping my eyes out for one. Also - I have an extra mule gear that came with mine. Only damage I see to is is the tensioner bar broke and is behind the front plate. If anyone needs one, this is an easy fix.
 

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It is possible to add the rear PTO to a 322, but the parts are hard to find and usually quite expensive. In addition to the rear PTO assembly and double sheave pulley you would need the mating pump bracket and its double pulley, plus the two short belts. The belts are matched as to length and sold as a pair. The pump itself is the same for both mount versions...

Attached is some installation information on the belly drive version of this tiller. Do you have all the parts to use the belly drive? The belt is the same as the one used on the mower. The PC1988 Parts Catalog document I attached above in my post #4 to this thread in 2020 shows all the parts of both versions. This installation manual was there also, but wanted to highlight that it is what you need for the belly mount install.

Chuck
 

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Chuck:

Besides the Operator's Manual, is there another more detailed manual for the 322 that gets into more detail on the parts and electrical components on the unit? I was looking at my Operator's Manual and was surprised to find a lack of information about the hydraulic system, the PTO system and the like. I know they usually have manuals for dealers that are more for service and such.
 

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Chuckv - Was able to put those manuels to use over the last several weeks. Do you known anyone that may have a extra carburetor for the Yanmar 3 Cylinder that is in this? She started running ruff a week ago and I did basic pm on it, replaced plugs, air cleaners (it was needed), and then found that the air mixing needle tip broke off in the small port on the bottom. Needle is brass. Tried Freezing the carb and also heating is slowing in boiling water hoping to use the thermal expansion time differences between aluminum and brass, but that didn't work. I fear I have to replace the whole carb, which means I have to find one.
 
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