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Let me preface this by saying that I have no experence with the 1 series or the previous models in that size class, the smallest sub-cut I have owned was a 2520. I do live on a mountain that was a ski resort in the past so no part of my property is flat and level so I do feel qualified to speak to operating on slopes.

1) If you have a loader on the machine, keep it as low as possible when not on flat ground or 90 degrees to a slope. The loader is a huge lever on the chassis. The front axle pivots without resistance so as you lift the bucket higher, the lever effect causes the weight to be shifted off the high side rear wheel and placed on the low side front wheel, as the front axle will pivot, the chassis will roll with this load and pull the rear up higher as the bucket. When traversing slopes I was taught to keep the bucket no more than inches off the ground and to keep my hand on the loader control to put it down as quick as possible if I felt it getting tippy.

2) Wheel weights and loaded tires. These are the 2 things that help the most in making a tractor more stable, not just on slopes but in general. All my equipment has loaded tires and some have wheel weights. My 2520 felt a little tippy on my property compared to the larger tractors we have, once I loaded the tires and added weights that feeling went away and it felt rock steady.

3) Set your rear wheels to the widest position. I know it's only a few inches on most sub-cuts/cuts but it really does help.

I can't speak to using the hoe on a small tractor to assist with traversing a slope, the only TLB I have operated is our Case 580 which weighs more than some small countries.

My 2 cents,

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