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Discussion Starter #1
My new GMC2500 truck has a 2.5 inch receiver, and my old truck had a 2 receiver hitch. My horse trailer has a 2" bulldog coupler. I used an 8 inch drop ball mount before, but will need to go to six inch drop for the new truck's ball mount for the trailer to sit level. Trailer is a 2 horse that weighs approximately 3000 lbs unloaded, and about 6000 lbs with horses and tack.

I have two questions for you experienced haulers.

1. Move up to a 2.5 inch ball mount, or use the sleeve insert for a 2" mount that came with the new truck?

2. Should I spend the money on an adjustable ball mount, just in case I ever need to tow a different trailer, or stick with a fixed-drop ball mount? If I go adjustable mount, are there specific things to look for?

Thanks.
 

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If you have a 2.5" receiver already, then I would buy a 2.5" drawbar to fit it. As for fixed vs adjustable, if you only pull one trailer and you're sure you have the drop measurement correct then go fixed. Personally I never know what I'll have to hook up to, so I have an adjustable one. It's an older model, don't know what brand it is. If I had to buy one today I'd get this one, B&W is a super well respected company in the hitch industry. It has a 2 and 2 5/16" ball which is all you're ever likely to need.
 

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I was just in a similar position. Had my Ram 1500 where I used a 2" drop that worked well. Moved to a 2500 and man is the back of that thing higher. Plus the suspension obviously doesn't squat as much. Now I need a solid 8-9" drop for my two trailers. Also moved from 2" receiver to 2.5". No way my prior hitch was going to cut it so I bought adjustable. Also decided to try a Weigh Safe with the tongue weight scale built in because I'm always guessing and worried about tongue weight when I haul something that is not as consistent as my tractor, such as a load of black dirt or sand. I'm not 100% convinced the gauge is accurate, but I've only used it twice and once was with a light aluminum trailer that really didn't have much weight to start with. I'll keep monitoring it. However, even if the gauge turns out to be not exactly accurate it still is better than nothing. For instance, I loaded my 2520 (with loader, loaded tires, and tiller) on today and moved it around. Went from almost nothing when parked over the axles to about 1500# parked as far ahead as possible. The sweet spot where I had previously guessed it should sit was showing just over 500#. This is with said tractor and a trailer than weighs 2500# empty. So I think the gauge is better at higher weights than lower ones. And the hitch is absolute machining perfection. It is a beaut and is worth its price even if it didn't have a gauge. $300 for 10" drop aircraft aluminum billet with 2 balls and locking adjuster. http://a.co/7SjLGL3



Rob
 

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For that weight, the 2" using the supplied sleeve would be fine. The only downside I can see is if the 2 1/2 to 2 sleeve causes more slop/wiggle room.
The two adjustable above look good. I bought a cheap one years ago and it stood out farther from the bumper. The increase in distance from the axle/bumper created a lever effect and the bounce was significantly more but that was a 1/2 ton chevy. If the 2 to 2 1/2 sleeve fits flush in the 2 1/2 tube, I could see it getting stuck/hard to remove if it rusts at all.
 

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I faced the same too when I bought my 2500HD, I just bought a 2" shank aluminum adjustable drop hitch and used the adapter that came with the truck. The selection of 2.5" shank receivers is limited, and much more expense.

Mine is just like this: https://andersenhitches.com/Catalog/rapid-hitch.aspx
 

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For that weight, the 2" using the supplied sleeve would be fine. The only downside I can see is if the 2 1/2 to 2 sleeve causes more slop/wiggle room.
The two adjustable above look good. I bought a cheap one years ago and it stood out farther from the bumper. The increase in distance from the axle/bumper created a lever effect and the bounce was significantly more but that was a 1/2 ton chevy. If the 2 to 2 1/2 sleeve fits flush in the 2 1/2 tube, I could see it getting stuck/hard to remove if it rusts at all.
Yeah, the adjustable ones often do stick out further. Can affect chain, wiring, and breakaway cable length requirements. I'm going to have to re-do my breakaway cable now.

The 2-2.5" sleeve that came with my Ram is pretty precisely sized and there isn't much slop at all when used.

Rob
 

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I quess I am behind the times. Never heard of a 2.5" reciever. That's what I liked about this forum you learn something every day.
 

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I quests I am behind the times. Never heard of a 2.5" reciever. That's what I liked about this forum you learn something every day.
Some manufacturers are even offering a 3" now. Completely unnecessary in my opinion, even the 2.5". That much weight does not belong on a tag trailer behind anything smaller than a medium Duty truck like an International 4700 or F-650. It gives marketers something to brag about though.

I had a 2.5" on my last truck and hated it. The sleeve kept getting lost or sliding in, made installing anything a pain in the rear. Wouldn't buy another one, but since he already has it then I would eliminate the sleeve.
 

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Yeah, the adjustable ones often do stick out further. Can affect chain, wiring, and breakaway cable length requirements. I'm going to have to re-do my breakaway cable now.

The 2-2.5" sleeve that came with my Ram is pretty precisely sized and there isn't much slop at all when used.

Rob
Mine is the same, it fits nicely.

I had a 2.5" on my last truck and hated it. The sleeve kept getting lost or sliding in, made installing anything a pain in the rear. Wouldn't buy another one, but since he already has it then I would eliminate the sleeve.
My sleeve is flared at the end so it can't slide through.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
A few followup questions on my original post.

hitch2.jpg

hitch1.jpg

In these pictures you can see the GM supplied sleeve or insert to step down the 2.5 inch receiver tube on the truck to accept my old 2 inch ball mount. There is slop between both the sleeve and the receiver, and the ball mount tube and the sleeve, so to eliminate at least part of the movement, I think I need a 2.5 inch ball mount assembly. Unless you think those anti-rattle add-on things work well? Seems to me like just an added piece of hardware to deal wth.

Now, if I go with an adjustable 2.5 nch ball mount, I'd worry about theft. In the past I have used a locking hitch pin. But if you look at the second picture, I've had to use a short pin to avoid interfering with the hole where one the trailer safety chains needs to be hooked. So that leaves me with an expensive adjustable ball mount with the locking internal pins that extend, like this one, or just using a short hitch pin with a cheaper non-adjustable mount, and accept that theft might happen. Any suggestions, or options I haven't thought of?

hitch4.jpg

PS: The galvanized eye bolt you notice I added because there was no place to attach the wire cable from the trailer breakaway switch. The only other place I could see to attach the breakaway was directly to one of the safety chains. Actually my trailer has coiled safety wire cables rather than chains. That's an added question. Which is best, chains or wire cables? The Gore brand trailers all come with coiled wire cables.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Remove your receiver hitch when not connected to a trailer? That's the only way to ensure no one takes it really...
I kind of addressed this in a post a while back when I asked where y'all stored your ball mounts when you took them off your trucks. I was looking for a safe way to keep it with the truck but not running the risk of something that heavy becoming an unguided missile in case of an emergency stop or an accident. Most common response seemed to be "I never take it off."

I don't want a bed mounted tool box because of the size and shapes of the things I carry in the bed, so that leaves storing the hitch in the cab somehow.

And, I'd prefer to leave mine on. I'd rather bump a shin on it installed than having it propelled into my head:banghead:
 

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I kind of addressed this in a post a while back when I asked where y'all stored your ball mounts when you took them off your trucks. I was looking for a safe way to keep it with the truck but not running the risk of something that heavy becoming an unguided missile in case of an emergency stop or an accident. Most common response seemed to be "I never take it off."

I don't want a bed mounted tool box because of the size and shapes of the things I carry in the bed, so that leaves storing the hitch in the cab somehow.

And, I'd prefer to leave mine on. I'd rather bump a shin on it installed than having it propelled into my head:banghead:
Oh I agree, I usually have one in the receiver at any given time as well. The one's I'm not using are behind/under the back seat.
 

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A few followup questions on my original post.

In these pictures you can see the GM supplied sleeve or insert to step down the 2.5 inch receiver tube on the truck to accept my old 2 inch ball mount. There is slop between both the sleeve and the receiver, and the ball mount tube and the sleeve, so to eliminate at least part of the movement, I think I need a 2.5 inch ball mount assembly. Unless you think those anti-rattle add-on things work well? Seems to me like just an added piece of hardware to deal wth.

Now, if I go with an adjustable 2.5 nch ball mount, I'd worry about theft. In the past I have used a locking hitch pin. But if you look at the second picture, I've had to use a short pin to avoid interfering with the hole where one the trailer safety chains needs to be hooked. So that leaves me with an expensive adjustable ball mount with the locking internal pins that extend, like this one, or just using a short hitch pin with a cheaper non-adjustable mount, and accept that theft might happen. Any suggestions, or options I haven't thought of?

PS: The galvanized eye bolt you notice I added because there was no place to attach the wire cable from the trailer breakaway switch. The only other place I could see to attach the breakaway was directly to one of the safety chains. Actually my trailer has coiled safety wire cables rather than chains. That's an added question. Which is best, chains or wire cables? The Gore brand trailers all come with coiled wire cables.
That's too bad about the slop in the sleeve adapter. The one that came with my Ram 2500 was pretty tight. Ultimately, unless your trailer is empty and tongue-light I don't think the slop will be noticed too much. But I can understand wanting to just get the 'right' hitch for your truck.

Also too bad about the interference with a hitch lock pin and the chain loops. Another poor design choice. On my Ram I can use a standard locking pin with a end-cap style lock without issues. But for you, could you drill out the pin you have with a larger hole and use a padlock to lock it? That might be small enough.

For the breakaway cable, I thought attaching it to the same loop as the safety chain was the right way? Pretty sure you don't want to attach it to the safety chain itself. I don't think cable vs. chain really matters as long as they are the right rated capacity.

That type of hitch you show with the pins that push out to lock is actually pretty good. It's what I used for 7 years on my Ram 1500. The locking mechanism and pins stayed functional even when used through salty MN winters (not 100% of the time on the truck, but quite a few months in 2016). However, when moving from the 2" receiver to the 2.5" one on my 2500 it was obviously useless. Anyone want to buy one?

Rob
 

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I was just faced with this same decision on Friday. I ended up pricing out the 3 different drops I would need for the different trailers that I use. The price of the three drops vs the adjustable drop was negligible. It was going to cost the same for 3 as it was for 1 so to save room and not have to mess with having the wrong one with me I opted for the adjustable.
 

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I just saw that the Weigh-Safe is 20% off at Auto Anything with free shipping. Makes the 2.5" receiver 10" drop under $250. Just my luck.

Rob
 

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