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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone here made their own quick hitch?
I'm in the process of building one that I will post in the metal working forum, but if anyone has built one I'd love to see it, gain some ideas for my own.
So far I have the j-hooks fabbed.

image.jpg
 

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That's a great job! But with the price of some QH's (in the USA) under $100 I think most wouldn't bother making one themselves.
 

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That's a great job! But with the price of some QH's (in the USA) under $100 I think most wouldn't bother making one themselves.
True, but I'd be willing to bet the hitch he's building will be much better quality than a Harbor Freight special. :good2:

I considered building one for the 5320, as Cat II hitches are pretty expensive. Just haven't done it yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If I could get one under 200 I would probably not be doing this either...
Or maybe I would cause I enjoy cutting/welding metal

Even if no one has made one... Any thoughts on things I could incorporate into it in the design process that maybe you wish your imatch had?
 
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I had a Speeco cat 2 quick hitch for 24 hours last week. What I discovered was that it didn't clear my 3" hydraulic top link cylinder at full retract/up (dented my cylinder finding that out), and since the lower links are tucked into the QH frame, adding some metal to move the top link connection backwards to allow full height would've made it impossible to tilt back because my lower links aren't long enough with the 12" cylinder.

I'm contemplating getting Pat's instead. It'd add a little length to my bottom links and I don't know that I'll ever really switch stuff around enough to need true QH speed.

The Speeco also didn't fit my lower brackets on my log drag/receiver hitch. I guess I made them too wide on the inside supports.
 

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Even after sitting in the back yard, enjoying a few adult beverages, the pic didn't look right. I saved it and edited it(rotated the pic too). I can now figure out what it looks like.
image001a.jpg

Good work so far. :bigthumb: I think if you have the time to build your own, you'll have something that will last. I'll be following this thread.

:munch:

Cheers!!! :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've been hurting for time to work on this with a new baby.... But I have made a fair bit of progress
Have done my testing, works great. Shot on a coat of primer.
Just need to finish the latchs and some green paint.

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image.jpg
 

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Lookin good!! Nice job. How are you going to lock the implement into the hitch? :unknown:
 

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I had a Speeco cat 2 quick hitch for 24 hours last week. What I discovered was that it didn't clear my 3" hydraulic top link cylinder at full retract/up (dented my cylinder finding that out), and since the lower links are tucked into the QH frame, adding some metal to move the top link connection backwards to allow full height would've made it impossible to tilt back because my lower links aren't long enough with the 12" cylinder.

I'm contemplating getting Pat's instead. It'd add a little length to my bottom links and I don't know that I'll ever really switch stuff around enough to need true QH speed.

The Speeco also didn't fit my lower brackets on my log drag/receiver hitch. I guess I made them too wide on the inside supports.
Jim,

Didn't your 5065E come with telescoping link arms? I added them to the 4105 for $300. Nice and easy to hook up implements now.
 

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I had a Speeco cat 2 quick hitch for 24 hours last week. What I discovered was that it didn't clear my 3" hydraulic top link cylinder at full retract/up (dented my cylinder finding that out), and since the lower links are tucked into the QH frame, adding some metal to move the top link connection backwards to allow full height would've made it impossible to tilt back because my lower links aren't long enough with the 12" cylinder.

I'm contemplating getting Pat's instead. It'd add a little length to my bottom links and I don't know that I'll ever really switch stuff around enough to need true QH speed.

The Speeco also didn't fit my lower brackets on my log drag/receiver hitch. I guess I made them too wide on the inside supports.
This is more common than you might think. I had a whole thread on how the JD iMatch changed the overall geometry of my 3PH, caused the top link to hit the plate where the hook is, and ended up having to adjust my rockshaft to lessen the max lift on it. It interferes now with how my mowing deck lifts as I don't get full clearance out of it, but it's a sacrifice I had to make.
 

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If I could get one under 200 I would probably not be doing this either...
Or maybe I would cause I enjoy cutting/welding metal

Even if no one has made one... Any thoughts on things I could incorporate into it in the design process that maybe you wish your imatch had?
I only use mine with a Ballast Box - no other 3PH attachments currently. It's there because I need to be able to dump the BB and expose the draw bar so I can move the trailers around when I need to. I would love to have some sort of "snap on / snap off" item that would give me a hitch ball so I didn't have to remove the BB when moving a trailer. I have no interest in welding anything to the BB directly for this, either. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It's finished, works perfectly, so much nicer than man handling ballast box.

Would I do it again,.. Probably not, with my primitive tools anyway, but it was definatly a nice welding project and handy as hell.

The last pic, really strong magnets that grab the latch bar while unhooking implements, when hooking up, the catches will just push out of the way and fall back in place over top of implement pins .

Let me know what you think, next welding project will be a tooth bar

image.jpg


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image.jpg


image.jpg
 

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I like it.
 

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That is one fine looking quick hitch. Great job :bigthumb::bigthumb:
 

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It's finished, works perfectly, so much nicer than man handling ballast box.

Would I do it again,.. Probably not, with my primitive tools anyway, but it was definatly a nice welding project and handy as hell.

The last pic, really strong magnets that grab the latch bar while unhooking implements, when hooking up, the catches will just push out of the way and fall back in place over top of implement pins .

Let me know what you think, next welding project will be a tooth bar

Overall, looks like a pretty fair hitch. It works, and given the choice between yours and a HF special I'd opt for the one you built. :good2:

The only thing I see is really an unnecessary thing. The over builder in me would add some diagonal gussets to the top corners, but there's no real need for them. The hitch shouldn't see much twisting stress at all, because the link arms can still pivot where they connect to the hitch.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Overall, looks like a pretty fair hitch. It works, and given the choice between yours and a HF special I'd opt for the one you built. :good2:

The only thing I see is really an unnecessary thing. The over builder in me would add some diagonal gussets to the top corners, but there's no real need for them. The hitch shouldn't see much twisting stress at all, because the link arms can still pivot where they connect to the hitch.

My original plan in my head included the corner gussets, but the more steel and welding rod I put into this, the more I knew I wouldn't need them. Not for the little 1025
 

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The only thing I see is really an unnecessary thing. The over builder in me would add some diagonal gussets to the top corners, but there's no real need for them. The hitch shouldn't see much twisting stress at all, because the link arms can still pivot where they connect to the hitch.
I'm not so sure about that. I use a 5-foot rear blade for snow on my 2720 and I've always used a Land Pride QH-15 quick hitch. Last season I purchased a JD iMatch in preparation for using it with my Artillian fork frame. Last winter just for kicks I swapped out the Land Pride QH and installed the JD iMatch. While the JD iMatch worked as advertised I noticed that when pushing snow in reverse over frozen ground the iMatch frame would flex back and forth like a wet noodle. I never experienced that with my Land Pride QH. So after 3-4 plowing sessions with the iMatch I swapped back to the Land Pride for the remainder of the season and at no time did I observe it flexing like the iMatch did.

Granted, there are a bazillion iMatches out there doing fine so I wouldn't necessarily say it is a design issue.

You can go overboard with the diagonal gussets. Some 3rd party quick hitches have gussets so large that they interfere with some implements. The Land Pride gussets are beefy but do not interfere with anything.

iMatch.jpg QH-15.jpg
 
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Ultimately, I feel that you will get different results from different implements, on different machines, in different exact situational use cases. For me, there's zero need for the gussets because all I haul around is the BB. I'm looking for scrap pieces to build a trailer mover which will also not see any "extreme" duty. I can see how plowing would put some different and more intense strain on the hitch, but I would never expect to see flexing on the upper part that could be described as comparing to a "wet noodle".

Any 3PH attachment is designed to exert its forces at three points. And, none of those points are the outer/upper corners of a quick hitch.
 
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