Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,289 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
I have a dual rear SCV and am in the process of getting a hydraulic top and tilt setup. My question is...how exactly do you measure the links to make sure you have a good fit?

It seems obvious to me to measure both links at the fully closed and fully open (just before coming apart! :) ) positions, but is there anything else I should know? Besides the super obvious need to match the category (cat 1 to cat 1, etc.).

For example...with a hydraulic tilt link how do I get a consistent level position? I saw one setup where all the way retracted meant level, but then how do you tilt in the other direction?

Thanks in advance for your help.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,698 Posts
Hi all,
I have a dual rear SCV and am in the process of getting a hydraulic top and tilt setup. My question is...how exactly do you measure the links to make sure you have a good fit?

It seems obvious to me to measure both links at the fully closed and fully open (just before coming apart! :) ) positions, but is there anything else I should know? Besides the super obvious need to match the category (cat 1 to cat 1, etc.).

For example...with a hydraulic tilt link how do I get a consistent level position? I saw one setup where all the way retracted meant level, but then how do you tilt in the other direction?

Thanks in advance for your help.
You have to either install a level indicator or be very good at eye-balling it. I have no use for tilt but I do have a hydraulic top-link. I fastened one of these to the top of my Quick Hitch. It works great at telling me when I'm level. I also use it for adjusting my rear blade level (using the manual adjustable lift link). It's been stuck on there for several years now and holding up just fine.

 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
610 Posts
I set my top and tilt cylinders for level in both directions with the cylinders retracted and the tractor level. Level doesn't mean much because you could be doing a crown on a road or off camber and you want the box blade level in relationship to the tractor. The best gauge is your eyeball and seat time.

I would love to tilt the box blade in the other direction (left-right) but that will take another cylinder. Brian from Fit Rite Hydraulics will hopefully chime in with his expert opinion.

Edit: I have the top cylinder set do I can rotate the box blade with the front raised so I can put the rockshaft in float and run around to groom the roads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,289 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thank you for the replies.

Of the two questions, the one on how to measure is the most important, because until I actually buy some, I will not have anything to level! :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,698 Posts
I forgot to mention... I measured my top-link just like the original. On my 2720 when the Quick Hitch is vertically plumb the top-link is pretty much right in the middle of its travel. That seems to give me the most flexibility as when running a rear blade sometimes I want to increase the angle of attack and sometimes I want to decrease the angle of attack.
 

·
Official "Groovie" Dude
Joined
·
5,663 Posts
How I measured mine and not sure if it's the correct way but it works the way I want it to.

I took my manual top link and set it so my quick hitch was level in the lowered position. Then took the measurement of the centerline of the two top link pins. Then I looked for a top link that put that measurement in the center of the hydraulic cylinder stroke.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,560 Posts
I forgot to mention... I measured my top-link just like the original. On my 2720 when the Quick Hitch is vertically plumb the top-link is pretty much right in the middle of its travel. That seems to give me the most flexibility as when running a rear blade sometimes I want to increase the angle of attack and sometimes I want to decrease the angle of attack.
This is what I did. If you order it from fitrite hydraulics Brian will know what you need.:good2:
Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,289 Posts
Discussion Starter #8

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,560 Posts
I have heard great things about fit rite. But their wait times are squarely in the "I may be dead by then" category.
I agree and I didn’t like the wait, then I put it on a month after I got it. :hide:

Of course you could also think about the nice cylinder your beneficiary will get.:laugh:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
610 Posts
I agree and I didn’t like the wait, then I put it on a month after I got it. :hide:

Of course you could also think about the nice cylinder your beneficiary will get.
LOL, me too. I had too many things going on and the T&T kit from Fit Rite sat for a month or two before install, it was worth the wait time though. Brian ships everything but the cylinders within a couple of weeks and that stuff takes most of the install time. So you could take your time and install the valves and joystick and be ready for the cylinders.
 

·
Fit Rite Hydraulics
Joined
·
639 Posts
I set my top and tilt cylinders for level in both directions with the cylinders retracted and the tractor level. Level doesn't mean much because you could be doing a crown on a road or off camber and you want the box blade level in relationship to the tractor. The best gauge is your eyeball and seat time.

I would love to tilt the box blade in the other direction (left-right) but that will take another cylinder. Brian from Fit Rite Hydraulics will hopefully chime in with his expert opinion.

Edit: I have the top cylinder set do I can rotate the box blade with the front raised so I can put the rockshaft in float and run around to groom the roads.
John, I guess that you did not read the flyers that were sent with your top & tilt set? Your side link is designed to be extended half way to be level. You will get an equal amount of tilt angle to the left and right sides when the unit is installed properly. My hydraulic side links basically mimic the factory manual adjustable link typically found on the right hand side.

I would like to know how in the world you can have the top link fully retracted and have the implement level front to back???? It should be extended a little over half way to have the implement level front-back.

Hopefully I'm just misunderstanding what you have said. :unknown:
 

·
Fit Rite Hydraulics
Joined
·
639 Posts
I have heard great things about fit rite. But their wait times are squarely in the "I may be dead by then" category.
I'm sorry to hear of your illness. I hope that you are able to spend some time with all of your loved ones before you pass. :empathy:

Good luck with your T&T build. :thumbup1gif:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
610 Posts
John, I guess that you did not read the flyers that were sent with your top & tilt set? Your side link is designed to be extended half way to be level. You will get an equal amount of tilt angle to the left and right sides when the unit is installed properly. My hydraulic side links basically mimic the factory manual adjustable link typically found on the right hand side.n

I would like to know how in the world you can have the top link fully retracted and have the implement level front to back???? It should be extended a little over half way to have the implement level front-back.

Hopefully I'm just misunderstanding what you have said. :unknown:
I'll check tomorrow Brian, I don't remember.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,289 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I'm sorry to hear of your illness. I hope that you are able to spend some time with all of your loved ones before you pass. :empathy:

Good luck with your T&T build. :thumbup1gif:
That's the thing though. I'm not ill. And yet... :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
610 Posts
John, I guess that you did not read the flyers that were sent with your top & tilt set? Your side link is designed to be extended half way to be level. You will get an equal amount of tilt angle to the left and right sides when the unit is installed properly. My hydraulic side links basically mimic the factory manual adjustable link typically found on the right hand side.

I would like to know how in the world you can have the top link fully retracted and have the implement level front to back???? It should be extended a little over half way to have the implement level front-back.

Hopefully I'm just misunderstanding what you have said. :unknown:
My bad :oops:. I got the links adjusted and I can now tilt left and right. The top link was good, I can tilt the box blade past level fore and aft.
 

·
Fit Rite Hydraulics
Joined
·
639 Posts
My bad :oops:. I got the links adjusted and I can now tilt left and right. The top link was good, I can tilt the box blade past level fore and aft.
Thanks for double checking. Now with the hitch properly setup it can be used as designed from the factory getting you an equal amount of tilt angle to BOTH SIDES. :good2:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
237 Posts
I used the adjustable link opposite on the left side with Fit-Rite hyd link on the right. If I want to make a ditch on the right side with the box blade, I can get a really great angle (tilt) by shortening the manual left link and extending the hyd link fully. To get things back to equal tilt, I readjust the manual left link so things are level with the hyd link in the middle of its travel.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top