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How do you paint plastic X700 fender?

2937 Views 23 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  tj1
Hello, new here on the sight.

I searched the sight but can't find much on plastic paint repair.

I purchased a very low hour X740. It has some cosmetic damage on the rear fender.

While I have experience in classic car restoration, I don't have much in plastic paint repair.

It almost seams like a gel coat on the rear fender as there is black/gray plastic or primer underneath the green. Unlike the polycarbonate hood that has the color all the way through the plastic.

I've looked for this tractor a long time and finally could afford it. I'm really excited and want to make it look new.

The replacement fender is $1k!

I really appreciate the help!

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welcome to GTT. I don't have any experience on painting plastics but I will warn you; if anyone suggests you contact a certain person on painting advice, (that I will not mention), research past posts first..... :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::whistle::whistle::oops:
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Thanks for the welcome and inside joke. Wocka Wocka LOL
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I thought the rear fender and seat pan was steel on the x7s. Its just the hood that is plastic.
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I thought the rear fender and seat pan was steel on the x7s. Its just the hood that is plastic.
Now I have to go check mine,, you may be correct... Yes it is steel on mine ....
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Oh it's steel? Thank god... man what a dumb you know what I am...
When I knocked on it, it seemed like a dense plastic. Different the the floor pan.

Don't mind me. I drove 16 hours straight to get this tractor one way. I just got home yesterday with it and I'm beat!

Well anyway, I'm ecstatic I got this tractor and am looking forward to diving into it and adding all kinds of accessories! Also chatting with all of you!
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maybe different years different material???
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So I'm not going crazy...! o_O:ROFLMAO:

I pulled out the trusty paint thickness gauge (magnet) and sure as :poop: it's plastic... It's like a thick car bumper plastic. Bummer.... was hoping metal for ease of repair.

The floor board pan on the other hand is metal.
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Now I have to go back later to make sure!!! It sure felt and sounded like steel to me but I also have a magnet so that is what I will check it with.. Hard to believe mine would be plastic.. What year is yours?
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Mine's a 2006. 1st year for the X740. Rebadged X495.

Same part number 2002-2012
M139820
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here is a past link to your question at least on an x738. Thought I was going nuts! and I was posting on this thread too! Old age,, yup and I'm sticking to it! Just read further down in the posts. sorry yours is plastic..
Just refinish the same way you would on steel. Feather out the scrape all the way down to the SMC (may or may not be SMC?) if you have to, prime the feathered area to fill the feathered scrape. Prep sand dry or wet and finish like you have with your restoration work. I actually like the John Deere enamel but I recommend you use the hardener that Deere sells for it. Even then, it doesn't dry thoroughly as quickly as most automotive urethanes do but if you give it a few days for extra cure it will be fine. I shot my front quick hitch with the John Deere paint last winter so that it looked more at home with all the green on my tractor.
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That's a great paint job JW.... Every time I try to do a good paint job it turns to orange peel!!! I stopped a long time ago unless its a rattle can job,, I do ok with that stuff. But so doesn't the misses!!!! :rolleyes:
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I know I have painted the 110/112 hoods but that was fiberglass. My thought is a lot of people keep their JD equipment nice and even the large combines and tractors have a lot of plastic parts. If a special paint or primer was needed for plastic I think the dealers would stock it just because they do sell a lot paint.
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So I called my local dealer today. The parts and service dept no help. The parts person just said they sell the paint in a rattle can and one gallon. I asked about adding harder to the gallon and they had no clue.

So I also called Deere today too. Long and the short, got in touch with the technical research and solutions dept. They had no clue... I asked if it was gel coat, paint, etc. They said for me to call my dealer back and they will know the proper channels to call the factory. Yeah ok.....

Not trying to over think this (maybe I am) but it's good discussion. I like to know how things work and do it the right way.
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J. White thats paint job came out awesome. Thanks for the tip too. I really appreciate it.
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I should add that Valspar makes the hardener that Deere sells to go with their paint. You should be able to get the Deere colors in quarts. My dealer stocks both the green and yellow as well as the different blacks that are used on various parts. Some are gloss, some kind of flat and the medium and low gloss blacks. They have catchy names for the blacks but I can't recall them at the moment. If you plan to wet sand and buff your fender pan I would definitely add the hardener and also wait several days or even a week if you can. Like I mentioned, it's not like most single stage automotive finishes but it's pretty darn good.
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Great, thanks!

What gun do you use to shoot it?
I used an old Sata red jet. I have two of them that I used back when I did collision repair. I used one for base coat and one for clear coat. The JD paint is pretty thin and I think they recommend a ratio of 8:1:1 but I think the reducer is not needed. I spoke with a lab guy at Valspar about using their hardener in JD paint and he gave me a little insight into their hardener. It's not like any other hardener I've ever used in automotive and I was against buying it until I tried every automotive hardener I had on hand in the JD paint and none of them worked so I gave in and bought the Valspar stuff. It works great so I'm happy with it.
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Personally, I'd drive on over to TSC and get a rattle can of JD Green and call it a day.
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