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Hi I'm looking at a JD 455 with 1600 hours on it. The tractor seems to be in good shape from his pictures. He says it has no issues. The only thing i see wrong is mismatched front tires. How many hours do these tractors normally go without major issues? I would be using it to mow a couple acres a week as i have a 2018 1025R for tilling and snow removal etc. I appreciate any comments. Kent
 

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I am by no means an authority on tractor hours but, as a general rule of thumb with cars and trucks, you multiply hours X 35 to get a guesstimate on the mileage.
So your 1600 hours to me would translate to 57,600 miles which to me, wouldn't be that terrible. Factoring in that the engine in the 455 is water cooled,then if he is truthful that he has not had any major issues, Id feel comfortable with the knowledge that you still have plenty of life left in the old gal.
From the info I gather online, your tractor is between a 1992-2001 which puts it at ballpark of 20 years old. So he put on roughly 2800 miles a year or 80 hours per year. To me that isnt extreme at all and if the price is right, might be a heck of a deal.
But I am hoping someone more familiar with this machine can better guide you.

hope this info helps a little in your decision making. :good2:
 

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FYI - I bought a tractor with mismatched front tires and found the only way to get a level cut was to set the tire pressure by measuring the height of the rims. If i set the tire pressure to equal psi, the tractor did not ride or cut level. I finally replaced the tire but seting to equal height was a good short term solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm going to look at the 455 Saturday. It states in his ad that the fluids have just been changed but i'll never know how it was treated for the past 20 years.
I agree about the different tires making it hard to level a deck. I'm way to OCD to leave it that way if i buy the tractor.
Thanks for your comments Guys. Kent
 

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I would say 5000 hours for diesel, longer if well maintained.

On my 285 one front tire wore out at about 1000 hours and 25 years, the other the next year.
 

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Fluids just changed has flipper written all over it. History will be a true unknown, and personally I wouldn’t ask, as many will flat out lie to get a sale. Inspect closely if the seller wasn’t the owner and user.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Went to check out the 455 today. Very nice couple who moved to the maritimes from Ontario a couple years ago.He cut 2 acres and blew the snow for the last 16 years with it. His friend was selling a X748 last year so he upgraded to FWD.
It starts and runs nice with no smoke after start up.Mismatched front tires and a tiny bit of play in the middle deck spindle is all i could find wrong with it. I haven't checked the serial number yet but he thought it was built the first year they made 455"s. I'l check it out closer tomorrow when i unload it. Long day of driving. Later Kent
 

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Hi I'm looking at a JD 455 with 1600 hours on it. The tractor seems to be in good shape from his pictures. He says it has no issues. The only thing i see wrong is mismatched front tires. How many hours do these tractors normally go without major issues? I would be using it to mow a couple acres a week as i have a 2018 1025R for tilling and snow removal etc. I appreciate any comments. Kent
Why not just get a mower deck for the 1025R instead of another machine?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Why not just get a mower deck for the 1025R instead of another machine?
I did buy the 60 inch MMM with my 1025, but rather not have the hassle of putting deck on and off weekly.
For the last decade or longer i used a Cub Cadet 982 with a loader and a 1772 for grass cutting and snow removal.I sold the 982 with loader and the 1025 was bought to replace it. I'm enjoying the 4 WD over the 982's 2WD. I cut alot of grass and my 1772 is getting alot of hours on it so i thought if i had a 455 parts are readily available for it than the 1772 which was only made 1 year. thanks Kent
 

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I did buy the 60 inch MMM with my 1025, but rather not have the hassle of putting deck on and off weekly.
For the last decade or longer i used a Cub Cadet 982 with a loader and a 1772 for grass cutting and snow removal.I sold the 982 with loader and the 1025 was bought to replace it. I'm enjoying the 4 WD over the 982's 2WD. I cut alot of grass and my 1772 is getting alot of hours on it so i thought if i had a 455 parts are readily available for it than the 1772 which was only made 1 year. thanks Kent
The 1025 deck is super easy on/off. Takes 5 minutes tops


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From Twitter this morning. Not to shabby looking for that many hours. Maybe E is for exceptional.:dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The 1025 deck is super easy on/off. Takes 5 minutes tops


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Being as i'm only semi retired, i just don't have time to be changing decks. LOL Kent
 

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Being as i'm only semi retired, i just don't have time to be changing decks. LOL Kent
I own a 1025r and I didn't purchase a MMM deck for it and its very unlikely I ever will. The 1025r isn't as good a mowing machine as the 455 in my opinion and I own both. The 455 is from the era before the "Drive Over decks" came into the marketplace. That means the deck depth is high, which gives it excellent air flow and lift capabilities with Gator Blades. The extra depth of the 455 60" deck is a large part of why its such a great mowing lawn and garden tractor.

The 455 is actually a very nice mowing machine if you set it up correctly. Use the Gator Blades and on that machine, its very likely the deck is square on the machine despite its age as that thing is built like a tank. It's hard to knock the deck out of square unless you collide the deck with something and I can tell you that I have seen the machine brought to a stop while mowing by catching the deck on something and rarely does it do anything to the deck height or squareness.

If the guy you bought it from hadn't changed the gear box oil on the mower deck it would be a good idea to do so. Some of the gear boxes on the 455 use a tapered threaded plug which can be a bear to get out if it hasn't been out in some time. It's an allen plug if I recall and use a very good quality allen socket on it as any cheap China tools will likely give you bloody knuckles. You will likely need a breaker bar on the allen socket.

I have one of those machines I have had since new. I have 3,000 hours on it and its been an excellent machine. I would like to restore mine once I get my new shop building.

One of the very few negatives about the machine is that they can be quite warm to mow with as the radiator is just in front of the dash, under the gauges. The cooling fan actually blows the air towards you to cool the engine and it draws the fresh air into the side panels. So, if you get into dirty dusty mowing conditions, as the operator, you will get dusty.

1,600 hours is low if the machine has been serviced as it should be. That is an early machine in the 455 production, I am going to say by looking at the pictures, its a 1993 or 1994.

Here is the breakdown

Serial number

1993: 010001
1994: 020001
1995: 030001
1996: 040001
1997: 050001
1998: 060001
1999: 070001
2000: 080001
2001: 090001


Mower Deck Installation Procedure for Non Drive Over 60" Deck (from someone who has had it on and off the tractor dozens if not a hundred times and learned what works and what doesnt.)

The 60" mower on the 455 is a nut buster for sure to put on and take off the machine. The easiest way to put the deck on and take it off the 455 is as follows;

1. Always remove and install this deck on a smooth hard surface like a garage floor or driveway. Make every reasonable effort to AVOID putting this deck on or taking it off on the lawn or a soft surface. Take this as gospel from someone who knows the importance of being able to easily move this heavy deck (400# plus). It is far easier to remove and install on a hard smooth surface.

2. Make sure the deck lift mechanism is fully cranked DOWN to allow the lift arms to go as low as possible. Once cranked down, hydraulically raise the lift arms as high as they will go.

3. Rotate the deck anti skid wheels and axles and pin the wheels in the position to roll the deck sideways. Three of the wheels can be rotated while the right front wheel is on a spring loaded spindle and will turn with the deck movement. When the deck is on the tractor make sure to do this wheel rotation before you attempt to remove it or it becomes a double nut buster. If the deck is on the floor With the wheels turned, its easier to get under the tractor. If the deck is not on the tractor and the wheels are not rotated for install, slide a floor jack under the deck and lift the front and rear independently and rotate the wheels for install direction.

4. Put a floor jack under the front center pivot of the tractor and jack it up about a foot. Turn the front wheels to the right to the end of the turn stop. Turn the tractor off.

5. Remove the deck spindle and belt guards and clean out all the debris. Grease the center spindle fitting on each spindle on the mower deck and also the deck belt tension arm grease fittings. (If you don't clean under the belt and spindle guards, you will likely miss grease fittings). Grease the driveshaft U Joints on each end of the PTO shaft and also the Shaft slide grease fitting for when the PTO shaft it compressed or extended during install. Grease the anti skid wheel fittings and the right front deck wheel spring loaded spindle. Reinstall all belt guards.

6. Fold the driveshaft across the rear of the deck with the end which connects to the male PTO on the tractor, towards the right side of the deck.

7. Make sure the male PTO shaft on the rear trans axle case is clean. Make sure to remove the grass and other debris which gets wrapped around the base of the shaft very tightly. The grass packs into the seal area and gets dirty from the grease and dirt and often isn't as easy to see as you might think. Use a flash light to make sure you have cleaned this area completely. You may need to use needle nose pliers or something with a point to remove all the debris around the base of the shaft. Be very careful with the sharp point to not puncture the PTO shaft seal. Once the debris is all removed and the seal area is clean, then coat the shaft with grease, specifically the tip of the shaft as it makes insertion easier ( about now you are wondering if this is a John Deere mower deck install instructions or the auspicious beginnings of a Penthouse forum letter. You decide.:laugh:)

8. Roll the deck under the machine from the starboard side (right) to the port side (left) of the tractor. The deck discharge chute should NEVER go under the machine as its much harder from that direction. Center the deck under the tractor so the deck lift points line up with the deck lift arms.

9. Lower the floor jack. Start the tractor and lower the deck lift arms and make sure the line up with the lift points. You may need to adjust the deck position for the lift arms to land between the deck mounted lift brackets. Do NOT connect the lift arms quite yet, just use their position to make sure the deck is properly placed and aligned under the tractor, side to side and front to rear.

10. Install the front mower deck support assembly, hook it through the deck arms on the front and put the cross bar in the frame brackets on the front of the tractor. Swing the front support up into place and secure the spring loaded ends. Note one end of the snap pins has a special position locking bracket on it. This must snap into place otherwise you have the bracket on upside down.

Snap into place on the front frame members of the tractor. This locks the front deck support arms in place. The front lift arms sweep upward from the deck mounting position towards the tractor deck. If you look at this assembly carefully, there is only one way for the lift to mount.

11. Start the tractor and Lower rear deck lift / support arms into the deck lift points. Connect the deck lift arms to the deck assembly and secure to the deck with the spring loaded J Pins on the arms.

12. With the deck still on the ground on the wheels, lay on the side of the tractor and reach under and slide the deck PTO shaft on to the male PTO shaft. Which side you lay on depends upon if you are right handed or left handed. Once you have become familiar with the shaft connection, you can reach around from the rear of the tractor under the rear end and connect the shaft.

You may have to rotate the PTO shaft to get the splines to align. The easiest way to roate the shaft is to turn it by hand. If you are not able to do that, reach in to the deck discharge chute and rotate the mower blades slightly to turn the PTO shaft so it lines up with the male shaft on the trans axle. Sometimes, it takes a couple of small turns of the deck PTO shaft to line the splines up.

13. Pull the lock collar back on the PTO shaft and slide the PTO shaft from the deck onto the male PTO shaft on the rear axles assembly. Make sure the PTO lock collar snaps into place and locks the PTO shaft onto the tractor. Pull on the PTO shaft towards the front of the tractor to make sure the PTO shaft is secure. It should not move forward or backwards on the PTO shaft once the PTO collar is locked.

The reason you make sure the debris at the base of the male shaft is cleared and removed is otherwise, the PTO shaft lock collar will not shap into place and the PTO shaft could come off the male shaft which would be very bad as the rotating shaft would be flailing around under the tractor likely damaging the hydro filter and other assemblies.

14. Lift the hydraulic handle on the dash column to the right of the steering wheel and raise the deck to its full up position. Crank the deck height knob several turns clockwise to increase the deck height. Lower the control handle and determine the deck height in its down position. Anytime you need to raise or lower the deck height, lift it with the console hydraulic lever removing the weight off the deck support arms and adjust the deck height knob on the operator platform between the feet wells. You can crank the deck height adjustment knob with the weight of the deck on it but it is very hard on the deck height adjustment hardware and plastic crank knob.

15. With the deck raised to its maximum lifted position, Rotate the deck wheels and put the pins back in place with the wheels in the forward facing position. Lock the wheels in place with the spring rings though the deck anti skid wheel shaft pins. Lower the hydraulic lift handle next to the steering wheel and lower the mower deck into the mowing height.

16. Activate the PTO assembly and double check the deck operation. It should start and stop with the dash PTO knob. The PTO shaft will operate the deck in it's lowest position, its highest lifted position (for transport or you can mow at that height) and anywhere in between.

17. Mow and Enjoy...............Reverse the process to remove the deck.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks guys. I appreciate all the info. I have changed the gear oil in the deck gear box. Yes Sullybear it is a 93 which came with 23/10.50/12 rear tires. I swapped them for the bigger wheels. We are not ready to cut grass here yet, but i've been using it for yard chores and it seems to run strong. I think its a keeper until i find one with way less hours on it and toys on the back.


Does that 430 really have 8K on it? Wow
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The amount of hours on your tractor is impressive, but what is even more so to me is that someone effectively spent the equivalent of 4 working years sitting on that tractor. Presumably you?
JD started making 430's in 1984. Thats 35 years ago. Wow thats still over 200 hours a year.It cut a lot of grass. Kent
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I own a 1025r and I didn't purchase a MMM deck for it and its very unlikely I ever will. The 1025r isn't as good a mowing machine as the 455 in my opinion and I own both. The 455 is from the era before the "Drive Over decks" came into the marketplace. That means the deck depth is high, which gives it excellent air flow and lift capabilities with Gator Blades. The extra depth of the 455 60" deck is a large part of why its such a great mowing lawn and garden tractor.

The 455 is actually a very nice mowing machine if you set it up correctly. Use the Gator Blades and on that machine, its very likely the deck is square on the machine despite its age as that thing is built like a tank. It's hard to knock the deck out of square unless you collide the deck with something and I can tell you that I have seen the machine brought to a stop while mowing by catching the deck on something and rarely does it do anything to the deck height or squareness.

If the guy you bought it from hadn't changed the gear box oil on the mower deck it would be a good idea to do so. Some of the gear boxes on the 455 use a tapered threaded plug which can be a bear to get out if it hasn't been out in some time. It's an allen plug if I recall and use a very good quality allen socket on it as any cheap China tools will likely give you bloody knuckles. You will likely need a breaker bar on the allen socket.

I have one of those machines I have had since new. I have 3,000 hours on it and its been an excellent machine. I would like to restore mine once I get my new shop building.

One of the very few negatives about the machine is that they can be quite warm to mow with as the radiator is just in front of the dash, under the gauges. The cooling fan actually blows the air towards you to cool the engine and it draws the fresh air into the side panels. So, if you get into dirty dusty mowing conditions, as the operator, you will get dusty.

1,600 hours is low if the machine has been serviced as it should be. That is an early machine in the 455 production, I am going to say by looking at the pictures, its a 1993 or 1994.

Here is the breakdown

Serial number

1993: 010001
1994: 020001
1995: 030001
1996: 040001
1997: 050001
1998: 060001
1999: 070001
2000: 080001
2001: 090001


Mower Deck Installation Procedure for Non Drive Over 60" Deck (from someone who has had it on and off the tractor dozens if not a hundred times and learned what works and what doesnt.)

The 60" mower on the 455 is a nut buster for sure to put on and take off the machine. The easiest way to put the deck on and take it off the 455 is as follows;

1. Always remove and install this deck on a smooth hard surface like a garage floor or driveway. Make every reasonable effort to AVOID putting this deck on or taking it off on the lawn or a soft surface. Take this as gospel from someone who knows the importance of being able to easily move this heavy deck (400# plus). It is far easier to remove and install on a hard smooth surface.

2. Make sure the deck lift mechanism is fully cranked DOWN to allow the lift arms to go as low as possible. Once cranked down, hydraulically raise the lift arms as high as they will go.

3. Rotate the deck anti skid wheels and axles and pin the wheels in the position to roll the deck sideways. Three of the wheels can be rotated while the right front wheel is on a spring loaded spindle and will turn with the deck movement. When the deck is on the tractor make sure to do this wheel rotation before you attempt to remove it or it becomes a double nut buster. If the deck is on the floor With the wheels turned, its easier to get under the tractor. If the deck is not on the tractor and the wheels are not rotated for install, slide a floor jack under the deck and lift the front and rear independently and rotate the wheels for install direction.

4. Put a floor jack under the front center pivot of the tractor and jack it up about a foot. Turn the front wheels to the right to the end of the turn stop. Turn the tractor off.

5. Remove the deck spindle and belt guards and clean out all the debris. Grease the center spindle fitting on each spindle on the mower deck and also the deck belt tension arm grease fittings. (If you don't clean under the belt and spindle guards, you will likely miss grease fittings). Grease the driveshaft U Joints on each end of the PTO shaft and also the Shaft slide grease fitting for when the PTO shaft it compressed or extended during install. Grease the anti skid wheel fittings and the right front deck wheel spring loaded spindle. Reinstall all belt guards.

6. Fold the driveshaft across the rear of the deck with the end which connects to the male PTO on the tractor, towards the right side of the deck.

7. Make sure the male PTO shaft on the rear trans axle case is clean. Make sure to remove the grass and other debris which gets wrapped around the base of the shaft very tightly. The grass packs into the seal area and gets dirty from the grease and dirt and often isn't as easy to see as you might think. Use a flash light to make sure you have cleaned this area completely. You may need to use needle nose pliers or something with a point to remove all the debris around the base of the shaft. Be very careful with the sharp point to not puncture the PTO shaft seal. Once the debris is all removed and the seal area is clean, then coat the shaft with grease, specifically the tip of the shaft as it makes insertion easier ( about now you are wondering if this is a John Deere mower deck install instructions or the auspicious beginnings of a Penthouse forum letter. You decide.:laugh:)

8. Roll the deck under the machine from the starboard side (right) to the port side (left) of the tractor. The deck discharge chute should NEVER go under the machine as its much harder from that direction. Center the deck under the tractor so the deck lift points line up with the deck lift arms.

9. Lower the floor jack. Start the tractor and lower the deck lift arms and make sure the line up with the lift points. You may need to adjust the deck position for the lift arms to land between the deck mounted lift brackets. Do NOT connect the lift arms quite yet, just use their position to make sure the deck is properly placed and aligned under the tractor, side to side and front to rear.

10. Install the front mower deck support assembly, hook it through the deck arms on the front and put the cross bar in the frame brackets on the front of the tractor. Swing the front support up into place and secure the spring loaded ends. Note one end of the snap pins has a special position locking bracket on it. This must snap into place otherwise you have the bracket on upside down.

Snap into place on the front frame members of the tractor. This locks the front deck support arms in place. The front lift arms sweep upward from the deck mounting position towards the tractor deck. If you look at this assembly carefully, there is only one way for the lift to mount.

11. Start the tractor and Lower rear deck lift / support arms into the deck lift points. Connect the deck lift arms to the deck assembly and secure to the deck with the spring loaded J Pins on the arms.

12. With the deck still on the ground on the wheels, lay on the side of the tractor and reach under and slide the deck PTO shaft on to the male PTO shaft. Which side you lay on depends upon if you are right handed or left handed. Once you have become familiar with the shaft connection, you can reach around from the rear of the tractor under the rear end and connect the shaft.

You may have to rotate the PTO shaft to get the splines to align. The easiest way to roate the shaft is to turn it by hand. If you are not able to do that, reach in to the deck discharge chute and rotate the mower blades slightly to turn the PTO shaft so it lines up with the male shaft on the trans axle. Sometimes, it takes a couple of small turns of the deck PTO shaft to line the splines up.

13. Pull the lock collar back on the PTO shaft and slide the PTO shaft from the deck onto the male PTO shaft on the rear axles assembly. Make sure the PTO lock collar snaps into place and locks the PTO shaft onto the tractor. Pull on the PTO shaft towards the front of the tractor to make sure the PTO shaft is secure. It should not move forward or backwards on the PTO shaft once the PTO collar is locked.

The reason you make sure the debris at the base of the male shaft is cleared and removed is otherwise, the PTO shaft lock collar will not shap into place and the PTO shaft could come off the male shaft which would be very bad as the rotating shaft would be flailing around under the tractor likely damaging the hydro filter and other assemblies.

14. Lift the hydraulic handle on the dash column to the right of the steering wheel and raise the deck to its full up position. Crank the deck height knob several turns clockwise to increase the deck height. Lower the control handle and determine the deck height in its down position. Anytime you need to raise or lower the deck height, lift it with the console hydraulic lever removing the weight off the deck support arms and adjust the deck height knob on the operator platform between the feet wells. You can crank the deck height adjustment knob with the weight of the deck on it but it is very hard on the deck height adjustment hardware and plastic crank knob.

15. With the deck raised to its maximum lifted position, Rotate the deck wheels and put the pins back in place with the wheels in the forward facing position. Lock the wheels in place with the spring rings though the deck anti skid wheel shaft pins. Lower the hydraulic lift handle next to the steering wheel and lower the mower deck into the mowing height.

16. Activate the PTO assembly and double check the deck operation. It should start and stop with the dash PTO knob. The PTO shaft will operate the deck in it's lowest position, its highest lifted position (for transport or you can mow at that height) and anywhere in between.

17. Mow and Enjoy...............Reverse the process to remove the deck.
Thanks Sulleybear. I just installed my deck after reading your instructions and the deck went on easy. Kent
 
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