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I have a 2018 1025R. The front 54" snow blower is being put on today along with my new Mauser cab. I have a JD ballast box approx. 500-ish lbs. Tires not filled and no wheel weights. I'm not a little guy, about 240 lbs. So is the front going to feel light or will this work out ok as is?

Thanks for the help
 

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That should work perfectly, but I don't have a cab to really have a sense of how it changes weight. I got my setup at the tail end of last winter and used the empty ballast box with two 42lb suitcase weights in it and felt like it was a good balance (I'm about 40lbs heavier than you and only have to snow blow flat land). This year I'm trying to build a weight bracket similar to the Heavy Hitch as the ballast box does add a couple extra feet to the rear of the tractor and gets in the way for me at times, but have the ballast box loaded with about 450lbs of sand bags in case I feel I need more traction.

My previous X730 came with two 42lb suitcase weights for use as ballast, and I added two more for traction so the dealer must not have felt it needed much. I believe the snowblower only weights about 250lbs or so.
 
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I tried to use the ballast box one winter for a little extra traction. It didn't go well. The 47" blower in float mode doesn't add much weight to the front, but my ballast box weighs a lot. I had NO steering ability on the snow with it on. No cab, loaded rear tires, and a 250# operator... If I put the ballast box on without the loader on the front, the front end feels like it's just skimming the ground.

Try it with the box on, if you can't steer in the snow/ice, take it off.
 
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I have a 2018 1025R. The front 54" snow blower is being put on today along with my new Mauser cab. I have a JD ballast box approx. 500-ish lbs. Tires not filled and no wheel weights. I'm not a little guy, about 240 lbs. So is the front going to feel light or will this work out ok as is?

Thanks for the help
That is a little more than I use (~200#) but should work perfectly. I do not think I needed that much, but going naked this year (no chains) so may need every bit of what I use.
 

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Can't help with the original question, but be sure to read the other posts on here about the front glass breaking on these cabs and how to prevent it. :bigthumb:
 

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500# may be a little much, you'll find out one way or another. I put my ballast box on once last winter using a FEL mounted plow but still the same concept, when the blade was on the ground I literally could not steer. 8 42 lb suitcase weights seemed to be the ticket, place around a little with the weight and you'll find what works the best for you.
 

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I was out today clearing snow with the 60HD broom. Don’t quote me but I would say it’s the heaviest attachment you can put on the quick hitch. I don’t have a cab but my ballast box is around 400#. Doesn’t matter what I take out or put it I find you’ll always be able to spin tires. I do find the 1025 usually understeers.

Then again I do have a “sporty” style of driving it. I would like to try the turf tires vs r4 as I feel that would give a significant advantage.

I have 2 sets for my skidsteer a similar r4 style that is unstoppable in mud and a snow tire for snow removal which you could get stuck in wet grass but on snow and ice they’re great
 

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If I put the ballast box on without the loader on the front, the front end feels like it's just skimming the ground.
I have a fairly steep ramp (3 foot long, 1 foot high) into a shed I store the implements in for the winter. I ditched the loader and forgot I had the ballast box with 450lbs of sand on it on the back. I got quite the surprise when I started backing out and the tractor became a teeter-totter. If I hadn't had the sense to drop the box quick it would have become a drag race anti-roll bar..

Then again I do have a “sporty” style of driving it. I would like to try the turf tires vs r4 as I feel that would give a significant advantage.
I love my R3s in the snow. The ones that came on mine are fairly meaty and have given me awesome traction whether I'm doing my driveway or yard for trailer parking.
 
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Been snow blowing for years now with same 54” blower and I don’t have any weight of any kind and tractor performs flawlessly. No box, no weights, nothing. It has the turf tires no chains. But I do have high density plastic skids on the blower’s skies. Skids makes it slide nice on the black top without damage or scrap marks. With the 4WD it goes thru anything. It fact have not even used the lock rear axle.
 

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Im just waiting to see the person that adds to much weight to the rear to the point they can't steer, then start adding weight to the front to help out steering traction.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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I have a 2018 1025R. The front 54" snow blower is being put on today along with my new Mauser cab. I have a JD ballast box approx. 500-ish lbs. Tires not filled and no wheel weights. I'm not a little guy, about 240 lbs. So is the front going to feel light or will this work out ok as is?

Thanks for the help
14decoys... I recognize the intent of your post concerned ballast and many have commented on what has worked for them. For our 2520 with 54" snowblower, eight 42# weights on the HeavyHitch has worked fine over the last 4-5 years.

What I would like to add without taking away from your original question is traction. There are plenty of threads in GTT regarding, R4's vs Turfs or chains vs no chains. Again, as everyone's situation is a bit different and not knowing what surface or surfaces you might be blowing on, I would further suggest you search the forum concerning SIPING if you have the R4's. I did this exercise a couple of years ago and noticed a significant difference (I am on concrete and asphalt). The only minor negative I have found in regards to siping, is the snow staying in the grooves when you are finished and park in a heated garage. But this is a very minor distraction. Below is one such thread that can be found here in GTT.

The GTT Community Pass-Along Traveling Tire Groover
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sounds like several different ways to go...... I'll just have to see what works for me and make needed adjustments. I appreciate all of the replys. I really need to look into siping the R4s and the high density plastic skis for the blower. I have A flat concrete drive and in the past used a 54" blade on my 720. First time with a blower so we will see how it goes! I'm fairly certain I'll like the heater!!!
 

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I have a 54" blower, run turf tires and use no ballast. Works fine for me on and off asphalt, up and down hills.
 

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I use a BB with mine and a Tektite Cab. BB has 250lbs of sand bags in it. Never had an issue with steering.
 

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I ran across this today while I was reading the snow blower manual so I thought I would post the links.

Here is the link to the manual: LINK

The "Installing Ballast" section is pretty short. It states:

Required ballast:

• Two tire weights

To improve traction:


NOTE: Certain working conditions may be improved by using tire chains or rear ballast.

• Install chains on rear drive tires.

• Install wheel weights on rear drive wheels.

• Install liquid ballast in rear drive tires.

• Install ballast box and weight.
I personally use just my ballast box with 280 pounds of sand (four 70# sand bags from Menards) and it works great. The only time I lose steering is because I'm not using "float" mode and I'm putting too much downward pressure on the snow blower and lifting the front end of the tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I ran across this today while I was reading the snow blower manual so I thought I would post the links.

Here is the link to the manual: LINK

The "Installing Ballast" section is pretty short. It states:



I personally use just my ballast box with 280 pounds of sand (four 70# sand bags from Menards) and it works great. The only time I lose steering is because I'm not using "float" mode and I'm putting too much downward pressure on the snow blower and lifting the front end of the tractor.
Sounds like the cab alone may be sufficient.
 

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No matter how which cab you have, it wouldnt be the sqme qs weight hanging 3 ft behind the center of the axle. The cab will add some weight to the rear BUT would actually add SOME, Maybe most, to the front axle. Unless you are in a place where there is no chance of more than a couple inches just ass the weight off 5he back. If your front is light you can back off but if there is q chnce you could be blowing 6 or 8 inches you want all the weight you cqn safely handle. Why skimp?
 

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I have used my 1026R and 47" Blower with no Ballast for several years. I have Turf Tires with tire chains and the TekTite Cab. Just this year I added two wheel weights to each tire rear tire for more weight down low as the unit has always felt top heavy. I did not add the weight for traction, just to lower the center of gravity. Last night I used the setup for the first time this year and I can still spin the tires if I am not careful. Other than that I find no difference between this year and years past. I still have not built up the hard pac I try for to protect the gravel drive so I don't know how it will react when the drive is in full winter mode. I don't think it will make much difference. I have always felt the front end is a little light and some times I have to lift the blower to make it turn, my 445 is the same way on turning so I just chalk it up to the nature of the beast and live with it. I have been blowing and plowing this same driveway since the winter of 93/94 so I know what works for me. Normal blowing time for my yard is about two hours give or take 15 to 30 minutes. Last night I spent 1 1/4 hours and I did not do in front of the barn which will take about 20 to 30 minutes to finish. Suppose to be about 40-45 on Thursday so I probably will let the barn go until the week end if I do it before the next snow event. You have to love Lake Effect.
 

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No matter how which cab you have, it wouldnt be the sqme qs weight hanging 3 ft behind the center of the axle. The cab will add some weight to the rear BUT would actually add SOME, Maybe most, to the front axle. Unless you are in a place where there is no chance of more than a couple inches just ass the weight off 5he back. If your front is light you can back off but if there is q chnce you could be blowing 6 or 8 inches you want all the weight you cqn safely handle. Why skimp?
Hiwire, you just got your new tractor, didn't you? Thought I recognized your name. I, for what it's worth, posted several replies on your thread. Sounded like you finally negotiated a very good deal. How do you like it so far?

Anyways, I don't have a horse in this race (because I plow), but I like to learn about the things I don't know. I have a Mauser cab on my 1025R and the rear axle carries the bulk of the cab's weight. Seems like the guys that use snow blowers have the delicate task of adjusting weight for steering, traction and ballast to reduce front axle stress. Then there is always a safety factor to consider. Without rear traction, no brakes. I, like you, feel we should use some 3 point ballast. Moral of the story is: How much weight is right amount of weight? As you basically stated above, add some, take some off, until you are happy with particular configuration. :unknown:
 
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