Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I keep thinking about adding more lighting to the tractor, in particular for the nighttime after-work snow clearing that seems to happen a few times a year. I’m out in the boonies with no roadside lighting or city light pollution to help illuminate things. I need more forward lighting to really see and need back lighting so I can stop using the backhoe as an indicator of when to stop. (Bump. “I guess that’s far enough.”)

So I’ve looked a bit at some light bars. How much do I need 27 watt? 120 watt? 240 watt? I don’t know if 240 is overkill. The stock headlights (50w x2) and the work lights (37.5w x2) = 170 watts... but that’s not lumen. How many lumen does that push out? I need more, but how much?

I’ve seen lots of people adding the smaller round or square 27-35 watt LED lights. (Which is actually x2 output with two of them.) But is that enough? Doubling distance requires 4x the power to light, so...

Any feedback appreciated.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,971 Posts
Keep in mind that as a slow moving vehicle you don't really need to illuminate 100 yards out in front of the tractor. Likewise with behind the tractor. You are better off with lights that have a broader pattern.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,887 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,520 Posts
I have a small light bar mounted to sunshade from in front and small round mounted in back. Both a cheapies from Tractor Supply. They do an awesome job. The front light being high and forward really gets out in front of the snow Pusher.


49B47AED-24FA-4687-B924-5D0945F531D9.jpg
77F45296-E4AE-4524-A62A-2EDD848DB303.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
597 Posts
You probably want to decide on how you will be powering them. If you use the stock work light circuit look up how many amps that can provide. On a 2032/38r that was 20 amps. The other option is trigger a relay off that circuit to get more power. I ended up up putting ~240 watts worth of LEDs on mine basically maxing the circuit (I didn’t even think to check before). It’s plenty of light IMHO.

2032R/2038R ROPS lights
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=37868&share_tid=129050&share_pid=2442802&url=http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2442802&share_type=t


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2017 2038r 72” MMM Command Cut 220r loader
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,545 Posts
Keep in mind that as a slow moving vehicle you don't really need to illuminate 100 yards out in front of the tractor. Likewise with behind the tractor. You are better off with lights that have a broader pattern.
This right here is what I would have said as well. You don't need to see very far as fast as these tractors are, I have floods on mine and it lights up about 50-60 ft in front and behind me like a football field under the lights.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Thanks for the feedback, all. I'm not yet set on how to power the lights, as I'm not sure if I want to add some extra switches to control them or not. If I want the existing work lights on, I would probably want the additional lights I'm thinking about adding, too. So then they don't need an extra switch. But, the flexibility of turning on/off what I need could be useful... If the draw is small enough I could just plug into the stock harness, which sounds easy, but I'm not opposed to running some new wire. Really, I just want to do this once and in my mind that means I need to figure out how much lighting I need to be comfortable seeing.

I don't need to see far, you're right. Forward, I'm not sure I need to see any further at all, in fact. But I think adding some lights higher-up will prove far more useful than the headlights just because the loader or snowblower won't be in the way. Also, light from a different angle should help add dimension to the ground in front of me even if it's just helping to make the glassy texture of the snow come through. (My photography experience comes through here: am I adding some fill or a new key light? :laugh:)

Keep the comments coming!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
597 Posts
I wouldn’t bother adding additional switches. I’ve never found that I wanted any thing between the two stock light settings. Easier to just tie into the stock work light circuit that’s already nicely switched.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2017 2038r 72” MMM Command Cut 220r loader
 

·
Old Pa-pa
Joined
·
11,417 Posts
Thanks for the feedback, all. I'm not yet set on how to power the lights, as I'm not sure if I want to add some extra switches to control them or not. If I want the existing work lights on, I would probably want the additional lights I'm thinking about adding, too. So then they don't need an extra switch. But, the flexibility of turning on/off what I need could be useful... If the draw is small enough I could just plug into the stock harness, which sounds easy, but I'm not opposed to running some new wire. Really, I just want to do this once and in my mind that means I need to figure out how much lighting I need to be comfortable seeing.

I don't need to see far, you're right. Forward, I'm not sure I need to see any further at all, in fact. But I think adding some lights higher-up will prove far more useful than the headlights just because the loader or snowblower won't be in the way. Also, light from a different angle should help add dimension to the ground in front of me even if it's just helping to make the glassy texture of the snow come through. (My photography experience comes through here: am I adding some fill or a new key light? :laugh:)

Keep the comments coming!
Not a SCUT, but a Z Trak that had no factory lights.

Added 4 LED flood lights (10,060 Lumens total light output) to it.

Two 2880 Lumen flood lights on the ROP. (3.17 Amp/48 Watt each)
Two 2150 Lumen flood lights up front, low. (1.98 Amp/ 27 Watt each)

10.3 Amps total current draw, all lights on.

The Yanmar diesel on the ZT has a 40 Amp alternator so 10.3 Amps is no problem and
the light output is awesome for mowing at night.

Just to give you an idea about Watt versus Lumen comparison an example of light output and a rough conversion chart:
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
597 Posts
240 watts is 20-amps at 12VDC. Can your alternator put out that much juice?
I never checked that but the work like circuit is rated for 20 amps so I’d hope they too into account alternator output.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2017 2038r 72” MMM Command Cut 220r loader
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
I needed more light when using the front end loader. fender lights and headlights weren't high enough to shine past bucket.
I added a cheap set of $30 E-bay LED spot/flood combo lights to the top of my ROPS and upgraded headlight bulbs.
I don't remember how many watts the lights are, i know they don't draw many amps.
I now have all the light I could ever need.
I need to put a switch on the ROPS lights because they put off too much light sometimes.

here are some pics (don't mind the garage, it is all organized now :laugh: )
IMG_0400.jpg
IMG_0401.jpg
IMG_0407.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,753 Posts
You also need to keep in mind the capacity of your alternator. A stock 1025R is 40 amps. Current draw isn't much of an issue with LEDs. However, the lamp icing up can be an issue with an LED in certain weather, as they don't generate enough heat to melt it, like a halogen does. You can calculate current draw by dividing the watt rating by voltage (12 volts) and the result is the current draw in amps.

I have cabs on my 1025Rs, for the winter months. I re-located the fender top work lamps to the cab top front with the mounting kit option form the cab manufacturer. I added the same halogen work lamp on a single rear facing mount at the top center of the cab. They do everything I need them to do when I'm blowing snow. I just extended the factory wiring, with disconnect plugs, so there is no added switches or fusing required.

Blowing snow without a cab is like having a home with central AC. Once you have it, you'll never be without it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,563 Posts
You also need to keep in mind the capacity of your alternator. A stock 1025R is 40 amps. Current draw isn't much of an issue with LEDs. However, the lamp icing up can be an issue with an LED in certain weather, as they don't generate enough heat to melt it, like a halogen does. You can calculate current draw by dividing the watt rating by voltage (12 volts) and the result is the current draw in amps.

I have cabs on my 1025Rs, for the winter months. I re-located the fender top work lamps to the cab top front with the mounting kit option form the cab manufacturer. I added the same halogen work lamp on a single rear facing mount at the top center of the cab. They do everything I need them to do when I'm blowing snow. I just extended the factory wiring, with disconnect plugs, so there is no added switches or fusing required.

Blowing snow without a cab is like having a home with central AC. Once you have it, you'll never be without it.
I have both. The only real place you need lights is for reverse. The rest is over kill.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
What size u-bolts are you all using to attach LEDs to the ROPs and where do you get them? The ROPS is 2"x3" on the 2038R, but not sure what size would actually be needed for aftermarket lights.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,971 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,587 Posts
I just tied straight into wireharness in the back. Got some hella strong magnets so I could always move them. I have 2 facing the front & 1 facing the rear. Since I have them on magnets I can put the ROPS up or down and just adjust the lights.
As mentioned above. Get flood lights not spot lights. I can see wayyyy more than I need. All lights turn on by the stock light switch.


Read through the thread at the bottom here. It may answer a lot of questions. Feel free to ask me anything or get you any pictures. Or links.


Here’s the wire harness you can use. Cut it in half to use for both sides
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr..._id=2140621194

Really really strong magnets
CMS Magnetics 173 Pound Holding Power Neodymium Cup Magnet with Eyebolt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GZDNVQ0..._T4LeAb2SVMWWX


Go check this thread out
https://www.greentractortalk.com/foru...et-mounts.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
597 Posts
What size u-bolts are you all using to attach LEDs to the ROPs and where do you get them? The ROPS is 2"x3" on the 2038R, but not sure what size would actually be needed for aftermarket lights.
I used a piece of stiff hose that I squashed between a flat bar that I through bolted the lights to. Then I use some large hose clamps to squash the hose between the ROPS and flat bar. I just barely rub my garage door with the ROPS up and so I didn’t want the extra height of U-bolts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2017 2038r 72” MMM Command Cut 220r loader
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
Cheap easy simple ROPS LED lights

20141016_162601.jpg
20151115_141858.jpg
20141017_171240.jpg

I sometimes need to plow or snowblow after dark, which cam be 4:30 in the afternoon here in NW Wisc.
I use 4 Ironton 3 watt 1,200 Lumen output LED worklights, 2 forward & 2 reverse for the snowblower.
The LED lights are simply wired into the existing tractor lights on the ROPS, all 4 only draw 12 watts.
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200615334_200615334
Needless to say, I drive very slowly & carefully and also snow reflects a lot of light, so less is good here.
The amber lightbar is necessary as my driveway joins up to a state highway.
I added a lighted rocker switch to turn OFF the headlights as they just reflect against the bucket anyway.
I use the bucket to move the solid packed snow piles.
I never move dirt or dig at night just as it's too dangerous to see.
Thanks.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top