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Here is a two-part article written about chains, binders and straps and how not to use them.
 

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Good stuff Kenny. I think that qualifies as "work". I can legitimately study this during work hours. :thumbup1gif:
 
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Yes Don, please do. The author Fritz is well respected in the towing industry and VP at BA Products, a great company


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I see the advantage of ratchet style chain binders, easy to get real tight without a cheater and still be safe.

The lever style can be too loose; try and take up one more chain link and they will be too tight.

I have never tried or considered any kind of cheater on ratchet straps. Cheap ones you can damage by hand.
 
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Now, as you drive down the interstate, realize that every tractor trailer that you see with a chained down load.....


USED A CHEATER BAR!

Drive safe. :lol:
 

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If you can get it to cam over with a 6' cheater, it's not too tight. :thumbup1gif:

Another option, if you have a portable compressor (and your load has tires), is to air down the tires and then chain it down, then air the tires back up to add more tension.

Every private contractor I've talked to in recent memory has gotten rid of the cam style binders and gone to ratchets. Much easier to get on/off without whacking knuckles or getting poled in the face with your cheater pipe.
 

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Now, as you drive down the interstate, realize that every tractor trailer that you see with a chained down load.....


USED A CHEATER BAR!

Drive safe. :lol:
Yes...what surprised me was he was able to almost exceed the WLL by hand.
 
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Some pretty good reading.

It seems that the straps are really easy to overload. Makes me wonder about the strap winches that are on the side of a flatbed and the tool for tightening them is a 3 foot bar. I've seen some pretty big guys put all their body weight into tying down a load of lumber or pipe.

I've got several of the lever style binders however recently I bought a ratchet style binder. I found one that was made in the USA and thought it was an antique and for the price I couldn't pass it up! I still use the old style on the front of the tractor and the ratchet on the rear. I get the front snug and I don't use a cheater bar. I know what kinda pull down you can get and I don't want the stress on my frame or frontend. I put the tractor in neutral and then use the ratchet on the rear chain to draw everything up.

I've been thinking of getting a couple of the web style ratchets that have a short piece of chain on the end for the front of the tractor. I only need the chain on one end where it connects to the tractor. Figured this would be pretty efficient and I wouldn't need to mess with the binders.
 

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Now, as you drive down the interstate, realize that every tractor trailer that you see with a chained down load.....


USED A CHEATER BAR!

Drive safe. :lol:
rtgt; when I hauled or should I say pulled a flat bed around for 4 yrs, I used ratchet binders, no snap binders for me, this was my own equipment, I never had anything fall off my trailer, never had a claim(damage to the freight) in the 4 yrs. this was in the mid 1990's and just about everybody back then had went to the ratchet binders because of snap binders. now what I would of really liked to of had if could of had then; 1-- a new 48ft aluminan spread axle trailer with a sliding strap winch track under both sides of trailer. and with that u used a piece of pipe or should I say a solid bar with a bent hook at end to tighten the straps down. these tracks was just getting started to tying down round pipe back then. watching u-tube these have come a long way since then. and also I stopped every couple hrs and crawled up in side and checked my binders to make sure they was tight yet. with the ratch binders and using rubber chain protectors I could not hardly gain a 1/4 turn, and that's mainly why every body went with them. less dangerous to the user and held better. so not every body used a cheater pipe pulling a flatbed. now where u probably will see snap binders in use is hauling timber, u have a wide open area to pull binder down to snap it with a cheater pipe and ur wood will give some. every body is required to stop every 3hrs or used to be 150 miles to double check ur load. to see id anything has come loose. I have had dot guys crawl up in my trailer to double check what was on my log book even back then. and I think a lot of it depends on how u drive too. just wanted to add, in 1985 when coal mines shut down, is the first time I hauled flatbed and no side kit. I had to use snap binders then and hated them, to try and tie down steel coils. so when I got my own, I went with ratchet binders, still have them in shed yet. big jim
 

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As an Owner/Operator you get to make the choice. You made a good choice.

A company driver gets to use what the boss provides. I hauled primarily hauled equipment, and the boss (Uncle Sam :usa) gave me binders.

As a civilian driver I mostly drug around dry vans or refers. Dad was an OO, however he ran for Tull Steel for many years. He didn't want anything more to do with flatbeds. :lol: but then he went and got into car hauling. :banghead: Good money, but a lot of work.
 

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As an Owner/Operator you get to make the choice. You made a good choice.

A company driver gets to use what the boss provides. I hauled primarily hauled equipment, and the boss (Uncle Sam :usa) gave me binders.

As a civilian driver I mostly drug around dry vans or refers. Dad was an OO, however he ran for Tull Steel for many years. He didn't want anything more to do with flatbeds. :lol: but then he went and got into car hauling. :banghead: Good money, but a lot of work.
rtgt; never hauled cars; don't think I could of got out of the little bit of space between door and trailer frame work, and I never was a fan of high places. now they say these newer car haulers aren't nothing like the old ones. don't matter now, them days are over . I also pulled dry vans but never ran the reefer ones, one experience with a load of watermelons over the 4 of july that was to come to my area and then got resold while on my trailer to a dock in kanas city mo. left a very bad taste for sure. this was told to me after I waited to load in field for 2 days in Georgia. I should of just told them to unload them in the field but I tried to make the best of a bad deal, u never know what each day is going to bring. should of bought the workers 2 6packs of beer, and won't do it. ginixed myself.
 
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Ratchet binders are on my wish/want list.................thanks kennyd
Then sell all my lever binders.
 
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When I hauled the tractor home from SD, all I had were the cam binders because I was renting them with the trailer. There was no way to get those things anything close to tight enough without the pipe. They also tried sending me down the road with the two chains on the trailer. No way to lash it down good with how those were set up, and as it turned out, I needed the extra chains just to keep my bucket from getting loose.

I've been using 2" and 3" nylon ratchet straps for hauling machinery (up to 5Klbs) for the past few years and the goal has always been to prevent movement at all. Block the base of the machine to the trailer deck to keep it from sliding (why decks should be wood and need replacing every once in a while - you screw the blocking into it), then keep the top of it from coming over or bouncing when you hit the bad pavement.

I've always matched or exceeded the load with the rating of the straps though. I use 2 1Klb straps and a safety chain just hauling my 800# atv. Safety chain is probably plenty, but I don't like seeing it hopping around back there on rough pavement.
 

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When I hauled the tractor home from SD, all I had were the cam binders because I was renting them with the trailer. There was no way to get those things anything close to tight enough without the pipe. They also tried sending me down the road with the two chains on the trailer. No way to lash it down good with how those were set up, and as it turned out, I needed the extra chains just to keep my bucket from getting loose.

I've been using 2" and 3" nylon ratchet straps for hauling machinery (up to 5Klbs) for the past few years and the goal has always been to prevent movement at all. Block the base of the machine to the trailer deck to keep it from sliding (why decks should be wood and need replacing every once in a while - you screw the blocking into it), then keep the top of it from coming over or bouncing when you hit the bad pavement.

I've always matched or exceeded the load with the rating of the straps though. I use 2 1Klb straps and a safety chain just hauling my 800# atv. Safety chain is probably plenty, but I don't like seeing it hopping around back there on rough pavement.
In my state attachments must ALSO be secured. A loader bucket would be considered an attachment
 

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I posted pics of how I lashed that thing down in my thread on bringing it home on here. I would've bought more straps had I not been able to get it tight enough to pass my gut feeling with the chains. I pinned it between the machine and the trailer frame, then chained the machine down over it, and then chained the bucket between the machine and trailer. Last chain was across the back to keep it from lifting up or moving forward (although it would've been really hard for the tractor to go forward how it was held up front).

I like rolling next to big loads on the freeway. When I see what looks like good rigging, I'm ok with them being ahead of me. If it's scary, I put the hammer down so they can drop chit behind me all they want, but not in front! :)
 
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