Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Planning on adding some side magnetic lights (Thank you forum) to the ROP bar (on the sides) along with a LED bar on the upper part of the ROP bar. I would like to knock out the dummy rocker switch plate, but I was trying to figure out the best access to get the wiring behind the steering wheel?

Thanks,
Mark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,782 Posts
I used the same rocker blank for switching new LED lights.
Removing the engine side covers gives you some access behind dash, albeit it's tight.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,130 Posts
I used the same rocker blank for switching new LED lights.
Removing the engine side covers gives you some access behind dash, albeit it's tight.
^^^^^ What he said ^^^^^ Tight but it can be done . Good luck and post some pics . :bigbeer:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,091 Posts
I used the same rocker blank for switching new LED lights.
Removing the engine side covers gives you some access behind dash, albeit it's tight
.
Yep, same thing I did . . . actually added two, front and rear light switches. :thumbup1gif:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Just did that job on my 1025R

You can get a black rocker on/off switch that will be just a little bigger than the blank cover from Auto Zone. Just a little filing will make that rocker switch fit perfectly. I was "told" to be careful on the way you hook up the LED's since it makes a difference on them to correctly hook the + to the + wire on them. Don't know if that's true or not, but that is what I followed. I also put a short dog chain on each LED mount for safety just in case a tree limb pushed it off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,086 Posts
Planning on adding some side magnetic lights (Thank you forum) to the ROP bar (on the sides) along with a LED bar on the upper part of the ROP bar. I would like to knock out the dummy rocker switch plate, but I was trying to figure out the best access to get the wiring behind the steering wheel?

Thanks,
Mark
I utilize a stainless steel rigid wire (two-way radio antenna rod) to fish them through the factory harness split loom. I open up the end of the loom near the console support rod, to the rear of the power distribution center & under the rear of the air cleaner. I insert the rod and push it through the loom into the console. I then attach ONE wire to the rod and pull it into the console. I then tape on the second wire to the first and pull it into the console. I keep going, one at a time, until I have all the wires desired into the console. I then pull back the excess length on those that were used as a pull wire.

Coating the wires with a wire pulling lubricant (typically used for pulling wires in conduit) really helps if it becomes difficult. Dishwashing soap can be used in a pinch, but a bit messier.

I installed the switch for the MCS hopper in that blank opening. I pulled in four #16 wires (supply & load) and another #18 for the switch backlighting.
 
  • Like
Reactions: chex313

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,973 Posts
You can get a black rocker on/off switch that will be just a little bigger than the blank cover from Auto Zone. Just a little filing will make that rocker switch fit perfectly. I was "told" to be careful on the way you hook up the LED's since it makes a difference on them to correctly hook the + to the + wire on them. Don't know if that's true or not, but that is what I followed. I also put a short dog chain on each LED mount for safety just in case a tree limb pushed it off.
Yup LED ‘s are sensitive to correct or incorrect polarity. They will only light up one way.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,003 Posts
  • Like
Reactions: joshn3448
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top