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How to bleed fuel filter - 2008 Dodge 3500 6.7L Cummins?

6913 Views 25 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  jgayman
I'm asking for my brother... he just changed the fuel filter and cannister on his 2008 Dodge 3500 with 6.7L Cummins. He followed some videos he found on-line about priming it. Says to turn the key on, wait 15-secs, key off... repeat 3-4 times. His truck only has the single filter inside the drivers side wheel well.

He's tried that and the truck will not start. He says he doesn't hear a fuel pump running but then again he never heard anything prior to changing the filter.

I suggested he open the drain petcock again and see if any fuel comes out of the cannister.

Any 2008 Dodge 6.7L Cummins folks out there that have some words of wisdom I can pass along?

[ Edit - he opened the cannister petcock and no fuel came out. ]
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They're supposed to be self-priming. I have a 5.9 and bumping the starter causes the lift pump to run for 30 seconds. If it's an in-tank pump it will be hard to hear.
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The 6.7 with the cp3 injection pump will draw fuel without a lift pump, as long as they don't loose prime. Could be his lift pump was already dead and it wasn't noticed, until it was needed to prime the filter. Since he had no fuel pressure at the petcock, his in tank pump could be dead. 6.7s also have a lift pump fuse, unlike 5.9s which get power directly from the ECU. 5.9s will run without a lift pump, too. Just not for very long, since the IP and it's electronics are cooled by fuel bypass. They (5.9) will also have a very noticeable lack of power, with a dead lift pump.
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Long story short, I had a 5.9 , truck stalled , thought I had a clogged filter , changed it out and truck wouldn’t start truck was three years old and had broken the sending unit at 1/2 full, my truck was out of fuel. Also the 5.9 had a manual prime pump on the injection pump, IDK if that’s the case with the 6.7 .
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Bump the starter but do not start the engine. As stated earlier this will cause the fuel pump to run for a longer period of time.
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Bump the starter but do not start the engine. As stated earlier this will cause the fuel pump to run for a longer period of time.
This is how my 07 ,6.7 primes. It takes a while.
The 6.7 with the cp3 injection pump will draw fuel without a lift pump, as long as they don't loose prime. Could be his lift pump was already dead and it wasn't noticed, until it was needed to prime the filter. Since he had no fuel pressure at the petcock, his in tank pump could be dead. 6.7s also have a lift pump fuse, unlike 5.9s which get power directly from the ECU. 5.9s will run without a lift pump, too. Just not for very long, since the IP and it's electronics are cooled by fuel bypass. They (5.9) will also have a very noticeable lack of power, with a dead lift pump.
I just got back from looking at the truck. Tried everything. There is no noise whatsoever from the fuel tank. We crawled under there and put our ear right near the tank and upon first key-on there is no 4-second noise and bumping the starter does not create any fuel pump noise.

He has one of those read-out gizmos for a diesel and prior to changing the fuel filter the fuel pressures were all showing normal.

We looked in the Owner's Manual and there is no mention of a fuse associated with the tank pump.

The filter hosuing (canister) remains bone dry. We even re-installed the original and still no fuel. We also tried bumping the starter with the canister removed thinking if the tank pump was working fuel should squirt out of the cannister housing but still nothing.
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Bump the starter but do not start the engine. As stated earlier this will cause the fuel pump to run for a longer period of time.
Tried that many times. There is no noise whatsoever coming from the fuel tank... no buzzing... no humming... nothing. Filter cannister remains dry.
The 6.7 with the cp3 injection pump will draw fuel without a lift pump, as long as they don't loose prime. Could be his lift pump was already dead and it wasn't noticed, until it was needed to prime the filter. Since he had no fuel pressure at the petcock, his in tank pump could be dead. 6.7s also have a lift pump fuse, unlike 5.9s which get power directly from the ECU. 5.9s will run without a lift pump, too. Just not for very long, since the IP and it's electronics are cooled by fuel bypass. They (5.9) will also have a very noticeable lack of power, with a dead lift pump.
We checked the Owner's Manual and there is no mention of a fuse associated with the lift pump.
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We checked the Owner's Manual and there is no mention of a fuse associated with the lift pump.
I stand corrected. Power for the lift pump is also powered directly by the ECM. You'll have to check for power from the ECM to lift pump.
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I confirmed with the local Dodge garage that the 6.7L Cummins will definitely run without the lift pump. That was the missing key for why it was working until the filter was changed.

We're going to try pressurizing the fuel tank to force fuel into the filter cannister. That way if it gets it running and he decides to take it to the garage we can avoid towing charges. The garage is only 15 minutes away.

I appreciate everyone's assistance.
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Best of luck to you. I would think that would work. Sorry to lead you astray about the fuse. I'm not as familiar with the 6.7 common rail, as I am with the 5.9, with the Bosch vp44. I am on the 7th lift pump, on my 2001. I finally set it up to run two pumps in parallel, with check valves, to prevent backflow to the tank should one of them fail. I have also had to replace the strainer basket in the tank three times. Twice or a bad fuel sending unit and once for a failed check valve, in the bottom of the strainer. I don't know about your 2008, but it is not necessary to drop the tank on mine, to replace the strainer basket. I can remove the bed bolts on the left side, loosen the bolts on the right side and jack the bed up, to get to the fuel strainer basket. If he decides to replace the lift pump himself, it would be worthwhile investigating if you can lift the box, instead of dropping the fuel tank.
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Best of luck to you. I would think that would work. Sorry to lead you astray about the fuse. I'm not as familiar with the 6.7 common rail, as I am with the 5.9, with the Bosch vp44. I am on the 7th lift pump, on my 2001. I finally set it up to run two pumps in parallel, with check valves, to prevent backflow to the tank should one of them fail. I have also had to replace the strainer basket in the tank three times. Twice or a bad fuel sending unit and once for a failed check valve, in the bottom of the strainer. I don't know about your 2008, but it is not necessary to drop the tank on mine, to replace the strainer basket. I can remove the bed bolts on the left side, loosen the bolts on the right side and jack the bed up, to get to the fuel strainer basket. If he decides to replace the lift pump himself, it would be worthwhile investigating if you can lift the box, instead of dropping the fuel tank.

No worries... I appreciated everyone's input. It seems like each model year of these trucks are configured a bit different.

I was joking with him about removing the bed. His truck is a duelly and it has a fifth wheel hitch installed. There are two hitch bolts in particular that go through the frame and are impossible to access without the truck being on a lift. He was joking about cutting a hole in the floor of his bed... at least I think he was joking. :)
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I always pre fill the filter and housing as full as possible to speed the priming process on diesels. .
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Are you just trying to get it running to get it to a shop? Either way the lift pump isn’t working and needs fixed.
Are you just trying to get it running to get it to a shop? Either way the lift pump isn’t working and needs fixed.
Yes, since the shop is only 15-mins away if he can get it running he can avoid needing a tow truck. :)
When I had the factory filter changed they always told me to start it and hold at 2000 rpm for a bit.

They had several they fought with trying to prime.

I have since ditched the Factory pump and filter and have a dual canister filter and pump mounted on frame.

With any luck this truck is a flat bed as the factory tank pump comes out the TOP.

Dodge has been Famous for this blunder...real pita.

FRONT tank or Rear ...??? Mine is a 50 gallon in rear between frame rails. AND PLASTIC.

I have NO bed so mine was a breeze to change...but made no difference....long story...Don't ever delete a Cab & Chassi truck. Whole different system than a standard 3500.
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When I had the factory filter changed they always told me to start it and hold at 2000 rpm for a bit.

They had several they fought with trying to prime.

I have since ditched the Factory pump and filter and have a dual canister filter and pump mounted on frame.

With any luck this truck is a flat bed as the factory tank pump comes out the TOP.
No, it’s a step-side dually with a 5th wheel hitch.

FRONT tank or Rear ...??? Mine is a 50 gallon in rear between frame rails. AND PLASTIC.
He told me it was a driver’s side 35 gallon tank - plastic.
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That is Probly the long skinny one forward of rear axle....Mine is Aft of Rear axle as I have No spare.

Should be able to drop tank vs pulll bed with 5 wheel all tied to frame...Thats not fun.

Maybe try and fill filter with fuel and see if you can get it to go.

Be carefull adding air to tank but that may coax some fuel into the lines.

Yes you should Hear the pump.

Lines to pump are the goofy plastic ones with some internal clip things.

Electrict wire to pump is another piece of Fine work.....Probly took 30 minutes to get mine off and I could see it.

Its an odd duck with a locking part that slides one way only then a struggle to get the plug free.

If rocks/winter/sand type stuff have got up there ....all that has to been blown /cleaned out to get the Big lock ring free to extract pump. Oh yeah...theres some big plastic sheild (useless) that will have to go first . Installing new pump with new gasket will require a BFH or the proper socket thing for lock ring.
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That is Probly the long skinny one forward of rear axle....Mine is Aft of Rear axle as I have No spare.
Yep, that’s what it looks like.

Be carefull adding air to tank but that may coax some fuel into the lines.
Tried a bit of air pressure, no go. Looks like it is going to get towed to the garage.
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