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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the 60 gallon sprayer with the folding 12 ft boom. The manual cutoff was 3 hoses and a pressure gauge. How do I plumb in an electrically activated cut off solenoid?
 

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I have the 60 gallon sprayer with the folding 12 ft boom. The manual cutoff was 3 hoses and a pressure gauge. How do I plumb in an electrically activated cut off solenoid?
Can you show us a diagram of how the hoses are plumbed from the pump out to the nozzles? Even a napkin drawing will do. :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I ran out to the shop and took a few photos, but I think that I can explain how everything connects. First, here is a Link to the control valve that it has. It is configured like this, facing it from the tractor side:
  • Pressure gauge in top port
  • PTO pump connected to port on right side (this line also T’s in the wand, so I’m guessing that the wand isn’t regulated by the pressure control valve)
  • Port on the left side is connected to a Bulkhead fitting near the bottom of the tank. A pressure control valve is also plumbed in to the port on the left side.
  • Rear port goes to the boom.
Photos follow:
 

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When you close that shut-off valve does it divert the fluid somewhere or does it just dead-head the pump?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
When you close that shut-off valve does it divert the fluid somewhere or does it just dead-head the pump?
It just cuts off flow to the boom, and Liquid is still flowing through the left side (that has the pressure regulator valve) because recirculation/agitation is still active. I’m not sure what is happening on the right side.
 

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So the electrically-activated solenoid that you want to install would also just cut off flow to the boom?
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I think so. That’s what I’m trying to figure out. Not sure if I should just plumb it into the line from the valve to the boom, or if it replaces the existing manual valve. I don’t have the solenoid in hand, and can’t find out much about it online. It’s the county line 2500b that tsc sells. I know that it works, but don’t know exactly to set it up.

I should probably just stop thinking about it and set it up to cut off flow to the boom, and leave the existing valve in place. But, maybe that would be too easy...
 

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I think so. That’s what I’m trying to figure out. Not sure if I should just plumb it into the line from the valve to the boom, or if it replaces the existing manual valve. I don’t have the solenoid in hand, and can’t find out much about it online. It’s the county line 2500b that tsc sells. I know that it works, but don’t know exactly to set it up.

I should probably just stop thinking about it and set it up to cut off flow to the boom, and leave the existing valve in place. But, maybe that would be too easy...
Given the complexity of the existing valve that was my thinking as well. That way you still have the ability to manually shut things off if necessary.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Given the complexity of the existing valve that was my thinking as well. That way you still have the ability to manually shut things off if necessary.
Yes, That would come in handy if the solenoid were to fail with a tank full of material.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Solenoid is on the way.I found one on ebay in original package for $35. It might take a while, but I’ll post my results afterimage get it hooked up.
 

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If the solenoid you get has the spade terminals on the top and you cannot find the connector for it, which I couldn’t, I just used regular female terminals and wrapped it up with rubber splicing tape. After it cured it had made a good sealed water tight connection. I have had no issues with it for at least 5 years.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So... I think that I have this figured out... Just replace the manual control valve with the solenoid valve. The factory controls are put together so well that I will probably just get a second pressure regulator valve, rather than dismantle them. The regulator is only about $25, and this would keep the factory setup intact so that I could quickly swap it back in if the solenoid fails. The next challenge will be to make a mounting plate. Sounds easy, but then it took me a month to figure out the obvious with the valve setup.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

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I don't see any reason to replace the manual control valve. That whole assembly can stay exactly as it is and will continue to handle pressure regulation. Just put the electric solenoid valve inline between the manual valve and the boom. Cut the hose, two hose barb fittings on the valve, and you're done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I don't see any reason to replace the manual control valve. That whole assembly can stay exactly as it is and will continue to handle pressure regulation. Just put the electric solenoid valve inline between the manual valve and the boom. Cut the hose, two hose barb fittings on the valve, and you're done.
Yes, that was the initial idea, until I fired up the overthinking machinery and was able to make it more complicated. simply tapping into the boom line and zip-tying it together is more in line with my skilll level.

I think that I will take your advice.
 
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