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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

New to tractor ownership and trying to understand all of my options. I purchased a used (30 hours) 2015 1025R TLB. It comes with a 54" snowblower (JD), 60" MMM, and a cab so its pretty loaded. I am also looking at picking up the frontier BB2048 and some pallet forks which look like they will be extremely useful. I have narrowed down the additional list to getting the tires filled with ballast, the imatch, and the final piece is the ballast box. Its the ballast box I have the most trouble with (expense/value). If I understand this correctly a ballast box can add an additional 600lbs to the tractor (box plus concrete), just using round numbers. I don't have a tractor to measure right now but if I look at a side view and using the JD spec for wheelbase, I am adding 600lbs to the rear, approximately 2 feet from the rear axle (round numbers) and the FEL sits 2 feet in front of the front axle at rest.. (again, just a guess). That's around 81" from the bucket load (center line) to the rear axle which puts the mechanical advantage of the ballast at 180(ish) lbs? Doesn't seem like a lot of relief for the front axle. Comparing that (180) to the entire tractor (1444+400(cab)+540(FEL)) that is 2380 lbs total or 8% of the total weight. From a mechanical advantage perspective it doesn't feel like much and have the weight centered actually does very little to improve lateral stability. Does it really make a difference? If you forgot to put the ballast box on one day would you notice or is it more about a comfort factor? Probably overthinking it and experience is probably a better guide here than the math.
 

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Shortly after I got my forks I used them to unload a 1000 lb pallet of wood pellets off the back of my pickup. I was in a bit of a rush and forgot to mount my ballast box. The machine quickly reminded me when I lifted that pallet and the rear wheels came up off the ground. This was with my 2032R (with loaded rear tires) but the same thing can happen with any machine.

Once I got my shorts cleaned out, I got the ballast box mounted and had no problems moving that pallet (and the 11 others that were just like it...).
 

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Welcome to GTT Earthling.
Not sure of the math or geometry of the 1025R but I will HIGHLY suggest a rear ballast for any and all FEL work, regardless of tire ballast.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Shortly after I got my forks I used them to unload a 1000 lb pallet of wood pellets off the back of my pickup. I was in a bit of a rush and forgot to mount my ballast box. The machine quickly reminded me when I lifted that pallet and the rear wheels came up off the ground. This was with my 2032R (with loaded rear tires) but the same thing can happen with any machine.

Once I got my shorts cleaned out, I got the ballast box mounted and had no problems moving that pallet (and the 11 others that were just like it...).
Maybe its that I have seen comments to the effect of removing stress on the front axle. If the front axle is the actual pivot point then the mechanical advantage of the ballast would be huge, that makes more sense. Thanks for sharing the experience although I am sure it was no fun at the time :)
 

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New to these tractors myself. I can give you my personal experience with the 2210 I just purchased a few months ago. From what you are saying you would like to use it for, plus adding pallet forks I think it's vital you get a ballast box.

Though I do not own a ballast box yet using the front end loader with any weight you need it. I had mine on two wheels vary quickly. I was leveling a spot for a above ground pool. Had a mix of soil and number two crusher run stone. I was moving the left over remains when I lifted the bucket to get the material moved back in the bucket. This is when it quickly moved on two wheels.

So depending on ground level, it could have ended up real bad in my situation. Even though I quickly lowered the FEL back down to stabilize on all four wheels again.

So last week I also helped my buddy ( neighbor ) move a mound of soil. Though It was on all four tires having weight would of helped with both traction and stability.

Sounds like you bought a nice unit, vary well set up. Congrats enjoy it they are vary addicting. Hopefully what I was trying to say makes sense. But I'm sure the more seasoned guy's Wil chime in too.

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Extremely easy for the loader to lift the rear with no weight on the back. Especially with the pallet forks and awkward loads. All it takes is getting the corner of the bucket or fork stuck under a root. I learned my lesson on day 2. I won't carry more than a load of pine straw in the bucket without at least the box blade. I do find that the rc2048 seems sufficiency for 90% of other loader tasks. Sure does get in the way if you're not in an open area though, ballast box all the way.

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BALLAST is extremely important. When using a FEL, the higher you go the physics is working against you. If you have the ballast on the back then you are going to be in a lot better position. The best way to think of this is your front wells is your focurm (balance point), and you want more weight on the back than your load and the height you are working at. I'm running a 2016 1025R and I just finished moving around 1000 piece cement and the my ballast box had not arrived yet. Good thing is i had a rear bladed from Land Pride RB1660 with hydraulics and this balanced out the tractor very nice. I did try it without a couple of times and I could see myself getting into trouble quickly if I didn't get the ballast on the tractor. So yes Ballast is VERY important.
 
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Its the ballast box I have the most trouble with (expense/value).
No offense but you are over thinking the mathematics.

On the contrary, the ballast box may be the most valuable attachment that you purchase as it's the one attachment that can save your life.

Please consult the manual for your H120 loader, JD lists the ballast requirements very clearly.

Also keep in mind that the use of pallet forks can increase the ballast requirements as compared with the bare H120 w/bucket.

Obviously the ballast box will only come into play when you have the backhoe removed.
 

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Right now my back hoe is my ballest for my forks and loader. I've never felt the tractor get light in the rear and my tires are not filled.
When I take the hoe off and put my chipper on I have to put some extra weight in the loader to keep the front tires from feeling light.
Your hoe would work good and its super easy to remove.
 

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Ignoring the question of the importance of ballast, I have both the backhoe and the ballast box (though it's empty with no, uh, ballast). I put the backhoe on and off frequently and attaching the 3 pt hitch arms so that I can attach the iMatch to hook up the ballast box simply takes a lot more time. I don't know how much you anticipate using the 3pt hitch vs the backhoe but you might weigh (pun?) that, too.
 

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The nice thing about the backhoe is you can swing the boom uphill for better slope stability. I've stretched the boom and dipper to gain even more leverage when the situation dictated the need. :good2:
 

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I really like the feel of the backhoe weight compared to the chipper weight on the 3 pt. hitch. When your moving I can really tell the difference. I'm comparing the chipper to a ballast box in my own mind because I've never had one and the hoe just feels so much better like it's more a part of the tractor itself. This may not be accurate if I put a real ballast box on.
 

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Right now my back hoe is my ballest for my forks and loader. I've never felt the tractor get light in the rear and my tires are not filled.
When I take the hoe off and put my chipper on I have to put some extra weight in the loader to keep the front tires from feeling light.
Your hoe would work good and its super easy to remove.
Agreed. If your in a pinch for cash, the BH is good ballast. It' 610 lbs with the 16 inch bucket.
Bucket weight is attached.

bucket.png
 

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Hi all,

New to tractor ownership and trying to understand all of my options. I purchased a used (30 hours) 2015 1025R TLB. It comes with a 54" snowblower (JD), 60" MMM, and a cab so its pretty loaded. I am also looking at picking up the frontier BB2048 and some pallet forks which look like they will be extremely useful.

Everyone else has addressed the ballast issue pretty well, so I will focus in the on forks you are considering: Please don't get the Frontier ones from the dealer as they are twice as heavy as some others, and that means reduced lifting capacities overall. I would encourage you to look at the Artillian System, it's a great match for your new machine and it's expandable to meet your future needs as well.

Artillian Tractor Attachments - Light-Weight Heavy-Duty Pallet Forks for John Deere Subcompact & Compact Tractors
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Everyone else has addressed the ballast issue pretty well, so I will focus in the on forks you are considering: Please don't get the Frontier ones from the dealer as they are twice as heavy as some others, and that means reduced lifting capacities overall. I would encourage you to look at the Artillian System, it's a great match for your new machine and it's expandable to meet your future needs as well.

Artillian Tractor Attachments - Light-Weight Heavy-Duty Pallet Forks for John Deere Subcompact & Compact Tractors
Thanks for the heads up on the forks, I sent an email to Artillian to ask about shipping costs to the 51st state (Canada).
 

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I have found the backhoe to be excellent ballast although it is a pain to change between the three point and the hoe frequently. A ballast box or heavy hitch with weights (more expensive but better ground clearance) would solve that issue. You will find that ground engagement with your front end loader is also enhanced with the additional weight giving greater traction. I would also recommend a tooth bar from Heavy Hitch or B Expanded (both vendors here) for markedly better ground penetration on your bucket.
 
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Welcome aboard Earthling. You've gotten some good advice. :good2:

All I can add is :gtfam:

:congrats::greentractorride::good2:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
No offense but you are over thinking the mathematics.

On the contrary, the ballast box may be the most valuable attachment that you purchase as it's the one attachment that can save your life.

Please consult the manual for your H120 loader, JD lists the ballast requirements very clearly.

Also keep in mind that the use of pallet forks can increase the ballast requirements as compared with the bare H120 w/bucket.

Obviously the ballast box will only come into play when you have the backhoe removed.
No offence taken. I wasn't overthinking the math, I was misinterpreting the tribal knowledge. When I look at the article about ballast and why you need it, everything makes sense and the math works out fine. well, mostly fine as the dynamics change when the back wheels hit the ground again but then I would be overthinking the math.

Backhoe stays on for now, that feels like the simple solution :)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The nice thing about the backhoe is you can swing the boom uphill for better slope stability. I've stretched the boom and dipper to gain even more leverage when the situation dictated the need. :good2:
I will keep that in mind/practice that when the tractor shows up, sounds like a useful trick.
 
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