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Discussion Starter #1
Today , I put the chains on the tractor for the first time. While I was putting the chain on the right side (facing forward) noticed the rubber hyd line on the inside of the fender well, instead of being routed the same as the metal lines. Called the shop foreman told me the new setup from Deere says to route them this way. He also told me ,he had a mechanic coming this way on Wed of this week. Mechanic will stop at the house and route the line the old way or my way of thinking the correct way.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Today , I put the chains on the tractor for the first time. While I was putting the chain on the right side (facing forward) noticed the rubber hyd line on the inside of the fender well, instead of being routed the same as the metal lines. Called the shop foreman told me the new setup from Deere says to route them this way. He also told me ,he had a mechanic coming this way on Wed of this week. Mechanic will stop at the house and route the line the old way or my way of thinking the correct way.
Took a picture to show what I'm concerned about. It's looks worst than it is but still needs to be moved.
 

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Bonehead Club Lackey
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That's the hose for your BH right?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No,,,that is the hose for the hyd lift used to lift mmm going to the 4 ports in front of floor board.
 

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My three year old 1026R had the mid mount hydraulic hose incorrectly routed . . . the same as yours. Noticed it as you, when installing chains. Referenced the Tech Manual (15Aug11 edition) and it shows that hydraulic line is supposed to be routed between the inner and outer fenders. In my edition of the manual the routing is described in section 80-25-16 and 80-25-17 (pages 342,343). I corrected the discrepancy myself. Bottom line, the line was routed incorrectly and the retaining clips called for were not used. Can't complain, only problem I have had in almost three years.
 

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Yup. Routed WAY wrong. Should follow the hard lines and be clamped off or at least zip tied. I'll bet the tech at the dealership has a whole drawer full of "extra" parts from kits! While yur there, I would pull the plastic from in front of the seat and make sure he clamped the line at the front seat bolts and that its secured on the other side too.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Will say the hose is clamped to the metal line and not cable(zip) tied. Kept wondering where the extra slack was in the hose. All the others with hyd lift had alot more slack compared to this one ,,NOW I know.
In defense of the dealership, they were busy as all get out the week my 1025r was delivered. They were getting 3 other 1025r ready to be delivered, plus my old 1026r was setting beside the new one removing and installing parts from both tractors .
All will be fine come Wed of this week. Just wish I had seen this earlier but oh well.!
 

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Yes, that is not routed correctly as others have indicated. When I routed mine (just installed a 60D with hydraulic lift) a couple weeks ago, I made sure to route the line with the hardline and zip tied / clamped the line per the revised instructions and even added a few zip ties in certain areas.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok mechanic was here this afternoon. Took a picture with the wheel off showing before the line was moved and after the line was moved.

I've known the mechanic for several years so I watched what he was doing . He shows me about taking the male part of hyd fitting off and what to look for when reattaching the fitting. While rerouting the line he had to pull ,it seemed, quite hard on the rubber hose to get it in between the inner fender and the front side. I told him , "Heck I could have done that , but I was afraid to yank that hard" , he told me "didn't hurt a thing pulling that hard"

Although I've had Jd tractors with hyd lines for about 15 yrs ,never had to deal with the lines. OH well didn't cost anything and all is well.

Also asked him again , about the smoking and harsh running for the first few minutes.

1st think the glow plugs does not stay on the whole time the light is lit on the dash and is not suppose to do so. I've noticed having the headlights on , mine might be on for 3 at the most 4 secs....NORMAL.
From what the mechanic and shop foreman have been able to figure out concerning the engine in the 1025r is the same engine in the 1023 and the 1026r.
Yes they all have different engine ID. According to them the 1023 has a different timing settiing. The 1026r is set for a different timing setting and the 1025r same way.
As someone else said trying to change the timing helped when outside temp was warm but when it gets colder it won't start or was harder starting.

It makes sense of the different timing , but still seems to me something little has to be different or why would it not run and start the same as the 1026r or the 1023 ..when the timing is set especially to the 1026r.:dunno:
 

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