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Discussion Starter #1
I haven’t been on in a while and I apologize for only using the forum for advice, but sometimes it’s the best way to here from someone who knows.
I have a 5065e, I recently got a good deal on a root grapple. I didn’t have a third valve so I routed a set of lines to the rear and it works perfect. My question is when hooking to grapple hoses to the quick connects I put up front, one of the lines coming off the grapple is extremely difficult to attach. I’m assuming it’s because it’s under pressure, but I can’t release the pressure no matter how hard I push the tip against the loader. If I tap it hard with a hammer a mist comes out. Do I need to change this tip to one of the “connect under pressure” tips?

Thanks in advance
Chris
 

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Are you trying to connect with the engine running and therefore, the system pressurized. When connecting hyd lines, always turn off the engine, then move all the hyd levers a few times to release the pressure. Further, when dis-connecting the lines, follow the same procedure.

Dave
 

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Safest way to do it is to wrap the end of the fitting heavily with a rag(s) and slowly loosen the fitting with 2 wrenches to relieve the pressure.

You are dealing with a very dangerous thing here. Safety glasses and heavy leather gloves are a must. Make sure you wrap the fitting very well.

In the future when you remove it do this

Set the graple down where you want to drop it. Shut off the tractor engine. Move the joystick in all 4 directions a few times. Then remove the couplers. This will relieve any pressure that may be left in the grapple.

Now if you drop it in the sun the pressure will still get into those lines even if you do the above.
 

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You could certainly try that. I believe the flat-faced couplers are more forgiving although they too can be tough sometimes.

You could also get a pressure release tool. Waite's makes one or some folks make their own. Below are the two that I use (one for each size coupler). These will allow you to capture the oil that squirts out into a container.

Waites_tool.jpg

You can also try just cracking the coupler loose although that too is messy and a real pain if swapping the grapple often.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks, the first time I hooked it up it was hard but not terrible. When I went to unhook it wouldn’t budge. I moved the levers back and forth and tried again and it came apart easily. Maybe the next time I unhook I need to move the levers back and forth a lot more to make sure all the pressure is off. The tip has the small flat face, but it looks like they make one that has another smaller tip that is labeled connect under pressure.
 

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No, the tractor is off. The pressure is in one of the lines coming off the grapple.

You can help that by moving all the hyd levers a few times (engine off) when disconnecting it next time. Otherwise, the lines remain pressurized. Also close the grapple before disconnecting it as you are already probably doing as it is the sensible thing to do. If the grapple is open, that might cause pressure on the quick connects. I had to do the crack the fittings thing one time when trying to reconnect my loader lines. Now I am very careful to make sure all line pressure is relieved prior to disconnecting.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Dave—actually I’m parking it wide open and “mouth” down. The manual recommended that. They sell kickstands for $185 each and you need two. I’m having a set made for next to nothing. Then I can store it closed. But when it’s stored closed, won’t the pressure just be on the other line?
 

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Dave—actually I’m parking it wide open and “mouth” down. The manual recommended that. They sell kickstands for $185 each and you need two. I’m having a set made for next to nothing. Then I can store it closed. But when it’s stored closed, won’t the pressure just be on the other line?
Without seeing a photo of your grapple it is hard to say but typically with them sitting flat on the ground with the jaws closed there isn't any pressure being generated anywhere. You can still have a slight pressure build up due to temperature changes. If you park it when cold and then try to reattach when the temperature is warmer it will usually have an issue. I know my loader does.
 

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You can always take two wrenches and loosen the fittings a bit to bleed some fluid if depressing the poppet does not work. Again you are dealing with very high pressure fluids here so extreme caution is warranted.
 

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Dave—actually I’m parking it wide open and “mouth” down. The manual recommended that. They sell kickstands for $185 each and you need two. I’m having a set made for next to nothing. Then I can store it closed. But when it’s stored closed, won’t the pressure just be on the other line?

In my humble opinion, I believe that if it is not resting on something, like the ground, gravity will cause pressure to build. Stored closed would not be an issue as there would be no gravity involved.

Dave
 

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If you don't want to fool with all this other stuff, just get the connect under pressure QDs as you have already suggested.

The problem with storing the grapple with the lids closed is that the rams are then exposed to the weather. No big deal if you use the grapple a lot, but for those of us that do not, it can be a problem if not dealt with properly as in spraying the ram with fluid film or similar.
 

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Same issue here and read the Manual again and again. But it was not doing all the steps. Motor off, rotate controls to,relieve pressure and then.......turn ignition switch to the first position, don’t start it. Then work the thumb electric over hydro button that controls the grapple closure. This will,relieve the front pressure to it. Give it a try.
 

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I took a 5 gallon pail with a lid and mounted two female (old leaky ones that had been replaced) on the lid of the pail.

When I take my grapple off, I hook the two hoses to the pail. Problem solved!!!

At some point, I plan to change to single function multi-coupler.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
“Then work the thumb electric over hydro button that controls the grapple closure. This will,relieve the front pressure to it. Give it a try.”

My tractor was not set up with the third function and getting it installed was not in the budget. So I ran lines from the center of the loader to my rear hydros. In order to close the grapple I use the rear lever on the right side of my seat. I did notice that it has a float setting like my loader joystick. I turned the tractor off and put everything into float and let it sit a minute or two before unhooking. The coupler tips were easily depressed and oil slowly came out.
 

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I have a grapple - also have the same problem connecting it. The first time it wouldn't connect, I used a couple wrenches to loosen one of the fittings on the implement side. That worked but a chunk of o-ring got blasted out by the sudden release. After that, I started bleeding the pressure off when I disconnected the grapple. This works well - all I do is push the tip of the male quick connector against the grapple. This works because it hasn't sat long enough to build pressure. That way it is less likely to be able to build pressure while sitting for days and weeks.
 

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I think that some guys have already alluded to it, but the issue isn't with the tractor side of the connection. It's most often with the grapple itself. The two things that cause problems are, as mentioned, if the temperature goes up significantly, the oil trapped in the grapple lines will try to expand and cause pressure buildup. However, the most common problem, in my opinion, is that grapples can easily build up pressure on one side of the cylinder(s) when the movable part of the grapple settles even a little after detaching it. The solution that I use is to make sure that the movable part of the grapple is supported firmly before disconnecting the lines.
 

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I finally broke the code on hooking up (or the reverse) my grapple's hydraulics. Grapple on the ground, plates closed, engine off, 3 point hitch fully down, and I move the loader joystick in all directions. This relieves pressure and makes it easy-peasy to deal with the lines.
 
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