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1988 JD 318
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone I would like to start off by saying Happy 2022 1 1/2 days early. I'm new to JD and just bought a 1988 318 with a 2 stage snow blower and I'm just loving it. Just had a few issues to deal with. I had 2 hydraulic lines with a leaking problem. I changed the 2 female couplers O rings that had a drip ( when male disconnected no drip.) and the worse connection stopped dripping. So I think I need to just replace the male connector for now. I plan to change out all 4 male and female connectors and maybe hydraulic lines also when the weather warms up, Its -16 C. So have any of you replaced with a non JD part or should I stick with JD? Do you have a part number for after market parts and also JD parts. I'm not sure how hard it is to replace the female at the front of the tractor but I know its underneath the front, which is a problem for me I have a touch of vertigo so when I lay down and raise my arms the world wants to spin. I think if I use my engine Crain and lift the front of the tractor up, I can sit under it and work on it. Is this a bad idea? Do any of you have a schematic blow up of the area and how they are attached to the lines. Not being able to look at the area now is a real problem for me. But mostly need Part number for the male side connector and size to go to NAPA to buy with out removing it.
PS. In the pic it shows 6 suitcase weights and I have added 2 wax containers that have 42 extra lbs. each to the back for traction.
Thanks in advance. Be safe and take care.
Wheel Snow Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive tire
 

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Furry57, Supporting you tractor on your engine crain is not a bad idea, it's a terrible, death wish idea! NEVER get underneath a suspended load...NEVER! A chain or strap can break, a seal can rupture, or somebody can come by and "just happen" to release it! Lift what you need to lift, but then lower it onto jack stands, blocks, whatever, but have the earth support your load before you get under it!

With all of that stated, you may not have to get under the tractor! Remove snow blower and front grille and you may find you have access to the female couplers & fittings from the front of the tractor and not from underneath. Here's what you've got:
Rectangle Font Parallel Screenshot Number

NOW, When trying to remove couplers, be EXTREMELY watchful of the tubing! The nuts on the 4 hydro lines may be rusted solid onto the lines. As you try to loosen nuts, tubing may want to twist and crack! I had this on my 322. The nuts on the right side came right off, no problem. The nuts on the left PROBLEM! I used Kroil for a week and a half, heat for 3 or 4 applications, and every possible tool combination I could think of... with no luck! I ended up cutting the tubing, installing a union elbow, and then reconnecting with a new fitting #10... at a cost of $60 for 2 lines! I don't know how fitting #10 wad put into coupler #25, but after repairing, ended up putting fitting in a vise, a 2' pipe wrench AND a 2' pipe on the wrench and pulling my ba!!s off before it came apart!

Other "words of wisdom" from my experiences! Try your snap ring pliers into the holes of the snap ring! SOME snap rings have .050" holes, and SOME have .062" holes. SOME snap ring pliers have .050" tips and SOME have .062" tips! Which means SOMEtimes pliers fit and other times they don't! Holes in snap rings can be opened up, but a carbide drill is needed as snap rings at least case hardened, if not thu-hardened.

Part numbers: I've got Deere numbers and one cross reference for Pioneer fittings
Male:
JD # AM37983 or AM 31274 Pioneer/Parker 4010-2P

Female:
JD# AM37982 or AM31273 Pioneer/Parker 4050-2P

Coupler o-ring: JD # 32246
Size = 113

Check female couplers by spraying parts cleaner, WD-40, and then blowing clean with air. Start tractor, warm engine, and go full throttle. Pull each control lever back until engine changes sound. Hold lever back for additional 20-30 seconds. Then push levers forward until engine changes sound. Hold for 20-30 seconds. Shut down and inspect couplers. If wet with oil, replace... poppet in coupler leaks. If dry, they're fine... if it ain't broke, don't fix it! If they leak only when connected, o-ring problem or possibly male coupler plug. You said that you replaced the o-rings...JD part or box store? If box store, possibly wrong material and they'll leak in the near future. Many box store o-rings are EPDM and NOT compatible with hydraulic fluids, so you need Nitril or Buna-N o-rings.

WHEW! Sorry for the long winded post, but I tried to include things to be aware of and not reply, 'Yeh, fine,' or 'No, you'll have a problem' and then walk away from the post. If questions ask, that's why we're here! Bob
 

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Registered
1988 JD 318
Joined
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Furry57, Supporting you tractor on your engine crain is not a bad idea, it's a terrible, death wish idea! NEVER get underneath a suspended load...NEVER! A chain or strap can break, a seal can rupture, or somebody can come by and "just happen" to release it! Lift what you need to lift, but then lower it onto jack stands, blocks, whatever, but have the earth support your load before you get under it!

With all of that stated, you may not have to get under the tractor! Remove snow blower and front grille and you may find you have access to the female couplers & fittings from the front of the tractor and not from underneath. Here's what you've got:
View attachment 819413
OW, When trying to remove couplers, be EXTREMELY watchful of the tubing! The nuts on the 4 hydro lines may be rusted solid onto the lines. As you try to loosen nuts, tubing may want to twist and crack! I had this on my 322. The nuts on the right side came right off, no problem. The nuts on the left PROBLEM! I used Kroil for a week and a half, heat for 3 or 4 applications, and every possible tool combination I could think of... with no luck! I ended up cutting the tubing, installing a union elbow, and then reconnecting with a new fitting #10... at a cost of $60 for 2 lines! I don't know how fitting #10 wad put into coupler #25, but after repairing, ended up putting fitting in a vise, a 2' pipe wrench AND a 2' pipe on the wrench and pulling my ba!!s off before it came apart!

Other "words of wisdom" from my experiences! Try your snap ring pliers into the holes of the snap ring! SOME snap rings have .050" holes, and SOME have .062" holes. SOME snap ring pliers have .050" tips and SOME have .062" tips! Which means SOMEtimes pliers fit and other times they don't! Holes in snap rings can be opened up, but a carbide drill is needed as snap rings at least case hardened, if not thu-hardened.

Part numbers: I've got Deere numbers and one cross reference for Pioneer fittings
Male:
JD # AM37983 or AM 31274 Pioneer/Parker 4010-2P

Female:
JD# AM37982 or AM31273 Pioneer/Parker 4050-2P

Coupler o-ring: JD # 32246
Size = 113

Check female couplers by spraying parts cleaner, WD-40, and then blowing clean with air. Start tractor, warm engine, and go full throttle. Pull each control lever back until engine changes sound. Hold lever back for additional 20-30 seconds. Then push levers forward until engine changes sound. Hold for 20-30 seconds. Shut down and inspect couplers. If wet with oil, replace... poppet in coupler leaks. If dry, they're fine... if it ain't broke, don't fix it! If they leak only when connected, o-ring problem or possibly male coupler plug. You said that you replaced the o-rings...JD part or box store? If box store, possibly wrong material and they'll leak in the near future. Many box store o-rings are EPDM and NOT compatible with hydraulic fluids, so you need Nitril or Buna-N o-rings.

WHEW! Sorry for the long winded post, but I tried to include things to be aware of and not reply, 'Yeh, fine,' or 'No, you'll have a problem' and then walk away from the post. If questions ask, that's why we're here! Bob

Thank you so very much for all that wisdom. But so you know I was not only going to hang my tractor from the Crane I had also planned to support from underneath the same as when I jack up any vehicle. Have a great day
 
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