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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone added hydraulic cylinder to their backhoe to work with the thumb? I'd like to know type cylinder and even a photo of install if possible....tks Chuck
 

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working on just that next week,,,,have the cyl, the hi flow kit from kenguy & the Summit 3 banger....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
which cylinder did you buy, I have an outlet and just bought two for the upper link....I've thought about on of those type...how are you mounting hoses? Going to use line block? I thought I might mount my lines on the outside...then route them down the large part of boom if there is room...use 1/4" lines for this for flexibility.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
gpdc, I'm thinking of using an 8" stroke because all the way back on my thumb is 17" center to center. I was wondering what you were using. There is a ram type cylinder where the lines are on the side...I'd like the 10" for extended reach but the thumb will not be all the way back....the lines I don't think will be any trouble as I will use some block on side of boom and if I use 1/4" they will run down the lower part of boom...trying to get the proper cylinder...I'd like some weld on sleeves to take up space in boom so I don't bend the bolt.
 

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The picture shows the 1 1/2" dia x 6" stroke I intend to use to power my BX "Barracuda" thumb that's now on my 260 BH.....pic also shows kenguys' hi flow kit and a new 2025R pump to replace the original 1015R pump....that's a 12% flow improvement....The Summit 3 holer was shipped yesterday. If this cyl does not have the stroke I need, I'll use it somewhere else & get another with more stroke. 400' of French Drain last year made me want the faster acting BH......take a look at Kens' comparison videos...
Gas Auto part Metal Machine Audio equipment
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
gpdc: Went to the hydraulic shop this A.M. got my lines...1/4" and fitting...plugs right into my valve a loops out of the way....I order the 1.5x10 from Magister....I plan on having my lines on the side so I'll need to cut the barrel end off and rotate 90 degrees.....per the cylinder it has a pin to pin of 18" retracted so you can see that will work and I'll have as much pinch as needed. That pump deal seems interesting...what's the tag on one of those? On the lines...I'll need to secure with some hold downs on the side of the outlets of the cylinder.
 

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The picture shows the 1 1/2" dia x 6" stroke I intend to use to power my BX "Barracuda" thumb that's now on my 260 BH.....pic also shows kenguys' hi flow kit and a new 2025R pump to replace the original 1015R pump....that's a 12% flow improvement....The Summit 3 holer was shipped yesterday. If this cyl does not have the stroke I need, I'll use it somewhere else & get another with more stroke. 400' of French Drain last year made me want the faster acting BH......take a look at Kens' comparison videos... View attachment 782457
Looking forward to hearing about your hydroplus install. The 1026R kit should be ready soon. Looking forward to it, went with hi flow pump.
 

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my gut feeling is to hardline everything as much as possible, allowing ample bend radius in flexing hose where needed.....attached is a pic of
Plumbing fixture Tap Plumbing fitting Plumbing Water
 

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oops....newbie pic poster probs.....the picture shows a center detented, (3) position "bat" switch mounted on my loader SCV handle.....(this winter) the SCV operated the left/right snowblower chute rotation & that "bat" switch positions the "scoop" for up or down...(I can charge right in toward the shop door & blow snow backward over either shoulder (wind dependent).....ya, almost 360 degrees rotation & that is another story)......I envision something similar to that "bat" switch on my 260 curl SVC for thumb actuation...
these things must be one of the best adult "transformer" toys on our planet........
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
gpdc: I see your pic of the switch. I'm using a similar setup on my front end diverter. Summit make a finger model for the joy stick. Main concept there is just breaking the circuit and it takes only two wires. Summit used a lightweight type wiring so I replaced mine with heavier trailer wiring and like I say the contact is only a breaker point of the circuit. Some companies really make things more complicated that needed. However on my rear unit, it's mechanical. KennyD gave me the hydraulics 101 course and help with Summit. My mechanical has a return as the seals in the unit weren't heavy enough to take a pressure build up...I think the effect is hydraulic hammering so I ran a seperate return line. The new electric units from Summits will take the pressure without a return line. After install I've also can connect my backhoe in line so eveything works in series. Valve, backhoe, rockshaft. Now I'm adding cylinder to the thumb using magistra cross cylinder with 10" stroke. My current center to center is 18" so it would work fine. Only exception is I have to cut the barrel end bracket and rotate 90 degrees so my outlets are on the side for compactness. Clearance was limited on the top so I couldn't come down through the boom but I can on the side and use fastening blocks for brackets. I think I've got this puppy whipped as soon as I receive my cylinder. Also when I rotate the seat my control handle for the valve is a mere hand touch to the left. I can run the boom on hand and valve with the other...similar to that control on my 4400. Where would we be without this forum and all the good help?
 

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MM:....short answer to your question would be "LOST" !!......I've picked up more "stuff" in this forum than can be told.....I intend to use some form of side plates to locate & hold the barrel end of the thumb cylinder...if I make those plates adjustable, that should accommodate any longer cylinder requirements.....what do you have for the actual gripping thumb ?...what is
"line block" that you've previously mentioned ?.......please post pic's of your project !!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
gpdc: Was in Louisville, Ky today and went to a large hydraulic store. Here is pic of block and also some individual hold downs. The block is spot welded and then you can get a good line attachment. I'm needing to get the cylinder and get it on before I can tell where the best location will be. I got the sleeve and as you can see it's installed. I have enough to loop and I can lenghten at the boom if needed. I have the lines curled to the outside to eliminate foot contact. All this stuff takes some engineering and I suppose I'm rather paticular. The cylinder has to be modified on the barrel end. As soon as I get this done...I'll send some pics of that. Not saying my ideal is original, say similar on Paul Short video where he installed on another orange tractor.
 

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OH OK!...."line block" is another term for the hard line solid/hard rubber mounting....got it!
looks like we're working with the same BX thumb...great.....have you seen the hydrosplus vids that take you thru the install of his stuff ?.....that said, his latest vid shows a 1023 (I think) & mentions a BH frame to be worked around on subsequent models.....probably small stuff....probably find out this weekend........I think I paid right around $500 for his flow kit...then I bought a 2025 pump (+12% flow) just before he finalized his own unique bolt-on pump....probably my bad as I thought I'd have it all "spring" ready by now....haven't taken off the SB'er yet......
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Out at the shop this morning cutting some bushings to go on the end of the cylinder to meet proper space. Also getting things ready for the cut on the cylinder. It has to revolve 90 degrees so the fitting will be on the side. Placing the cylinder outlets on the same side as my valve is on the tractor. One thing is clear in fabricating or designing your setup on hydraulics is that these parts and procedures aren't in anyway in expensive. But once you have it like you desire it sure is pleasing to use. It's a rainy day here in Western Ky and good time to do small work off and on and think it through. I never like to do a job in a rush. I plan on moving my backhoe down to my small shop concrete as taking it off and on in barn on gravel is a pain as it want to shift. This way I can barely raise it up to release and easily set in backhoe cradle. I can speak only from my experience but technic in design, installation and use is everything with these compacts or any other tractor and equipment. My hats off to KennyD for his help.
 

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gpdc: Went to the hydraulic shop this A.M. got my lines...1/4" and fitting...plugs right into my valve a loops out of the way....I order the 1.5x10 from Magister....I plan on having my lines on the side so I'll need to cut the barrel end off and rotate 90 degrees.....per the cylinder it has a pin to pin of 18" retracted so you can see that will work and I'll have as much pinch as needed. That pump deal seems interesting...what's the tag on one of those? On the lines...I'll need to secure with some hold downs on the side of the outlets of the cylinder.
Hi Machineryman,
I am TOTALLY impressed with your design and would like to do the same to my BXpanded thumb. Can you post a general parts list to get others started? This would really be a big help for me and probably others.
Thanks again for your post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I used a Magister 1.5x10 cross cylinder. Cut the barrel end off and rotate it 90%...it needs a little more seperation...maybe 1/2" or so to clear that lip. I also cut the rod end off 1" and rewelded. However I belive a 1.5"x8" stroke tang hydraulic clinder would just bolt up in place. Used the blocks...weld type and used 1/4" hose to supply...ran the hose down the boom after applying a double coating. I believe you need some 3/4" ID sleeve to space out to the cylinder end and I welded mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I also heard back from BXpanded and they're reviewing my design...maybe I'll get a finder fee or ton's of commissions.....ha, ha..
 

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I used a Magister 1.5x10 cross cylinder. Cut the barrel end off and rotate it 90%...it needs a little more seperation...maybe 1/2" or so to clear that lip. I also cut the rod end off 1" and rewelded. However I belive a 1.5"x8" stroke tang hydraulic clinder would just bolt up in place. Used the blocks...weld type and used 1/4" hose to supply...ran the hose down the boom after applying a double coating. I believe you need some 3/4" ID sleeve to space out to the cylinder end and I welded mine.
Great! Thank you.
 
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