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Maybe it’s just me but I just did the 50 hour hydraulic change on my 2025r and it was a pain in the Aztecs. Took maybe 4 hours total.

First problem, the filter. I pulled the mid PTO just to get at it. Then it’s a smooth filter, no flutes. Then some guy with tree trunk arms put it on. It looked like it went through a wood chipper by the time I got it off.

Second problem. The screen. There is a short section of hose that is suppose to come off so you can pull the elbow off that holds the suction screen in. This rubber hose is to short and not flexible enough to come off, so I just pried like crazy and it came off with the elbow. It would be easier to cut the hose and get a new one but you still have to get it back together.

Third problem. Getting the mid PTO back on. It has to pivot up and down and there are some bearings that allow this. The bolts that hold it on go through these bearings. The problem is when you bolt it back up it tends to pop on of these out. I got it back together but it’s not right.

Rant over, any tips to make this easier next time?
 

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Maybe it’s just me but I just did the 50 hour hydraulic change on my 2025r and it was a pain in the Aztecs. Took maybe 4 hours total.

First problem, the filter. I pulled the mid PTO just to get at it. Then it’s a smooth filter, no flutes. Then some guy with tree trunk arms put it on. It looked like it went through a wood chipper by the time I got it off.

Second problem. The screen. There is a short section of hose that is suppose to come off so you can pull the elbow off that holds the suction screen in. This rubber hose is to short and not flexible enough to come off, so I just pried like crazy and it came off with the elbow. It would be easier to cut the hose and get a new one but you still have to get it back together.

Third problem. Getting the mid PTO back on. It has to pivot up and down and there are some bearings that allow this. The bolts that hold it on go through these bearings. The problem is when you bolt it back up it tends to pop on of these out. I got it back together but it’s not right.

Rant over, any tips to make this easier next time?

Take it to a buddy that’s a mechanic. That’s what i did :lol: I still helped him though. It is a pain. I did it on my 1025.

If I remember right the new 2025 says nothing about the 50 hours like the older machines So I’m still undecided if I will do it or not.
 

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I was a little unsure if it’s required or not. I don’t think it is. There was some fine metal and some chunks of something else on the screen. I drug some of it out the hole with a rag. It was probably ok till 200 hours.
 

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It’s a time consuming process. Doing mine today until I realized they gave me the wrong hydraulic filter. Got the engine oil changed and air filters changed. Guess I’ll have to wait on hydraulic fluid change until Monday.


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I’ll have to get a chain wrench. I had one with a rubber strap and snapped the rubber strap.
 

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Maybe it’s just me but I just did the 50 hour hydraulic change on my 2025r and it was a pain in the Aztecs. Took maybe 4 hours total.

First problem, the filter. I pulled the mid PTO just to get at it. Then it’s a smooth filter, no flutes. Then some guy with tree trunk arms put it on. It looked like it went through a wood chipper by the time I got it off.

Second problem. The screen. There is a short section of hose that is suppose to come off so you can pull the elbow off that holds the suction screen in. This rubber hose is to short and not flexible enough to come off, so I just pried like crazy and it came off with the elbow. It would be easier to cut the hose and get a new one but you still have to get it back together.

Third problem. Getting the mid PTO back on. It has to pivot up and down and there are some bearings that allow this. The bolts that hold it on go through these bearings. The problem is when you bolt it back up it tends to pop on of these out. I got it back together but it’s not right.

Rant over, any tips to make this easier next time?
Yes, sell the belly mower and hook up eliminating the issues you just described and buy a deer riding mower to cut grass with. I've got about an acre of lawn and my almost twenty year old lawn mower still works like new and is used for pulling trailers for prunings etc and lots of stuff. Much easier to manuver around than a 1 or 2 series tractor and bangs my head on tree branchs much less. My tractors are used as tractors
 

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I don’t really have room to store another machine and parts of my yard are hilly so the 4 wheel drive and ROPS is nice.
 

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I’ll have to get a chain wrench. I had one with a rubber strap and snapped the rubber strap.
The actual filter removal will never be that hard again, it seems the new ones (and oil filters) are all very difficult- no lube on the seal and way over tightened-some seem painted on. Once you have replaced it, it should be a lot easier next time!
 
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It’s a time consuming process. Doing mine today until I realized they gave me the wrong hydraulic filter. Got the engine oil changed and air filters changed. Guess I’ll have to wait on hydraulic fluid change until Monday.


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Luckily you noticed before you removed the old and drained the fluid :flag_of_truce:
 

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I figured out what I was doing wrong when putting the auto connect pto back on. There is a pair of bearings that allow it to pivot when putting the deck on and moving the deck up and down. It bolts to a bracket under the deck. Of course your gut instinct is to tighten the bolts. This pops one of the bearings out. The nuts are nylock so you aren’t suppose to tighten them. The whole thing just kind of floats down there

It is fairly easy to get to the filter if the mid pto is off.
 

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The actual filter removal will never be that hard again, it seems the new ones (and oil filters) are all very difficult- no lube on the seal and way over tightened-some seem painted on. Once you have replaced it, it should be a lot easier next time!
I agree, anyone who has done the first oil change on a car or truck will tell you that the first time the oil filter is changed, it is a bear to remove. No diffrent when I did the 50 hour hydro change on my 1025r. When you get the proper oil filter take it to an automotive supply store and buy the appropriate oil filter wrench. The next one will be much easier. Be sure to lube the rubber gasket before installing the new filter. Good Luck.....
 
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Yeah that’s the problem. I didn’t. Drained oil, cleaned suction screen took old filter off and then noticed. Thankfully I don’t need tractor today.


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I've already done that. You would think the dealership parts department would kn0w to give you the right one! Well in my case at least it was well drained by the time i picked up the new correct filter
 

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I've already done that. You would think the dealership parts department would kn0w to give you the right one! Well in my case at least it was well drained by the time i picked up the new correct filter
Was disappointed I couldn’t complete it but it will be well drained that’s for sure. I’ll pick up correct filter on my way home from work today and get things put back together tonight. Going to grease everything as well. Will change fuel filters when fuel level gets closer to empty.


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Tractor Time With Tim has a many excellent videos to help with chores like changing the hydraulic oil. Here is one that I found very helpful:

Deere 1025r/1023e 50/200 hr Hydraulic Oil Change without left wheel removal - YouTube

I know the video is for the 1 series tractors but I found it just as useful for when I changed the hydraulic oil on my 2025r.
I watched the video you put up. I found it very concerning. I do not own any of the tractors in the video. But if I did I would be really concerned. There really was a lot of junk & shavings in that transaxle. Is this what now passes at Deere as normal?

I just went thru $4,000 in labor & parts to replace a worn out main PTO shaft inside the transaxle, a mid mount internal PTO seal, (a real dumb design) & a number of other issues. However the tractor is an 855 going on 30 years old & about 1500 hours of service. Personally, I will never buy any of those new fancy utility tractors. All they are doing now is catering to the Wanna Be farmer in most cases. Very poor designs on those new machines. Loads of problems with them because they (JD) under so much sales pressure. People are more concerned with stupid stuff like auto attach mowers & then they spend more time fixing the problems rather than doing it the old fashion way which takes ten minutes to manually hook up. Everything now must be instant & don't you dare build a tractor without a stupid cup holder for the beer can. What junk. Just my own opinion, don't have a cow over it. They make good stuff-but not for the consumer on two acres who wants to play farmer on a Saturday morning. Where is Deere getting this stuff from? Let me guess-China. I think Yanmar sends Deer all there rejects.
 

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I watched the video you put up. I found it very concerning. I do not own any of the tractors in the video. But if I did I would be really concerned. There really was a lot of junk & shavings in that transaxle. Is this what now passes at Deere as normal?

I just went thru $4,000 in labor & parts to replace a worn out main PTO shaft inside the transaxle, a mid mount internal PTO seal, (a real dumb design) & a number of other issues. However the tractor is an 855 going on 30 years old & about 1500 hours of service. Personally, I will never buy any of those new fancy utility tractors. All they are doing now is catering to the Wanna Be farmer in most cases. Very poor designs on those new machines. Loads of problems with them because they (JD) under so much sales pressure. People are more concerned with stupid stuff like auto attach mowers & then they spend more time fixing the problems rather than doing it the old fashion way which takes ten minutes to manually hook up. Everything now must be instant & don't you dare build a tractor without a stupid cup holder for the beer can. What junk. Just my own opinion, don't have a cow over it. They make good stuff-but not for the consumer on two acres who wants to play farmer on a Saturday morning. Where is Deere getting this stuff from? Let me guess-China. I think Yanmar sends Deer all there rejects.
I agree with you they waste energy on useless frills like belly mowers on tractors to large for lawn mowers. That said many of the changes are simple design changes that just make it easier so less prone to accidents than the old iron is. Maybe you like getting off and on a tractor ten times or more to make simple adjustments but i don't. I much prefer a design that makes adjustments easy. I mean if you reaally think the old ways are superior why not go back to the use of oxen then you have nothing much to break except your back. chuckle, I say that because i have a friend that makes a good living farming in Eastern oregon using hores and old style imlements with the volunteer help of the local high school youth. He raised mostly legumes for feed and herbal teas.
 
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It common for modern tractors to have that stuff in the screen. The Kubota I bought ten years ago was worse.

I guess the above poster needs to find a forum where real farmers with real tractors hang out and leave the junk Yanmar stuff to us wannabes.
 

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I don't want to hijack, but I changed the transmission fluid on my gen 1 2025r last night and had a quite pleasant experience. My drain plug was loose enough that it came out with only needing a 3/8ths socket driver (I didnt need to take out the breaker bar) and the filter had a 1/2" square dive on the end so I could remove it with a 1/2" ratchet. No need for a chain wrench. Plus the filter is right under the floor board. WAY easy to get at. I didnt even need a jack! Total job was 90 minutes including taking off the iMatch and 3 point stuff to get at the screen. And... I actually put my tools away :)

The only thing that was a bit goofy is that the manual says 3.5 gallons to change the fluid. I took out 2.5 gallons and put 2.5 gallons back in?
 
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