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Discussion Starter #1
My 1025R developed a small hydraulic fluid leak at about 30 hours. By small leak I refer to a spot on the concrete under the rear axle about the size of a quarter overnight. Sometimes there was no leak for a few days, and then another spot would appear. I cleaned the underside of the tractor but couldn't find a specific leak location. I changed the filter, screen and fluid. I used JD a JD brand filter and Hy-Gard fluid. The screen was remarkably clean. The intermittent leak continued, though. The longest without a drop under the tracor was a couple of nights.

I came across several threads and posts recommending a Blue Devil brand product. bluedevil.jpeg

I added 16 oz to the tractor, and within a day the leak had stopped, and has not come back. That was about 20 hours ago. SO, here's my question.

My next scheduled (JD recommended) hydraulic fluid change is in about another 55 hours. Should I do the fluid change early to remove the stop leak stuff now that the leak appears to be sealed? Or should I just leave it as is and wait to do the service?
 

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Where is it leaking from?

I’m not typically a fan of “mechanic in a bottle” type fixes, I would rather get to the root cause.

Jason


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I agree - especially because of the fact of the intricacy of the transmission which shares the hydraulic fluid with the rest of the system.
 

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I shamefully admit trying sealube once on a steering cylinder. It worked almost instantly and for a while but while i was out of town an axle seal let go sitting in the garage and all at once i had a quart or 2 of hydro on the floor. I drained the fluid until i could change the seals and refilled with new following seal replacement. Almost instantly, the original steering cylinder started leaking again. Ill let you decide what level of coincidence to apply to all this. I replaced the steering cylinder (took awhile for that to grow back) and all is well.

Would i use it again? Not unless it was an absolute emergency.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Where is it leaking from?

I’m not typically a fan of “mechanic in a bottle” type fixes, I would rather get to the root cause.

Jason


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
As I said in my post, I cleaned all the grime on the underside of the tractor, and searched several times for a source of the leak. And I was not able to find any specific point with hydraulic fluid coming from it. Had I found the source and location of the leak, I would have addressed the specific problem.
 

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I agree - especially because of the fact of the intricacy of the transmission which shares the hydraulic fluid with the rest of the system.
Thant's for responding, but that was not my question.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I shamefully admit trying sealube once on a steering cylinder. It worked almost instantly and for a while but while i was out of town an axle seal let go sitting in the garage and all at once i had a quart or 2 of hydro on the floor. I drained the fluid until i could change the seals and refilled with new following seal replacement. Almost instantly, the original steering cylinder started leaking again. Ill let you decide what level of coincidence to apply to all this. I replaced the steering cylinder (took awhile for that to grow back) and all is well.

Would i use it again? Not unless it was an absolute emergency.
Interesting story, but does anyone have an answer to my posted question?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Isn't your tractor under warranty, Doc?
Yes, it is, but I can't just let it sit at the dealer until it finally gets serviced. That's why I've done all the maintenance so far myself, even buying and installing parts that I know would be covered by warranty. Besides, my local dealer's shop doesn't have a great reputation, and if I do it myself at least I know it's done correctly. And the few parts I've needed so far haven't been terribly expensive. That's why I really like GTT as a source of information.
 

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:dunno:well than at the 55 hr mark u spoke of i would rain the oil again--fill it back up with new oil-but leave out the blue devil. if it leaks again:banghead: somehow ur gonna have to find where it's leaking from!:unknown:

even if u took it to jd for fixing-they would have to find where it's leaking too-to then fix the leak. which is a pain-like u said-it could be there a month or more for them to find the leak.

i know seeing drops of oil on the floor is very aggravating to say the least.

just gonna have find the leak-it will show up in time:dunno:
 

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I recommend checking all the connections, fittings and bolts. It may very well be there is something that is just barely loose and allowing oil to leak past. It might be running from further up.

I thought I had a slow leak on my tractor at the loader connectors - one of the mower brackets below it would get damp. I replaced all the o-rings and it still leaked. Turned out there was a loose hose clamp on the fuel system immediately above and fuel was leaking down onto the frame and seeping onto the bracket. Turned out all I needed was a screwdriver and a rag to wipe it up. The hydraulic connectors seemed like the culprit but just happened to be the closest possible source, not the real source.

In the interest of full disclosure, I actually thought it was the seal on the water separator/fuel filter when I found the leak. I didn't realize it was the hose clamp until after I'd replaced the filter and seal. I suppose early service is better than late.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Like I answered this earlier, yes it's still under warranty. But I just can't spare the tractor right now. My winter rye is ready for its first cutting, the riding arena needs daily maintenance, I'll have no way to use the manure spreader, and I have fence post holes to do to get a pasture back in use, plus construction materials ordered that I need the forks to unload.

I never realized how quickly dependent I would become on having one little tractor to use multiple times a day.

So all the warranty things so far, I've done myself. If it ever is something I can't handle myself, obviously I'd need to take it in. But so far it has been easy things like a broken air filter bracket, or a bent turnbuckle in the mower mount. So far I've spent a couple of hundred dollars on parts that would have beenwarranty covered, but I don't have either a trailer or the down time.

What do the rest of you do when the dealer wants to keep your tractor for an indefinite time. Do your dealers have loaners?
 

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Like I answered this earlier, yes it's still under warranty. But I just can't spare the tractor right now. My winter rye is ready for its first cutting, the riding arena needs daily maintenance, I'll have no way to use the manure spreader, and I have fence post holes to do to get a pasture back in use, plus construction materials ordered that I need the forks to unload.

I never realized how quickly dependent I would become on having one little tractor to use multiple times a day.

So all the warranty things so far, I've done myself. If it ever is something I can't handle myself, obviously I'd need to take it in. But so far it has been easy things like a broken air filter bracket, or a bent turnbuckle in the mower mount. So far I've spent a couple of hundred dollars on parts that would have beenwarranty covered, but I don't have either a trailer or the down time.

What do the rest of you do when the dealer wants to keep your tractor for an indefinite time. Do your dealers have loaners?
I see your point. While I don’t depend on mine as much as you do it would be a huge inconvienience for me in the dead of winter (snow removal) or spring/summer (mowing). My dealer went out of business about 8 years ago and I no longer have a trailer. Any repairs would have to be done myself with the help of the forum members and the tech manual.

Fortunately (knocking on wood) in 10 years I have yet to have one single issue.

Just a suggestion for future reference with hydraulic leaks - clean / power wash the area well. Add some red dye (available at the dealer) to the hydraulic system. Then check every couple hours with a real bright light to find the leak. They can be a bear to find especially due to the fact that fluid travel over fittings and casings before it drips down.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Just a quick followup to my post. After I poured in the stop leak stuff I worked the tractor for several hours that day. No leak appeared that night, and no leak since then. I just bought 4 gallons of low viscosity Hy-Gard and a filter. We are supposed to have a rainy day tomorrow so I plan to pull the tractor into the barn and change the hydraulic fluid and filter.

Can anyone tell me whether the fluid change also drains the fluid in the loader hydraulics, or will that remain and just be eventually diluted as the new fluid circulates?
 

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Just a quick followup to my post. After I poured in the stop leak stuff I worked the tractor for several hours that day. No leak appeared that night, and no leak since then. I just bought 4 gallons of low viscosity Hy-Gard and a filter. We are supposed to have a rainy day tomorrow so I plan to pull the tractor into the barn and change the hydraulic fluid and filter.

Can anyone tell me whether the fluid change also drains the fluid in the loader hydraulics, or will that remain and just be eventually diluted as the new fluid circulates?
Any fluid in the lines, hoses, cylinders, pumps etc. will not be changed. Depending on where the cooler is located and how the hoses are routed probably not it either. I would fill it with just the oil and see if it comes back. If it does and it bothers you put the same ratio in for the amount of gallons you have to add during a change. Obviously you have used the tractor a lot since you added that the first time and have had no issues because of it. If it is the type of thing that expands seals you may find other things leaking when you put in just straight oil. The good thing is you have a newer unit that it may not make that much difference. Just my 2 cents.
 

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I can't answer your question about the Blue Devil as I don't know anything about it. I have a question for you though. Did the leak happen anywhere that you had to couple or uncouple any hoses? It could just be the small amount that leaks when you do that and not show up for a day or two and it would only be a drop or two. It would also be hard to see as what little there is would drop and nothing else be where it dropped from. Also hard to see as it's metal and won't show as easy as in the hose itself. Hope you find it.
 

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Appears from the website that the Blue Devil conditions the seal and allows it expand to normal size. Wondering if your 1025 sat for a long time on a lot resulting in the seals drying out?

So it's not like dumping oatmeal in your car radiator, simply a conditioner. I would think if you drained it the seal would remain conditioned. Also IMHO it must be a seal or rubber ring leaking vs a bolt/copper washer type leak. Don't believe you need to worry about it clogging some orifice. However who knows if it is compatible with every type of seal used by JD? And as mentioned it will take several fluid changes to completely remove it.

One other concern- Will using it void your warranty?

Also, always wonder if some dealers simply add some of these products as easy repairs? :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
As to the last few questions.

The tractor was the only 1 series sitting on the dealer lot when I bought it, The seat was pretty mildewed so it may have been sitting a while, but I don't really know.

The leak spot was right under the center of the rear axle. Since this is the lowest spot the fluid could have been leaking from anywhere higher up, just dripping there due to gravity.

The only hoses I had disconnected were the quick connects to the FEL to remove it a few times. And I guess the hose to the strainer would count too. But things in the area of the FEL connectors and the strainer have looked and felt dry every time I've checked.

I did clean and pressure wash the underside to try to spot the origin of the leak, but did not use any dye in the fluid. I thought it might have been coming from the area of the filter, but the leak continued just the same after a fluid and filter change, which I did myself. So I know the filter was actually changed and the correct fluid was used.

I did lose track of fluid when I did the first fluid change and overfilled by about a quart, but I realized it right away and used a siphon syringe to remove the excess down to the right dip stick level before I ran the tractor. It was leaking the same both before and after that first fluid change.

I got the fluid and the filter changed yesterday, and things are still dry under the tractor today after about 24 hours. But it hasn't been run yet. I'm heading out to drag the riding arena with it now, so I'll keep an eye out.
 
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