How do the hydraulic couplers come loose? I've never had them off and I'm taking the loader off and can't get the couplers to move. They are rusty no doubt, I've sprayed penetrating oil on them. Is the outer collar supposed to slide back like an air hose chuck? Thanks in advance!
Hydraulic lines, hydraulic couplers won’t come loose.
Duck13
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How do the hydraulic couplers come loose? I've never had them off and I'm taking the loader off and can't get the couplers to move. They are rusty no doubt, I've sprayed penetrating oil on them. Is the outer collar supposed to slide back like an air hose chuck? Thanks in advance!
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Did you relieve the hydraulic pressure by shutting down and then moving the joystick through all its positions prior to uncoupling?
Thanks, that got the collar loose so I got it slide back. The hose still wouldn't come out, put a wrench on it and get it to rotate a bit. More penetrating oil and I've got where I can rotate it by hand. Still can't get it to come out. Tried prying between the couple and fitting with a screwdriver without luck. Any other little tricks you know of? I suspect they haven't been disconnected since the loader was put on it new.
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What tractor/year? Most likely one or all of the balls are crudded up and need more tlc. I could be wrong, but....
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4410 about 2002 I think. I've been soaking them in penetrating oil and the outer one I've gotten the sleeve loosened up well and can rotate the fitting inside the coupler but it feels rough. I'll keep after it. Thanks!
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Well, I've got one line separated, it came loose when I tried to put the loader back on the tractor so I could deal with the couplers in the comfort of my shop. I've had ATF/acetone penatrating oil on them for a couple of weeks. I got the sleeve pushed back on the one coupler by taking a hammer and punch to it. The others haven't budged from similar treatment. Now I can't get the sleeve to slide back on the one to get the loader back on the tractor. I've tried heat too, a MAP torch, hasn't seem to have helped. Anyone with lots of experience with these? Should I just plan on buying new couplers and lines? The dirt/corrosion on the male fitting, can I clean that up with emery cloth? What would be keeping the one coupler from sliding back, the balls all seem to be free.
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I spent many years on farms. Lots of multiple hookup hydraulic implements. I'm not going to say this is the proper way to get them apart, but we always used as much brute force as it took to get them apart. No screwdrivers. I'm talking a long pry bar CHAINED to the hose, and then PULL. Never did break one.
After I typed the above I happened to think that the mounting brackets on your tractor probably aren't as solid as the ones on a 400 hp tractor, so don't bend your brackets if you try that.
Another option would be unscrew the ends from the pipe thread on the hose and tractor and take it in the shop to a vise where you have a little easier access.
After I typed the above I happened to think that the mounting brackets on your tractor probably aren't as solid as the ones on a 400 hp tractor, so don't bend your brackets if you try that.
Another option would be unscrew the ends from the pipe thread on the hose and tractor and take it in the shop to a vise where you have a little easier access.
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I presume you at least got the collar back before applying brute force? I may be able to back the tractor up a bit and get a bigger hammer on the punch to knock the collars back. Getting it to the workbench is a great idea.
Yes. Although once when I was a teenager I unhooked a disc in a hurry and forgot the hoses
. The couplers did unhook when I drove the tractor away with no noticable damage.
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Wow! Sounds like you got lucky.Yes. Although once when I was a teenager I unhooked a disc in a hurry and forgot the hoses
Take and just spray some wd40 and move the joystick around and lock the bucket joystick
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My couplers don't get exercised much. front Snow Blower or FEL (winter or not-winter), BH on or off when needed but it doesn't seem to have this issue. When not connected, the couplers have the caps/plugs. Seems the front couplers have gritted up and are hard to slide. I do take all the pressure off with power off and let everything sit a little before starting. Wiggle the joysitcks again and again. I have tried SuperLube, WD 40, brake cleaner, compressed air, all to try to clean out the connector grit on the slide coupler. The balls seem ok, seals seem ok. It seems that I can't get the coupler to slide open far enough by hand for it to release or when reconnecting. I have taken to using a open end wrench just the size of the coupler that lets me push it down harder evenly. I am thinking of making a special tool to do that job. A T-handle wrench that lets me push directly on the coupler with the 'wrench' part ground to size and shape sounds about right. I try to make sure they are clean and free moving before reassembly, but I must have bad karma at times.
Oh, a couple times when I got the coupler to move ok when reconnecting, I ended up with pressure in the disconnected FEL line. Maybe a shift or temp change. I just couldn't push the fitting in far enough to engage. I use channel lock pliers and a craft stick (I have lots of those) on the pressure ball all wrapped in a rag to release it. Works a lot better and no fluid in the face. Wish Ken was still selling that Waite tool.
So far no signs of rust or corrosion I can find. Just the gritties.
Oh, a couple times when I got the coupler to move ok when reconnecting, I ended up with pressure in the disconnected FEL line. Maybe a shift or temp change. I just couldn't push the fitting in far enough to engage. I use channel lock pliers and a craft stick (I have lots of those) on the pressure ball all wrapped in a rag to release it. Works a lot better and no fluid in the face. Wish Ken was still selling that Waite tool.
So far no signs of rust or corrosion I can find. Just the gritties.
There are multiple types of hydraulic couplings,,Yes. Although once when I was a teenager I unhooked a disc in a hurry and forgot the hoses
one of them is called a "Breakaway Coupling"
It is truly designed to release under enough pull.
Researching the fitting might result in finding out the fitting is a breakaway type??
On another note,, when I got my IH tractor, it had rear hydraulic connections
The tractor was 25 years old,,
the connectors were in such bad shape from weathering,, when I took out the protective rubber caps, several of the small balls fell out.
I just took the fitting to a local Parker store, he sold me an exact replacement.
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