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Anybody have a hydraulic top link for their 3320? If so, can you advise how you like it and where you got it? Thanks!
 

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Anybody have a hydraulic top link for their 3320? If so, can you advise how you like it and where you got it? Thanks!
First check the range of lengths you are using. Most implements only require the first 60% of the top link to be used. Type of tires will make a difference in the setting between tractors. R1 tires are taller than R4 and R4 are taller than turf tires. So if you ask a friend with the same tractor make sure he has the same tires as you do.
 

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I have the same one from my 3720 now on my 4520. I have the one from hay tools and its been great for the 4 years i have owned it.

Sent via TapaTalk from a hunting blind near you. :)
 

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Google Fit rite hydralics, Brian will custom make what ever you need for about the cost of the CCM link. I'm not a fan of the cumbersome check valves they use.

Matt
 

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Google Fit rite hydralics, Brian will custom make what ever you need for about the cost of the CCM link. I'm not a fan of the cumbersome check valves they use.

Matt
Thats great, options are needed. What makes you feel the check valves are cumbersome? What I really like about the check valve is the ability to unhook the cylinder from the scv and for it to hold it position and allow the imatch to still be usable. I only have one set of rear outlets, so for me, its perfect.

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Thats great, options are needed. What makes you feel the check valves are cumbersome? What I really like about the check valve is the ability to unhook the cylinder from the scv and for it to hold it position and allow the imatch to still be usable. I only have one set of rear outlets, so for me, its perfect.

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Brian,

Your set up works good? I also only have one rear remote set and an iMatch I just got today actually. I use the one rear set occasionally for my grapple. I'm thinking I would usually have my regular loader on and plug my top link into my one remote. Is that how you run yours? Maybe down the road I'll get another remote and the tilt cylinder.
 

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Do the check valves require allow smooth adjustment of the cylinder, or do they require a high pressure 'pop' to open them first? What benefit do they provide over disconnecting the quick connects with regard to load holding, aside from still working after a potential line failure?
 

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Do the check valves require allow smooth adjustment of the cylinder, or do they require a high pressure 'pop' to open them first? What benefit do they provide over disconnecting the quick connects with regard to load holding, aside from still working after a potential line failure?
The cracking pressure for the DPOCV's is about 600psi, some report a chattering when trying to feather the cylinder slowly, I have not seen that with mine however. Disconnecting the lines and letting the QD's hold the pressure to keep the cylinder from moving is a viable alternative, but getting the QD's to disconnect/connect under load is troublesome.
 

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I just feel like they're more of a liability and could contact other parts and break. Brian at Fitrite Hydralics will build to order and has many a happy customer(as does CCM). But for me the fitrite was the better option.

Matt
 

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There are pluses and minuses to everything. If one out weighs the other for your purposes, then go with what works best for you. There are certain conditions where one type is better than the other. There is no "this one is better than that one". Each type has it's merritts.
 
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