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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What length are you guys running? I put a 20 to 28-in unit on here and collapsed it is shorter than the factory top link but I feel like it barely gives me any upward angle on the box. On the 2038 I am able to angle it to just drag the ripper teeth or which is especially helpful raise the back of the bush hog up pretty high in the air to clear a hill. In the mid position I barely get any forward angle fully retracted and a ridiculous amount of downward angle fully extended. I almost feel like an 18 to 26 would have been better but it doesn't make any sense based on what the factory top link length is. I have it in the middle pin, the top pin is a little better but then you lose rear lift height.

My lower draft link arms for fully retracted, I extended them about an inch so that it would go low enough to pick up an implement. What extending that change the geometry?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Can someone put this back in the large frame compact forum please.
 

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JD 455, 4610, 4052R, and 6120E
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As discussed here, I also installed a 20 in. to 28 in. top link, and wish the retracted link was a little shorter.

 

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Fully collapse and fully extend your OEM manual top link, and measure both extremes. Center of eye to center of eye.
Hunt for a hydraulic link that best matches those numbers.

If what you have is a shorter collapsed length, than your manual link, you should see more of an angle. Do you have the tractor side pin, in the same hole as before? Usually there are 2 to 3 holes, allowing different attack angles for ground engaging implements.

Got any before and after pics, comparing everything?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the info. I think I will try it out a bit more after adjustments and see how she goes. Factory link was 22" closed. Didn't seem right.
 

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Fit Rite Hydraulics
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I have found that a 19 1/2"-27 1/2" seems to work the best.

This is what I have sold for almost all of my customers with the 30xx & 40xx and R frame sizes. Not one has been returned for being the wrong working length other than those few that had Pat's quick hitch and never told me about that addition. Pat's requires a 3" longer stroke to work properly for that application.

I had a customer once thinking that he wanted -needed something else. I told him what he was asking for simply did not make sense for his application. I told him to get what I normally provide, if he was not happy, he could return it for something different or a full refund. Never heard back from him, so I assume that it worked out fine for him.

Measuring the collapsed and extended length of the manual link is not the best way to determine the best working length for a hydraulic top link. While that might work fine for some makes and models, I have found that it typically is not the case for most applications.

Look at the following link and do what the link says to do if you want to determine what will work best for your applications.

 

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JD 455, 4610, 4052R, and 6120E
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Look at the following link and do what the link says to do if you want to determine what will work best for your applications.

Brian,

That procedure only determines the mid stroke pin-pin distance. It does nothing for determining the min and max pin-pin distance a user might need.

A 19 1/2" min length is a good compromise, but still a bit long for my needs to adequately lower the front edge of the box blade.
 

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Fit Rite Hydraulics
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Brian,

That procedure only determines the mid stroke pin-pin distance. It does nothing for determining the min and max pin-pin distance a user might need.

A 19 1/2" min length is a good compromise, but still a bit long for my needs to adequately lower the front edge of the box blade.
That gives you an exact starting point. If you feel that you need more retraction than extension for your applications, fine. But it gives you a point to start from based on YOUR needs. As you have already gathered, the OEM links do not meet what is required for your application.
Need to keep in mind, very few hydraulic links provide the range that so many "think" that they need.

I would say that the range that you and so many think that you need is simply not attainable with any std type hydraulic top link for your model3. If you want to spend thousands, and I do mean many thousands to get a multi stage unit made, more power to you.

Good luck in your search, please report back what you end up with so that others looking for what you are can be helped out. :)

PS, the way that you want to operate your box blade, it is not intended to be used in that fashion. Pay attention to how you change the digging angle of the scarifiers. Many many people do what you want to do, but it does not make it the correct way to use the implement. I would guess that most of them have a much wider working range which simply is not going to work properly on your tractor. Just the way it is from what I have seen.

Again, good luck. :)
 

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Fit Rite Hydraulics
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I was just thinking, with your box blade attached, set the implement down where the cutting edges are down on a 4x4 with some weight on them. Set the scarifiers how you want them set and still be able to grade smooth. Disconnect the top link, lower the hitch to where the scarifiers are where you want them. Measure the pin-pin distance.

There is the fully collapsed measurement. Go from there.
 

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PS, the way that you want to operate your box blade, it is not intended to be used in that fashion.
Brian,

Thanks for taking the time to offer suggestions, but I have been operating a 4 series tractor with a box blade for 17 yrs, and have a pretty good grasp of how to setup and use a box blade.

If you drove up my 1/2 mile long gravel driveway, you would probably agree that I know how to grade with a box blade.

In the 16 years I operated with the original JD top link, I never had a problem adjusting the leading edge of the box blade where I wanted it by shortening the top link. I was surprised and disappointed when I installed a hydraulic top link to discover that it bottomed out before reaching that same grading attitude. Clearly, the 19 7/8" minimum length of my top link cylinder is not a match for the OEM top link that it replaced.

I will probably disassemble the cylinder, cut off the implement end, remove 1 to 1.5 inch of cylinder rod, bevel the ends, and TIG weld the end back on to correct the problem. Fortunately, there seems to be plenty of excess rod sticking out of the cylinder after the piston bottoms to support this modification.

One of the challenges those of us face who grade our driveways with a box blade is keeping a clean edge between the driveway gravel and the adjacent mown grassy areas without spreading gravel into those adjacent areas. Lowering the leading edge of the box blade so the sides are at or below ground level is one tool in minimizing spill-over into the adjacent grass. There may be other ways of accomplishing this goal, but what I have found as a solution has worked well for me.

There are few worse sounds that hitting gravel with your newly sharpened mower blades!
 

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Fit Rite Hydraulics
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I'm not saying that you don't know what you're doing, just that the box blade is not designed to be used in that way.
As I have mentioned, lots of people operate in that fashion.

Once you have the top link how you want it, please post back so that we know what you ended up with and others will not have to go through what you are having to do if they are attempting to do the same process.

I am curious what you actually end up with for an overall working length. :unsure:
 

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I'm not saying that you don't know what you're doing, just that the box blade is not designed to be used in that way.
Brian,

What way is that??? Since you didn't design the box blade, how could you possibly make that statement in good faith?

The Frontier Box Blade user manual that I have says nothing about any operational limitation on rotating the box blade forward or backward with the top link. Quite the contrary. There are many operational modes discussed which require the top link to be shortened/lengthened, and never any mention of an operational limitation.

I thought that perhaps the user manual might only discuss using the box blade in a level attitude, but that it not the case at all.
 

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Fit Rite Hydraulics
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I stand corrected, Frontier box blade manuals list tilting the box forward as one of the adjustments.

Land pride manuals specifically say for optimum use, all the cutting angles are designed for the box to be level front-back. I assumed that all of the manual adjust box blades are basically the same, I guess not.

I am not going to debate this, do as you will, it works for you and that is what counts. (y)
 

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I've had two box blades now that the first one would be able to rotate downward enough to get the scarifiers in the ground only, the second one and newest I'm not able to do that. Seem the beam height is a little different causing my issue. Both on the same tractor. There is definitely some give and take with the link setup. If you intend to cut and weld the rod it can be done on the tractor. Just have to cool and protect the rod at full extension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just and update, the 19" link was really starting to annoy me. I ended up using this 18-28 top link from AMA. Its the perfect length with the I match. It allows me to get about 15 degrees up angle on the implement. Only sucky part are the bsp fittings, it comes with male adapters but all my lines are male as well, found a specialty dealer online that had bsp to npt female adapers and it works great with 30" 3/8 lines.

 

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Just and update, the 19" link was really starting to annoy me. I ended up using this 18-28 top link from AMA. Its the perfect length with the I match. It allows me to get about 15 degrees up angle on the implement. Only sucky part are the bsp fittings, it comes with male adapters but all my lines are male as well, found a specialty dealer online that had bsp to npt female adapers and it works great with 30" 3/8 lines.

Arsenix - Have you noticed any issues with the 2" cylinder bore from the TSC top link? I got a look at the factory JD cylinder, and they are ~3" bore size. I was concerned that going smaller may cause some lift capacity loss.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I've only used it with my box blades so far and no issues. The heaviest implement I have is an MX6 mower. Have not tried it yet. It has a pulling force of 4,300 lb. I would think it would be adequate. I can let you know next time I hook it up but might be a while.
 
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