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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2038R w/ OEM 3rd function & PB.
The 3rd function is powering top & tilt cylinders. Works great, except I don’t think my float function is working.
To test, I picked up my rotary cutter and retracted the top cylinder, lifting the back end with the wheel into the air (see picture).
I push the number II lever all the way forward and can clearly feel the lever go into the detent position… I would expect the cylinder, in float mode, to extend and lower the back of the mower to the ground? Instead, it seems to freeze the cylinder in it’s current position, won’t move at all. Any ideas?
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If you have a cylinder with a DPOCV (double pilot operated check valve) on it, it will not "float", not sure what you have?
 

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I could tell in .0005 seconds with a picture ;)

"Locking Block", LOL. gotta love it :LOL:

Furnishing: High Quality and Workmanship....but can't translate for Chines to English well o_O
 

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I could tell in .0005 seconds with a picture ;)

"Locking Block", LOL. gotta love it :LOL:

Furnishing: High Quality and Workmanship....but can't translate for Chines to English well o_O
Actually I think the company is in Holland. If it's Spare Parts Holland this is the address on their website: Fluitersweg 170, Apeldoorn (NL)
 

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I was just looking at that toplink on Amazon last night, how important is float for the toplink? The price on this seems like a good deal and I'm not sure I'll need float but since I'm new to all this tractor stuff not sure what I'm missing out on.
 

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how important is float for the toplink?
The threaded rod top link that comes with every three point hitch doesn't float.

If I need more travel than the floating link on the cutter hitch provides I just remove the top link.
 

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Ok, I'm looking at the use case initially of a powerrake and that has a toplink hookup that will let it float a bit with a standard toplink, being able to adjust the "cut" depth of the rake on the fly was what had me interested in a hydraulic top link. The rake has an angle cylinder so I don't really need top and tilt so for the price of the amazon toplink I had interest. Just didn't know later on for other attachments what I might be missing out on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Are the check valves contained in the rectangular block that is plumbed parallel to the cylinder?
If so, can I remove this section at the banjo bolts, and run my hoses directly into the sides of cylinder, enabling the float?
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Are the check valves contained in the rectangular block that is plumbed parallel to the cylinder?
Yes.

If so, can I remove this section at the banjo bolts, and run my hoses directly into the sides of cylinder, enabling the float?
Yes, IF you can figure out the threads and get proper adapters to the hoses.
 
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disclaimer here; OP this is not intended to be an "I told you so" post at all.

I too, am just learning about hydraulics. A situation like this is why I grossly over paid for the JD factory kit (mine was for a 3 Series). I understand a top and tilt kit can be piece milled together on the cheap, and they work just fine for those that have done it. For me, I am pretty darn rural and local resources are limited, so is my time. Not having the luxury of time and local resources - I needed it to fit and work the first time. I bit the bullet and ordered the JD kit. It fits right and works like its supposed to. I will say, the JD cylinders are nothing like standard cylinders, they are 100% custom to the application.

OP keep us posted on the fix you work out. This is the type of knowledge I need to gain. I have other tractors I may do something similar to your setup on.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Like you ridesdirt, I like OEM, but I didn't see a JD top/tilt kit offered for my 2038 when I bought it. Maybe I could have used 3-series parts numbers and it would have worked fine, but I ended up ordering cylinders on my own and having a local hydraulic shop make the hoses/fittings I needed.

After further thought, I think I'm just going to stick with what I have, for a few reasons:
1. I'd only use the float on two of my implements.. a rotary cutter and land plane. For everything else I'd prefer it doesn't bleed down. My tilt cylinder bleeds and every half hour I have to give it a little bump to bring my ballast box back to level. I've been using a rotary cutter for a few years now on my very un-even property, and have gotten the hang of it, so I don't really NEED the float at this point. And for the land plane, I can just put a chain in the place of the top link, so it can float but still be lifted when I need to turn around.
2. I hadn't considered the safety aspect of the implement dropping in the case of a hose failure. I like the idea of it not falling to the ground (or on me) if pressure is lost.

If I decide in the future that I just have to have the float function, I'll purchase a new top cylinder without the check valves installed, so I still have the option to go back with a simple swap.
 
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