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I own a GT 245 and have developed a no movement (forward or reverse) issue with the pedals. This happens when I'm on it (180 lbs) but will go forward/reverse when I'm off and then push down on the pedals. I've noticed it slightly and progressively got worse till now, and it won't go at all. The pedal does not retract on its own but seems like its broken. Following it back the arm moves in both directions back to the transmission switch. There seems like there should be more tension on the pedals. I looked for a spring regarding the tension idea but didn't see any or if one is required, it fell off. Any ideas I can try to diagnose this issue?
 

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Yes, have you checked the Hydro fluid level recently? When was the last time it was serviced?
 

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Here is an illustration from the parts book for your GT245 showing the pedals and linkage.

Screenshot_2021-01-11 John Deere Parts Catalog(2).png
 

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fluid level is a little down but far from the line to refill. I've never had it serviced as I've done my own maintenance since I bought it new. Specifically, the hydraulic oil has 570 hours and never replaced.
 

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When you say there is no movement with
fluid level is a little down but far from the line to refill. I've never had it serviced as I've done my own maintenance since I bought it new. Specifically, the hydraulic oil has 570 hours and never replaced.
That's where you need to start. Changing the fluid and filter. It's possible a fluid change will restore function. Possible.

570 hours on the original fluid and filter is what I am hearing?
 
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Did I understand that without anyone on the seat and the directional pedals pushed, the machine will respond with some tire movement but with the operator on the machine, it won't move?

Do you have the seat safety switch bypassed for the machine to run let alone move without anyone in the seat?

If that's the case and the tractor slightly moves with pedal pressure, its possible the hydro filter is either plugged or collapsed internally. Make sure to only use the correct John Deere fluid and filter for the hydro service.
 
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Wow 570 hours on original trans fluid I think you need to change it and the filter. You got your moneys worth out of that fluid for sure 👍🏻🙂
 

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I’d put the odds around 50/50 on this.

1-the linkage broke, or the input pulley stripped the splines and cannot transmit power into the transmission

2-the fluid got to hot and kept being used and now the transmission is junk. New fluid might make it better for a short period of time, but all the internal wear causes localized heat that just kills new fluid.
 
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I’d put the odds around 50/50 on this.

1-the linkage broke, or the input pulley stripped the splines and cannot transmit power into the transmission

2-the fluid got to hot and kept being used and now the transmission is junk. New fluid might make it better for a short period of time, but all the internal wear causes localized heat that just kills new fluid.
If the fluid did get hot, it should be darker in color. New fluid will be almost "water white" or very light straw color.
 

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If the fluid did get hot, it should be darker in color. New fluid will be almost "water white" or very light straw color.
Hygard gets darker with age if you use it or not. I’ve had people give me old unopened bottles of hygard with tractors I bought from them and when opened it looked more like 15w40 then hygard. I didn’t use it. It must be one of the additives either oxidizes or otherwise changes with time.
 

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Hygard gets darker with age if you use it or not. I’ve had people give me old unopened bottles of hygard with tractors I bought from them and when opened it looked more like 15w40 then hygard. I didn’t use it. It must be one of the additives either oxidizes or otherwise changes with time.
I have seen the same thing. The fluid darkens, but doesn't smell burnt or "roasted", Also, its viscosity seems the same and other than the color, it doesn't seem "different". But I also chose to pass on the use of it.

The other thing I have seen a couple of times on machines which were never serviced is after 20 years, the inside of the filters sort of "fell apart" and plugged the filter by all of the filter panels sticking together. I have a filter inspection tool for opening the filters as we always inspected our racing engine oil filters. That's where the real value of a filter is seen and why paying for a quality filter is always a good investment and cheap filters are often cheap for a reason...............

I also agree with the other conclusions about the possible linkage issues, which is why I attached the illustration from the parts book. I would suggest carefully inspecting the linkage and seeing if something is broken, missing or gone. Also check the drive pulley on the unit. If mechanically all of the pieces seem functional then I would service the unit and give it a try.

There have been a couple of machines over the years which I have encountered similar to this situation and a filter change and fluid flush were able to get the machines going again. lt's worth the shot.

I do hope the OP posts picutres of the fluid when he drains it out so we can see it. I also hope they stay in touch and let us know what they find so we can help further. I have seen other machines go this long without filter and fluid changes. It's not what we like to see, but what's done is done and lets do what we can to remedy the situation.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here is an illustration from the parts book for your GT245 showing the pedals and linkage.

View attachment 770374
fluid level is a little down but far from the line to refill. I've never had it serviced as I've done my own maintenance since I bought it new. Specifically, the hydraulic oil has 570 hours and never replaced.
I have seen the same thing. The fluid darkens, but doesn't smell burnt or "roasted", Also, its viscosity seems the same and other than the color, it doesn't seem "different". But I also chose to pass on the use of it.

The other thing I have seen a couple of times on machines which were never serviced is after 20 years, the inside of the filters sort of "fell apart" and plugged the filter by all of the filter panels sticking together. I have a filter inspection tool for opening the filters as we always inspected our racing engine oil filters. That's where the real value of a filter is seen and why paying for a quality filter is always a good investment and cheap filters are often cheap for a reason...............

I also agree with the other conclusions about the possible linkage issues, which is why I attached the illustration from the parts book. I would suggest carefully inspecting the linkage and seeing if something is broken, missing or gone. Also check the drive pulley on the unit. If mechanically all of the pieces seem functional then I would service the unit and give it a try.

There have been a couple of machines over the years which I have encountered similar to this situation and a filter change and fluid flush were able to get the machines going again. lt's worth the shot.

I do hope the OP posts picutres of the fluid when he drains it out so we can see it. I also hope they stay in touch and let us know what they find so we can help further. I have seen other machines go this long without filter and fluid changes. It's not what we like to see, but what's done is done and lets do what we can to remedy the situation.
will keep everyone informed. I called John Deere today about the filter and they said it was inside the transmission and he left it to that!
I do not see any obvious hydraulic filters. So, if I'm blind please let me know where its located.
 

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No hydrostat filter mentioned in the hydro oil change instructions in the GT245 OM.

It does mention that there are 2 drain plugs. One on the hydrostatic side and one on the differential gear side and that the sides are interconnected and share the same oil.
 

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Since the machine has been running the same fluid for so long, I would drain the old fluid, fill it with the correct new fluid and then run the machine for maybe an hour and drain it again and refill it with new fluid again. Use the first change as a "rinse" of the inside of the system.

Let us know how this turns out.............
 

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I went to the Tuff Torq website and looked for a K71 Service Manual or other technical source as I have gotten some very good technical information from Tuff Torq which was helpful. I found nothing for this unit available and all of the sources direct you to the JD GT245 Technical Service Manual...................which I also don't have. I have never owned one of these machines so I don't have any of this stuff in my JD resources.......

Here is a link to being able to access the John Deere Technical Service manual for this machine. It appears to be around $15 to read it online. If that's the real deal, its a steal as we all know the actual John Deere TSM's are worth their weight in gold and are charged the same.............

Please note, I simply found this site when searching. I know NOTHING about it and whether its valid or not. Proceed at your own peril or delight. Caveat emptor and all of that.............


 

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I went to the Tuff Torq website and looked for a K71 Service Manual or other technical source as I have gotten some very good technical information from Tuff Torq which was helpful. I found nothing for this unit available and all of the sources direct you to the JD GT245 Technical Service Manual...................which I also don't have. I have never owned one of these machines so I don't have any of this stuff in my JD resources.......

Here is a link to being able to access the John Deere Technical Service manual for this machine. It appears to be around $15 to read it online. If that's the real deal, its a steal as we all know the actual John Deere TSM's are worth their weight in gold and are charged the same.............

Please note, I simply found this site when searching. I know NOTHING about it and whether its valid or not. Proceed at your own peril or delight. Caveat emptor and all of that.............


Well, it looks like found the problem, the drive belt tension spring was not in the right place. Therefore the belt was slipping. Reconnected in the correct spot and now have a nice tight belt I drained the oil before finding the problem so have not tested yet. Oil was very dirty but did not smell burnt. Before I put the new oil in I'd like to flush out the oil tank. What should be used to flush the system?
 

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I went to the Tuff Torq website and looked for a K71 Service Manual or other technical source as I have gotten some very good technical information from Tuff Torq which was helpful. I found nothing for this unit available and all of the sources direct you to the JD GT245 Technical Service Manual...................which I also don't have. I have never owned one of these machines so I don't have any of this stuff in my JD resources.......

Here is a link to being able to access the John Deere Technical Service manual for this machine. It appears to be around $15 to read it online. If that's the real deal, its a steal as we all know the actual John Deere TSM's are worth their weight in gold and are charged the same.............

Please note, I simply found this site when searching. I know NOTHING about it and whether its valid or not. Proceed at your own peril or delight. Caveat emptor and all of that.............


I just ordered it, can't lose for$15
 

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Well, it looks like found the problem, the drive belt tension spring was not in the right place. Therefore the belt was slipping. Reconnected in the correct spot and now have a nice tight belt I drained the oil before finding the problem so have not tested yet. Oil was very dirty but did not smell burnt. Before I put the new oil in I'd like to flush out the oil tank. What should be used to flush the system?
deere low viscosity hy‑gard
 

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What should be used to flush the system?
SulleyBear and jmb6420 have both given good advice.

Use the Deere Low Vicosity Hy-GARD.
Refill, run for a little while (I'm thinking 10 or 15 minutes, rather than an hour) then drain and refill again.

The Deere fluid is surprisingly inexpensive (and it doesn't hold much anyway)
Deere has more than one hydraulic fluid. You want the one the low viscosity version.
You want the Deere Low-Vis Hy-Gard

Transmission Oil John Deere Low Viscosity HY-GARD® (J20D)
Transmission 4.4 L (4.6 qt)
 

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Once you get the fluid changed, it's going to run like a new tractor. Just curious, how did the tension spring end up in the wrong location? New fluid will do the machine good. When you refill it, I would measure out each quart of the fluid and when you have added as much fluid as its supposed to hold, check the dipstick for the fluid level.

Now some machines want you to unscrew the dip stick and check it with the dip stick sitting on top of the dip stick location. Others, will just have you check the dip stick by removing it. THe owners manual and or the TSM should tell you what you need.

Hope this solves the performance problem as it likely will. I would check the drive belt to make sure its not worn or damaged from the slipping when the tension wasn't set correctly. If the belt is shiny, or if it's the original belt, I would seriously consider replacing it so the tractor drives correctly. Chances are you are going to be very pleased with the performance of your machine once you get it back together.

Make sure to post follow up and let us know the final conclusion on the entire matter.
 
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