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Discussion Starter #1
It’s a older 2950, just got the AC going and started putting it to work since buying it. The hydraulics aren’t weak but here are my problems. Slow front end loader, everything bleeds down fast. Front loader goes down while driving it. The pull shredder with one hydraulic line, well the shredder bleeds down as well. I know what most would say or I think. Change filter, clean screen and put new fluid. The fluid in it is really clean, no water in it. I don’t know if the last owner did a filter or cleaned the screen. Not really even sure about anything on this tractors system. If I run high RPMs it seems to help but i do believe it should be a lot better then it currently is.

I own a 5055, it had water in it around 300hrs and nothing worked, like it had air in the system, changed filter cleaned screen and put JD fluid in it and it’s perfect... that’s about all I’ve ever down with hydraulics.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
It’s a older 2950, just got the AC going and started putting it to work since buying it. The hydraulics aren’t weak but here are my problems. Slow front end loader, everything bleeds down fast. Front loader goes down while driving it. The pull shredder with one hydraulic line, well the shredder bleeds down as well. I know what most would say or I think. Change filter, clean screen and put new fluid. The fluid in it is really clean, no water in it. I don’t know if the last owner did a filter or cleaned the screen. Not really even sure about anything on this tractors system. If I run high RPMs it seems to help but i do believe it should be a lot better then it currently is. Last owner did say he changed the fluids in the machine. Like I mentioned it is all clean. No water

I also own a 5055, it had water in it around 300hrs and nothing worked, like it had air in the system, changed filter cleaned screen and put JD fluid in it and it’s perfect... that’s about all I’ve ever down with hydraulics.

I forgot to mention just turning the front wheels make a noise and seems to draw the system down (under a load feeling) unless at a higher rpm.
 

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Before you go changing fluids, do the hydraulic lines for your loader have quick connects? If the do, raise your loader, shut the machine down and disconnect the lines. If the loader still drops your loader's cylinders are leaking internally. They'd need to be rebuilt or replaced. If the loader stays up your issues are elsewhere and you'd need to start working your way through the system.
 

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Before you go changing fluids, do the hydraulic lines for your loader have quick connects? If the do, raise your loader, shut the machine down and disconnect the lines. If the loader still drops your loader's cylinders are leaking internally. They'd need to be rebuilt or replaced. If the loader stays up your issues are elsewhere and you'd need to start working your way through the system.
To the OP...if you do this, make sure you can get a floor jack under it (or similar) to take the pressure off when you are done with your experiment, or you will be swearing trying to get the quick connects hooked up again:laugh:

One other thing, and this is hard for many people to visualize, but it is important...
The boom cylinders CAN’T leak down with the quick connects disconnected, even if the seals are bad.
The rod can not retract into the cylinder because the fluid had no where to go. You could completely remove the internal seals, and it still wouldn’t leak down. You can’t get away from the fact that the rod has to displace oil to retract.

If you disconnected the quick connects AND cracked open the rod end fitting and oil starts pouring out while the boom drops, that would prove you have leaking cylinder seals.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Before you go changing fluids, do the hydraulic lines for your loader have quick connects? If the do, raise your loader, shut the machine down and disconnect the lines. If the loader still drops your loader's cylinders are leaking internally. They'd need to be rebuilt or replaced. If the loader stays up your issues are elsewhere and you'd need to start working your way through the system.
To the OP...if you do this, make sure you can get a floor jack under it (or similar) to take the pressure off when you are done with your experiment, or you will be swearing trying to get the quick connects hooked up again


One other thing, and this is hard for many people to visualize, but it is important...
The boom cylinders CAN’T leak down with the quick connects disconnected, even if the seals are bad.
The rod can not retract into the cylinder because the fluid had no where to go. You could completely remove the internal seals, and it still wouldn’t leak down. You can’t get away from the fact that the rod has to displace oil to retract.

If you disconnected the quick connects AND cracked open the rod end fitting and oil starts pouring out while the boom drops, that would prove you have leaking cylinder seals.
No that’s easy to visualize and makes sense on the front hydraulics. I was also thinking about the rear hydraulics on the shredder. Why they stay up longer when the tractor is at a higher rpm and not at a low. When I say they drop fast I mean fast. You have to bump it up every couple minutes to keep it from dragging on the ground. With the other tractor this would happen sometimes but not nearly as often. I used that shredder maybe 2 months ago on the 2015 deere.

Also the hydraulic pump on the 2950 really does draw down the motor if you are below 1000 rpm and just lift the loader at neutral.... expect more but I will try what y’all say with that the loader and see, I don’t want to change fluid because what’s in it looks really clean. Seems like atleast one of the cylinders would be good and keep the loader up Without Bucket weight and just small forks. 4 separate hydraulic quick disconnect lines for the loader. I would just think the chances of both being bad would be pretty crappy. No leaking on outside. One appears to have been rebuilt at one time or another the cylinder seal is cleaner then the other ones. These are the main 2 cylinders that lift the loader up.

Oh and I forgot to mention just turning the wheels seems to stress the motor. I’d compare it to a weak power steering pump sorta feel on a vehicle. Does this unless I’m at a higher rpm then it’s better.

On the newer 2015 deer I have the loader will go down if it’s just sitting off with the loader up... but never when the machine is running.
 

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More than likely 1 or more of the 4 poppet valves in the factory SCV's is leaking. You could get a 5000# gauge then put a short hose & male coupler on gauge then plug into rear breakaway coupler with engine idling activate lever correct direction to pressurize gauge to determine if SCV is leaking internally. Stand-by pressure should be 2250 but can be set to 2350 psi to help loader speed of operation.

DITTO what arlen stated that leaking piston seals on boom cylinders will not cause FEL boom to settle.
 

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Read my reply to your other similar question. I think you have 1 or more leaking poppet valves in tractor SCV
 

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I'll agree, leaking valves, or some internal leak bleeding off pressure.
I can leave the loader up on my 2030 and come back a week later and it will still be up. But I normally lower it to the ground when not in use.
But my 3pt hitch will quickly lower (if it has something attached) as soon as I shut off the tractor:flag_of_truce: For my use, I can live with it. I think it involves removing the rockshaft cover and rebuilding an internal valve to fix right. :flag_of_truce:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok... well sorta sounds like I should just leave it alone or get a specialist to look into it. I’ve noticed something else since using it in the field. I saw it missing on my tractor and was hoping that maybe it just didn’t have one. Then I went into some old pictures and I saw the lever on a tractor I looked at before I purchased my 2950 a 3155.... would someone please tell me i can still get by with a round hay Bailer without it.... I believe it takes 4 ports to operate a baler and im only seeing 2 levers on my tractor, sorta feel stupid for buying the tractor now with the problems I have but it is almost 40 years old. The way I’m seeing I’ve only got 2 levers for 4 ports 🏻 But then again 1 lever on my 2015 operates 2 ports. Here is a picture of the one I’m missing circled in yellow. In this picture I’m also seeing a knob circled in red that I’m missing. The 2950 and 3155 are 2 different tractors with the same interior... maybe nothing is wrong. I’m hoping it’s not. I plan on getting a baler next year and making it work on the 2950
 

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Lever encircled in yellow is to control a 3rd scv which probably scv has been removed. Some rd hay balers only require 1 scv with 1 set of rear breakaway couplers. I need to do some research to ID red knob in red circle but my 1st guess is knob shifts into creeper gear..
 

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One other thing, and this is hard for many people to visualize, but it is important...
The boom cylinders CAN’T leak down with the quick connects disconnected, even if the seals are bad.
The rod can not retract into the cylinder because the fluid had no where to go. You could completely remove the internal seals, and it still wouldn’t leak down. You can’t get away from the fact that the rod has to displace oil to retract.

If you disconnected the quick connects AND cracked open the rod end fitting and oil starts pouring out while the boom drops, that would prove you have leaking cylinder seals.
DITTO what arlen stated that leaking piston seals on boom cylinders will not cause FEL boom to settle.

I know the theory...but I've also seen first hand how a wrecked seal can cause loader to drift...there are two cylinders are plumbed in parallel, so I think that changes the dynamics a bit.

Not meaning to start a war about this, I just know what I know and what I've experienced first hand.


PS: I've merged the two thread on this together.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Lever encircled in yellow is to control a 3rd scv which probably scv has been removed. Some rd hay balers only require 1 scv with 1 set of rear breakaway couplers. I need to do some research to ID red knob in red circle but my 1st guess is knob shifts into creeper gear..
Creeper gear on the fly sounds handy for getting a baler rolling. I sorta wish I’d gotten that old 3155 but it was beaten up pretty good on the inside and had 7000hrs with no loader. Neighbor said he’s using a 80hp on his 4 by 6 and it’s bogging his tractor down. I read his baler was sorta heavy on machines but I didn’t want to bring it up. Anyways so....

My Neighbor stopped by today to talk and look at my tractor, me telling him about the hydraulics and even how the front end feels weak turning until you get everything flowing and some rpms going then he mentioned a screen. I thought about this and sorta wondered if it would be brought up on the thread. Does the 2950 have a screen that filters the fluid? It obviously doesn’t seem to have a round filter like my 5055e but the 5055 had a screen as well in the rear. Around 300hrs everything shuddered on it terrible. Thought air was in the lines. Fluid was milky BUT that screen. Oh was it clogged up with what I can only describe as paper. Once I changed oil and cleaned it everything was fine. Maybe the previous owner to my old 2950 changed the fluid but didn’t bother cleaning the screen or filter?
 

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Maybe the previous owner to my old 2950 changed the fluid but didn’t bother cleaning the screen or filter?


This could be your winning Bingo card........Worth looking at for sure.:munch:
 

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I know the theory...but I've also seen first hand how a wrecked seal can cause loader to drift...there are two cylinders are plumbed in parallel, so I think that changes the dynamics a bit.

Not meaning to start a war about this, I just know what I know and what I've experienced first hand.


PS: I've merged the two thread on this together.
I know what you mean... if your internal seals are bad, then the pressure equalizes between the cap end and rod end. If the valve port that is plumbed to the rod end is leaky too, then the loader bleeds down.
If you fix the seals, then it doesn’t drift.

If you unplug the quick connects, it won’t drift down...no matter what...no exceptions (unless it’s leaking externally).
I don’t see how having 2 cylinders in parallel changes things, hydraulically they behave like one cylinder.
My point was that unplugging the quick connects tells you nothing about the condition of your seals.
There are many single acting cylinders that don’t even have internal seals!
 

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Would you happen to know where the filter/screen is located?
Iron Horse--u need to learn how JD parts works--its not that hard to learn as the fellas on here(GTT) taught me.:laugh:

very nice to be able to look ur own parts up and to look at pics of ur equipment.:good2:
 

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Ok... well sorta sounds like I should just leave it alone or get a specialist to look into it. I’ve noticed something else since using it in the field. I saw it missing on my tractor and was hoping that maybe it just didn’t have one. Then I went into some old pictures and I saw the lever on a tractor I looked at before I purchased my 2950 a 3155.... would someone please tell me i can still get by with a round hay Bailer without it.... I believe it takes 4 ports to operate a baler and im only seeing 2 levers on my tractor, sorta feel stupid for buying the tractor now with the problems I have but it is almost 40 years old. The way I’m seeing I’ve only got 2 levers for 4 ports 🏻 But then again 1 lever on my 2015 operates 2 ports. Here is a picture of the one I’m missing circled in yellow. In this picture I’m also seeing a knob circled in red that I’m missing. The 2950 and 3155 are 2 different tractors with the same interior... maybe nothing is wrong. I’m hoping it’s not. I plan on getting a baler next year and making it work on the 2950
RE: Red knob, JD uses red for powertrain controls, so I am thinking same as TxJim, creeper trans control knob.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Trans screen(key 30) location is shown in photo. I was once told a picture is equal to a 1000 words.
Would you happen to know where the filter/screen is located?
Iron Horse--u need to learn how JD parts works--its not that hard to learn as the fellas on here(GTT) taught me.


very nice to be able to look ur own parts up and to look at pics of ur equipment.
Thanks TX, when I figure out what type of fluid it recommends I’ll check the screen. If it’s like the 5055 I worked on it’s all going to poor out.

And jim I try the online parts catalog like I was told, sometimes it’s a hit and miss trying to find parts or diagrams for me. Not sure why, sometimes more shows up then the next time I go to search it’s limited or even says “not found” . I wanted to get opinions on it anyways... I feel like I was walked through fixing my ac because of people like TX and others. Now it cools I think better then new tractors. Everyone on the local adds are searching for people to come window tint their new tractors and I’ve got my AC down on low in 95 heat feeling great.... that and I like discussing problems getting opinions. I’m 29 and the tractors 34 or 36 years old. The more I know the better.
 

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Iron
When you check sump screen you'll need to drain trans or insert nozzle of operating shop vacuum in hyd filler hole behind seat with remainder of hole blocked by shop towel to create a vacuum so oil won't drain out. JD recommends Hy-Gard or it's equivalent oil.
Jim
 
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