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Discussion Starter #21
It's great that it's a 2012, everything is still available for it. Deere has a bracket the accepts 3 SCV's that takes the place of the original loader SCV bracket. Just run hoses from 3rd SCV in back to loader bracket. There are no hard line kits. Bite the bullet and get, at least the diverted 4th & 5th SCV(push button, run with joystick), and the independent 4th & 5th( run by a switch for each, and can be used at any time as they are always live). I would even add the power beyond now, because if you go to add any one of these later there are special pipes that will be needed, and existing ones removed and discarded adding extra expense.
Great info thanks.
Are you saying to expect contact issues with the deck gauge wheels and the rear tires ?
it has brand new R4s on it. not sure on the size . I assume they are the same size as my 4066 and 4044 came with.
It is expected to arrive here at my place in the next week two at the most.
hopeful for late next week.
 

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Congratulations on finding that tractor.

I remember your post about the 17' batwing mower. How much grass do you mow every week?
 
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Discussion Starter #23
Around 10 -11 acres . Depends on how high the water is in my 8 acre pond. It varies a little. Water is down a lot right now. Adds at least an acre maybe 2 to yard whenever it’s down like it is right now.
 
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Great info thanks.
Are you saying to expect contact issues with the deck gauge wheels and the rear tires ?
it has brand new R4s on it. not sure on the size . I assume they are the same size as my 4066 and 4044 came with.
It is expected to arrive here at my place in the next week two at the most.
hopeful for late next week.
No not the gauge wheels, unless someone put monster wide,4''-plus wheel spacers, when you raise the deck to full height, even with the curvature on the back side of deck, the back of the deck will rub on almost the full width of the tires limiting how high you can raise the deck. there are actually holes in the frame mounting brackets for the trailing arms that allow you to raise to transport height, put in a pin on each side, pinning the deck all the way up,allopwing you to then use your 3PT hitch with the mower on. Only way to get to that height? install turf tires for the smaller tire diameter, increasing ability to raise deck to transport mode. Trust me it's what I had to do. Wasn't happy about it either.After what I had already spent on my package, forked out another 1600.00 for turf tires and rims, and that was a deal at 1600. Normally 2400.00.

It will be perfectly clear once you see the tractor in person, and read the mower manual.

Allen,
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Congrats on the tractor - looks great!
How do they ship something like that (I'm assuming you are not local)?
Goodworks is taking care of arranging the trucking.
I have done it several times myself for different equipment over the years , and used a online service called u-ship.
it’s no big deal to move equipment coast to coast just adds cost the larger it is and the further it has to travel.
Moving a 4 series half way across the country should run $1000-1200 as a ball park .
 

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Discussion Starter #28
No not the gauge wheels, unless someone put monster wide,4''-plus wheel spacers, when you raise the deck to full height, even with the curvature on the back side of deck, the back of the deck will rub on almost the full width of the tires limiting how high you can raise the deck. there are actually holes in the frame mounting brackets for the trailing arms that allow you to raise to transport height, put in a pin on each side, pinning the deck all the way up,allopwing you to then use your 3PT hitch with the mower on. Only way to get to that height? install turf tires for the smaller tire diameter, increasing ability to raise deck to transport mode. Trust me it's what I had to do. Wasn't happy about it either.After what I had already spent on my package, forked out another 1600.00 for turf tires and rims, and that was a deal at 1600. Normally 2400.00.

It will be perfectly clear once you see the tractor in person, and read the mower manual.

Allen,
We are not sure if it has manuals with it or not. GW hasn’t seen it yet either , it’s do in to him tomorrow or Saturday. He will know more next week . How is the cut height set on these. Is it in the cab or under the tractor. The Swiss cheese slide bar and pin setup on the 3039R always takes several tries and tweaking Of that pin to get it where I want it.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Unless the deck only comes off the ground about an inch(17.4's) it will have the 16.9's.
Allen.
The pics below the video in the original post of this thread is mine.
The 1 in the video is not.
It looks to me like the deck is raised and setting 4-6” off the ground and clearing the rear tires. not by a lot .
does deck float around and get into the tires?
You mentioned the 7 iron Being stout , that’s great . I do from time to time raise deck on the 3039 with Newer style drive over autocorrect 72d deck and I do exactly that with it, no small trees or anything but light brush no problem. Good to know I will still be able to do that.
 

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cc1999,
One heck of a nice tractor. (y)Congrats on the Unicorn 4720.
 

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Height of cut is controlled by the position of the 3PT hitch, Swiss cheese, and pin stop it is. Not my favorite way of lifting the deck. Here is the funny thing, the 4720 has what appears to be a lifting shaft going thru the main cast housing that you can rotate 360 degrees. I was told that because of the location and size of the trans filter, among some undefined reasons, Deere didn't engineer a hydraulic lift for it.

Having dealt with Deere for decades, most times when Deere says something isn't compatible it ends up being a simple tweak/re-fab/slight re-position/smaller filter to make something work. I have always wanted to see if i could at least control the deck with hyd lift and a depth stop, maybe even adapting a drive over deck, even auto connect. Just never had access to that kind of deck until now.

Why else would they put that size of a shaft thru the main case that has full rotation, and keyways cut in both ends of the shaft? Sure looks like a spot to attach lift arms.

I once saw a listing on Machine Finder for a DOM that was said to fit the 4x20 series tractors. Listing had no pics, called dealer to talk about it and he said, yep no problem it would fit/work on my 4720 cause it came off a 4 series. I asked for some pics, but never heard from him again. Listing was up for years, then disappeared. There is no listing in JD parts for it or anything from "whole goods" till that was transformed to something else.

Now that I have a Gen2 2032R with a 72" Auto Connect DOM. I soooo want to put both in the shop, and start sizing things up.

At the time Deere's concern was people trying to drive over deck with the added weight of having the loader on the tractor, which is a real concern. A cabbed 4720 may even be pushing it. I would like to find out, but not a the risk of thousands of dollars.

One day i might just say the H**L with it!! The load-n-go lifting brackets do add a good amount of structure, and weight transfer towards outer part of the deck where the deck can handle the most weight. Stay tuned, someday, maybe!!

Allen.
 

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Fancy machine ya got there.
 
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That deck is called a "7 Iron" for a reason, 7 gauge steel, built like a s**t brick house, and just as heavy to lift. My 72 on the 955 I had was 7 gauge steel and I did mow over stuff/trees that was pushing if not over 1 inch. It sounded quite bad, but never missed a beat for years. Use the technique you said and keep it well greased and clean. that is what I did, and never replaced anything but the belt, and that had a crack in it that went half thru it the day I bought it used, and lasted 2 yrs before it snapped in half.

May be the deck shell is that high in your pic, but the wheels aren't. I could be wrong. All I can tell you is mine wasn't, and it was infuriating that I couldn't get over even the slightest mounds, limbs, or rocks without the deck sounding either like it was comming thru the floorof the cab, or flying apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I do know what you mean about frustrations with the clearances on these bigger machines and MMMs. My 3039R has the larger R4s on it, gives the deck more ground clearance but it is really tight with my 3" wheel spacers and the right rear gauge wheel.
It clears and the brackets tend to hold it place well enough to keep it out of that tire. I have bolt sheer on one of the brackets that held it on and allowed it to move or flex around to much and it can get messy with those big tires and MMM.
I was in hopes since this machine was offered by Deere this way, that I would not be fighting it so much on this one.
I am exited to see how it all works.
Having a backup machine capable of same HP as my 4066 will allow it to also be able pull the 17ft batwing mower whenever the 4066 is tied up/setup for other chores. I think even if the belly mower is quite all that I hoped it would be, I still will have more versatilty then I do now with less tied up having 3039R, 4044R, and 4066R.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Anyone have an opinion which is the better engine.
The 4066's 2.1L 4cyl yanmar
or
The 4720's 2.4L 4cyl John deere.
This will be my only true deere engine machine.
Everything from my X7s to the Gators to the tractors today all have Yanmar engines in them .
So far never had any issues with any of them.

The other nice thing about this 2012 4720 is it is a pre-emission tractor, so no DPF regenning to mess with.
 

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My '05 4720 is the open station version of this unicorn; in fact, she's sitting in my front yard just now, as I'm taking a break between mowing fields.

The JD Equipment dealer talked me out of a MMM six years ago when I purchased this machine; I can't remember his rationale. I'm very happy with my RMRFM that I'm using currently.

Brian
 
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Discussion Starter #37
My '05 4720 is the open station version of this unicorn; in fact, she's sitting in my front yard just now, as I'm taking a break between mowing fields.

The JD Equipment dealer talked me out of a MMM six years ago when I purchased this machine; I can't remember his rationale. I'm very happy with my RMRFM that I'm using currently.

Brian
Nice.
I have some vertebra issues in my neck , watching equipment up close behind me can and is generally a real problem for me.
My 17ft bat wing finish mower sets far enough back being that it is a pull type and is wide enough I can see it.
A regular 3pt finish mower would never work for me. Belly mower is much easier on my neck.


I think the whole Unicorn thing is because it's a 4 series with MMM.
It was mostly thought to not even be an option to put a MMM on 4 series .

Apparently it was an option for the 4X20 family. Its not an option on the current 4R series.
The 4720 model in general was pretty popular model as I understand it, just with mid PTO and a MMM makes it a crazy rare configuration to have on any 4 series machine.
 
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I do know what you mean about frustrations with the clearances on these bigger machines and MMMs. My 3039R has the larger R4s on it, gives the deck more ground clearance but it is really tight with my 3" wheel spacers and the right rear gauge wheel.
It clears and the brackets tend to hold it place well enough to keep it out of that tire. I have bolt sheer on one of the brackets that held it on and allowed it to move or flex around to much and it can get messy with those big tires and MMM.
I was in hopes since this machine was offered by Deere this way, that I would not be fighting it so much on this one.
I am exited to see how it all works.
Having a backup machine capable of same HP as my 4066 will allow it to also be able pull the 17ft batwing mower whenever the 4066 is tied up/setup for other chores. I think even if the belly mower is quite all that I hoped it would be, I still will have more versatilty then I do now with less tied up having 3039R, 4044R, and 4066R.
That is a good point about using the 4720 on the batwing. Sometimes I wish I had another tractor to run my batwing, so I could leave the loader and backhoe on the 4720.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
No not the gauge wheels, unless someone put monster wide,4''-plus wheel spacers, when you raise the deck to full height, even with the curvature on the back side of deck, the back of the deck will rub on almost the full width of the tires limiting how high you can raise the deck. there are actually holes in the frame mounting brackets for the trailing arms that allow you to raise to transport height, put in a pin on each side, pinning the deck all the way up,allopwing you to then use your 3PT hitch with the mower on. Only way to get to that height? install turf tires for the smaller tire diameter, increasing ability to raise deck to transport mode. Trust me it's what I had to do. Wasn't happy about it either.After what I had already spent on my package, forked out another 1600.00 for turf tires and rims, and that was a deal at 1600. Normally 2400.00.

It will be perfectly clear once you see the tractor in person, and read the mower manual.

Allen,
i just noticed with the interior pic, now that you told me the deck height was tied to the 3pt .
I see the 3 pt lever is all the way back , and looks to still have a few inches of clearance on the back tires In some of the other pics.
This pined up positioned you mentioned, is that higher then the 3pt lever can take it? Just looking to learn what I can about it.
thanks again for all your helpful info.
 

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i just noticed with the interior pic, now that you told me the deck height was tied to the 3pt .
I see the 3 pt lever is all the way back , and looks to still have a few inches of clearance on the back tires In some of the other pics.
This pined up positioned you mentioned, is that higher then the 3pt lever can take it? Just looking to learn what I can about it.
thanks again for all your helpful info.
You're welcome. The transport height of the deck is adjusted by the left and right turnbuckles that hook to the back of the deck on each side and the lifting brackets that ride on the lower arms of the 3pt hitch. When you raise the 3pt all the way up, and the deck is adjusted right, the holes in the brackets where the deck pivot bars attach will line up allowing a pin to be put in each side to "lock" the mower in transport position. Here is the rub. Its quite tricky to adjust the deck to transport height to install pins, and keep correct "rake" to deck when lowered to mow. Unless my mower and brackets were installed wrong from the get go. There is no way to get the deck to transport height with R4's on the tractor. You can adjust it to get it so you can put the pins in, but the back of the deck will be rubbing real bad on the tread of the R4's. I mean it will sound like you are riding on rumble strips bad, if you adjust it the way it needs to be to get it to Full transport height and put the locking pins. The MMM's on the 4 series have to be used with turf tires, if you want good ground clearance, and be able to lock mower in transport mode.

It is a little tricky to understand the way this deck raises. When the deck is lifted off the ground, it actually comes up AND back. It's just the physics of the way it is mounted on the tractor, and one of the reasons, not many of these have the MMM. Almost everyone that bought a 4720 wanted R4's or AG's for loader/field work.

The first time you watch someone raise the deck, while you look at the deck it will be clear. Now if your ok with the ground clearance of your deck as is, and don't have a need to lock deck in transport it's no big deal. I often needed to raise and lower my 3pt while I had the deck on, so it was a problem, plus my deck needed to be raised to max height to clear things. Only way I could do it is with a set of turfs on.

Allen.
 
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