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I broke one of the cast metal holes that the Center Link of the 3 point hitch goes through. I am unable to find a part number and it looks like it is the entire top plate of the transmission under the seat. Looking for any and all recommendations. Thanks. 1025R tractor.
 

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kevinecourter, We have seen this before on GTT. As Fade2Blk stated, a picture would be great to have.
You may end up having to replace the whole case. Can it be welded?

 

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That thread is concerning a 2-series tractor. Although the same principle may apply to the OP's 1-series. Have to first establish if the top cover is aluminum or cast iron.

I sure do miss the older tractors as most of them had bolt-on top-link mounting brackets. So a repair is easy-peezy. A lot of other brands also use bolt-on top-link brackets but unfortunately JD keeps casting it as part of the top-cover. They do it this way clear up thru the 4-series.

On a lot of tractors if you break the top-link mount you simply bolt on a new bracket similar to what is shown below. Then you go have the old one welded and keep it as a spare. :)

 

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That thread is concerning a 2-series tractor. Although the same principle may apply to the OP's 1-series. Have to first establish if the top cover is aluminum or cast iron.

I sure do miss the older tractors as most of them had bolt-on top-link mounting brackets. So a repair is easy-peezy. A lot of other brands also use bolt-on top-link brackets but unfortunately JD keeps casting it as part of the top-cover. They do it this way clear up thru the 4-series.

On a lot of tractors if you break the top-link mount you simply bolt on a new bracket similar to what is shown below. Then you go have the old one welded and keep it as a spare. :)

Agreed. I thought that one was pertinent because the whole material situation was discussed there as well. Looking at what it does, are any of them aluminum?
 

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Agreed. I thought that one was pertinent because the whole material situation was discussed there as well. Looking at what it does, are any of them aluminum?
That's a good question. This is the first reported instance of a 1-series top-cover breaking that I can remember. Given that most of the transaxle housing is aluminum it wouldn't surprise me if they used an aluminum top cover. A quick check with a magnet should provide an answer.
 

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Can I venture a guess this was trying to improperly attach a post hole digger? Or otherwise trying to raise an implement that was jammed crooked at the top? This is not a common part to break and usually requires gross mishandling and operator error. It's also a pretty dangerous failure since it requires thousands of pounds of force to snap it off. I broke one of the two top link clevis tabs on mine while I was learning the improper way to attach a pole hole digger. I was very lucky the tool box was between me and the tab, because it would have shot through my chest when it snapped off. It was a very eye opening lesson in how dangerous these machines can be if you're not careful.

It is indeed cast iron, and it is indeed part of the rocker housing, and there is no way to replace just the clevis tab. You would need to disassemble and replace the entire rocker housing. Parts and labor on that would likely be numerous thousands of dollars.

If you still have the broken piece, and it still lines up pretty good where it broke off, it can be welded back on. Caveat on this though, welding cast iron is very tricky. You need to find a welder that is very good at his job, and has lots of experience welding cast iron. It will take an hour or two of very slow careful welding to get it right. Chances are, the welder will tell you he did the best he could possibly do, but will never be as good as new and is what it is.

I had mine welded back on. He said, and I quote, "how in the hell did you break that??" It cost me $150 for a welder to make a house call, instead of $3,000 in parts and labor to replace the rocker housing. Since then, I have used it with my post hole digger, back blade, and loaded heavy hitch. It has held up great. A post hole digger is probably the most stressful implement on the top link I know of, and it held. So I would suggest going this repair route first if you can.
 

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It is indeed cast iron, and it is indeed part of the rocker housing, and there is no way to replace just the clevis tab. You would need to disassemble and replace the entire rocker housing. Parts and labor on that would likely be numerous thousands of dollars.
Thank you for the clarification. Yes, the part is very expensive but as you mentioned the cost doesn't stop there. I'm sure there are various gaskets and bushings that would require replacement when the cover was swapped along with a boat load of labor. Like I said previous, I sure miss the bolt-on brackets. :)

Part Number:
LVA21894
Part Price: 945.71 USD
On Hand:
0 Check Other Stores
Description: Housing - HOUSING, R-SHAFT, ASSY, 55MM, R
 

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I had mine welded back on. He said, and I quote, "how in the hell did you break that??" It cost me $150 for a welder to make a house call, instead of $3,000 in parts and labor to replace the rocker housing. Since then, I have used it with my post hole digger, back blade, and loaded heavy hitch. It has held up great. A post hole digger is probably the most stressful implement on the top link I know of, and it held. So I would suggest going this repair route first if you can.
Judging by Tractor Time with Tim's videos, I would say a 3PH mounted stump grinder is a close second. The way that thing shook the entire tractor and actually slid it sideways couldn't help but put a lot of stress on the top-link and lower arms.
 

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Can I venture a guess this was trying to improperly attach a post hole digger? Or otherwise trying to raise an implement that was jammed crooked at the top? This is not a common part to break and usually requires gross mishandling and operator error. It's also a pretty dangerous failure since it requires thousands of pounds of force to snap it off. I broke one of the two top link clevis tabs on mine while I was learning the improper way to attach a pole hole digger. I was very lucky the tool box was between me and the tab, because it would have shot through my chest when it snapped off. It was a very eye opening lesson in how dangerous these machines can be if you're not careful.

It is indeed cast iron, and it is indeed part of the rocker housing, and there is no way to replace just the clevis tab. You would need to disassemble and replace the entire rocker housing. Parts and labor on that would likely be numerous thousands of dollars.

If you still have the broken piece, and it still lines up pretty good where it broke off, it can be welded back on. Caveat on this though, welding cast iron is very tricky. You need to find a welder that is very good at his job, and has lots of experience welding cast iron. It will take an hour or two of very slow careful welding to get it right. Chances are, the welder will tell you he did the best he could possibly do, but will never be as good as new and is what it is.

I had mine welded back on. He said, and I quote, "how in the hell did you break that??" It cost me $150 for a welder to make a house call, instead of $3,000 in parts and labor to replace the rocker housing. Since then, I have used it with my post hole digger, back blade, and loaded heavy hitch. It has held up great. A post hole digger is probably the most stressful implement on the top link I know of, and it held. So I would suggest going this repair route first if you can.



When I popped mine on the 2520, the dealer was willing to sell me the part at cost - over $1500.

I ended up getting a good local welder weld it back up. He added steel plates to each side to strengthen it. Has held up to lots of abuse so far! :good2:
 

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Can I venture a guess this was trying to improperly attach a post hole digger? Or otherwise trying to raise an implement that was jammed crooked at the top? This is not a common part to break and usually requires gross mishandling and operator error. It's also a pretty dangerous failure since it requires thousands of pounds of force to snap it off. I broke one of the two top link clevis tabs on mine while I was learning the improper way to attach a pole hole digger. I was very lucky the tool box was between me and the tab, because it would have shot through my chest when it snapped off. It was a very eye opening lesson in how dangerous these machines can be if you're not careful.

It is indeed cast iron, and it is indeed part of the rocker housing, and there is no way to replace just the clevis tab. You would need to disassemble and replace the entire rocker housing. Parts and labor on that would likely be numerous thousands of dollars.

If you still have the broken piece, and it still lines up pretty good where it broke off, it can be welded back on. Caveat on this though, welding cast iron is very tricky. You need to find a welder that is very good at his job, and has lots of experience welding cast iron. It will take an hour or two of very slow careful welding to get it right. Chances are, the welder will tell you he did the best he could possibly do, but will never be as good as new and is what it is.

I had mine welded back on. He said, and I quote, "how in the hell did you break that??" It cost me $150 for a welder to make a house call, instead of $3,000 in parts and labor to replace the rocker housing. Since then, I have used it with my post hole digger, back blade, and loaded heavy hitch. It has held up great. A post hole digger is probably the most stressful implement on the top link I know of, and it held. So I would suggest going this repair route first if you can.
Ok so now I am Curious, what is the incorrect way to attach a post hole digger?
 

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Probably doesn't happen often, but that is a stupid design to not make that replaceable if it is the part I am thinking. Are all sub compacts designed like this or just the JD?
 

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Having the top link pin partially out and raising the 3 point will break the connections since the pin will hit the rockshaft arms.
 

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Ok so now I am Curious, what is the incorrect way to attach a post hole digger?
Any way that doesn't work :) But attaching the lift arms first without the digger being properly supported is a good start for doing it wrong.

What actually transpired... I put the lift arms on first, which mean you have to keep raising and lowering little by little trying to line up the top pin. I got the top pin partially in through one side, and it got stuck. So I was trying to adjust the lift height to get the top pin moving again. Raising it too high put twisting pressure on it since it was only half in and crooked. In an instant it snapped the tab off. The snapped off piece shot upward and bounced off the bottom of the ROPS tool box. I was leaning over that toolbox at the time, and that tool box is what prevented the clevis tab from entering my chest.

Here's a picture of what broke and it welded back on.
 

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Any way that doesn't work :) But attaching the lift arms first without the digger being properly supported is a good start for doing it wrong.

What actually transpired... I put the lift arms on first, which mean you have to keep raising and lowering little by little trying to line up the top pin. I got the top pin partially in through one side, and it got stuck. So I was trying to adjust the lift height to get the top pin moving again. Raising it too high put twisting pressure on it since it was only half in and crooked. In an instant it snapped the tab off. The snapped off piece shot upward and bounced off the bottom of the ROPS tool box. I was leaning over that toolbox at the time, and that tool box is what prevented the clevis tab from entering my chest.

Here's a picture of what broke and it welded back on.
That's a good looking weld job. Glad you were able to salvage it.
 

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Probably doesn't happen often, but that is a stupid design to not make that replaceable if it is the part I am thinking. Are all sub compacts designed like this or just the JD?



I have yet to find a SCUT that isn't designed this way.


It's infuriating.
 

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2025R is a bolt on. It also extends upwards and bolts onto the ROPS.
That is only on the Gen-1 2025R (shown below).



The Gen-2 2025R is cast into the top cover like the 1-series.

 

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