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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I have a 1999 JD 345 FD611V that will not start. She has 750 hours and I have owned her 19 years. Over the past ten years the starter has been acting up by not engaging or it would disengage but it would start the tractor up until yesterday. So, I slapped a new starter and now it cranks great but still unable to start her up. I checked the plugs for spark and the right hand coil was not showing any spark, the left one has spark and is orange/white not bright blue/white. So, I slapped a coil on the left side and still she would not fire, but now I am getting spark on the left side, but it seems weak. Then I put a new set of plugs in, but I get the same results, no start. Next, I checked the TDM module and found the volts were constantly changing at the solenoid on the carburetor. So, I swapped in a new TDM module and now the solenoid gives a consistent number, but she still will not start. I can hear the solenoid engage when I put 12 volts directly to it. I put a new gas filter in and still no start. I have dumped gas into the carb and I get the same results she will not start or even pop. I pulled off the valve cover to check for movement and everything looks good there. The air filter looks great. I did an ohm test on the negative cable to the motor, and it showed zero resistance. I ran a compression test, and it came back at 180.

It cranks and cranks but will not start. The carb will eventually start to dump gas to the overflow hose if I crank it long enough. I did put a new carb on about 3 years ago.

My next idea it to look at the Denso 131800-0131 ignitor and replacing it. Any feedback or other ideas I would greatly appreciate as I am running out of ideas.
 

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The right hand coil was not showing spark, so you replaced the left one? Is the right hand coil still not showing spark?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am sorry for the confusion, after I replaced right coil it is now showing spark and the left coil is showing a orange/white spark not the bright blue/white spark. Both coils appear to have some form of a spark now.
 

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So you have spark, sounds like you have air, if it cranks and doesnt fire, your cylinders should smell strongly of fuel. If you crank it over for 10 seconds or so and pull the spark plugs, do the cylinders smell like fuel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So you have spark, sounds like you have air, if it cranks and doesnt fire, your cylinders should smell strongly of fuel. If you crank it over for 10 seconds or so and pull the spark plugs, do the cylinders smell like fuel?
Plugs are dry after I crank it for 10 seconds. Carb issues?
 

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Sounds like it's not drawing fuel, you can pull the main jet without pulling the carb, but you may just want to pull the whole thing and rebuild. Have you ever replaced the fuel lines?
 

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What is your battery voltage? I ask as I went round and round with someone on the same engine. He had an erratic spark and spent a ton of money on parts. In the end, it was a weak battery.

Also, to my knowledge, the igniter either works or doesn't. It's common for it to drop spark of one (usually the left) cylinder when failing but I haven't heard of it being the root cause of a weak spark.

I strongly suggest having the battery tested before proceeding
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sounds like it's not drawing fuel, you can pull the main jet without pulling the carb, but you may just want to pull the whole thing and rebuild. Have you ever replaced the fuel lines?
I will pull the carb next. No, I have not replaced the fuel lines. This sounds like a real buzz kill. Do the break down from time?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
What is your battery voltage? I ask as I went round and round with someone on the same engine. He had an erratic spark and spent a ton of money on parts. In the end, it was a weak battery.

Also, to my knowledge, the igniter either works or doesn't. It's common for it to drop spark of one (usually the left) cylinder when failing but I haven't heard of it being the root cause of a weak spark.

I strongly suggest having the battery tested before proceeding
I tested the battery and it has a reading of 12.3 volts resting and 11.3 during cranking. Is this acceptable?
 

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I tested the battery and it has a reading of 12.3 volts resting and 11.3 during cranking. Is this acceptable?
Seems like it should be but if memory serves me right, the other situation that I referred to was 12.3 sitting as well, I don't know what it was cranking.

I question that it's a carb issue if it doesn't fire all when you pour a little gas down the carburetor.

Most auto parts stores will load test your battery for free.

EDIT: I 100% support The Satch's suggestion to replace the fuel lines even if it turns out that you don't have a fuel issue today. I would also change the grommet on the fuel pick-up tube while you are at it.
 

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I will pull the carb next. No, I have not replaced the fuel lines. This sounds like a real buzz kill. Do the break down from time?
They do break down over time, and 20 years is longer than I would have expected them to last. They are fairly simple to replace, but you do need to pull the seat pan, it's not bad, just 4 bolts holding it on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I went to Autozone and had them test the battery, It tested ok. I also removed the carb and totally rebuilt it thanks to "Taryl Fixes All" YouTube video
. Taryl has a strange resemblance of my sister in law. Anyway, still getting the same results no start with each plug staying dry after cranking it for 10+ seconds.

After rebuilding the carb and reinstalling it, I opened the release valve on the bottom of the carb bowl and it did drain a steady flow of gas via the release tube. I did notice the fuel pump also discharging gas when I would crank on it for more them 10+ seconds. I double checked the carb solenoid and it still clicks with the key on and has an voltage of 12 volts. I also fed a test line from my gas can into the fuel pump, still no luck.

Any other ides?
 

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Have you tried starting fluid sprayed directly in the intake? It sounds like you have tried adding gas directly, but if it isn't firing maybe something more potent would allow it to fire; just to prove you have air and spark? Fuel, air and spark leads to combustion and you say you have tested the compression? If it won't fire, at all, and you are sure you have fuel, air and spark (and compression) I don't know what else it could be.

Edit: ... except timing
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Have you tried starting fluid sprayed directly in the intake? It sounds like you have tried adding gas directly, but if it isn't firing maybe something more potent would allow it to fire; just to prove you have air and spark? Fuel, air and spark leads to combustion and you say you have tested the compression? If it won't fire, at all, and you are sure you have fuel, air and spark (and compression) I don't know what else it could be.

Edit: ... except timing
I just went out an tried starting fluid and got the same results, no start. What establishes the timing on one of these?
 

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Have you tried starting fluid sprayed directly in the intake? It sounds like you have tried adding gas directly, but if it isn't firing maybe something more potent would allow it to fire; just to prove you have air and spark? Fuel, air and spark leads to combustion and you say you have tested the compression? If it won't fire, at all, and you are sure you have fuel, air and spark (and compression) I don't know what else it could be.

Edit: ... except timing
I was thinking the same thing. The OP previously stated his compression was/is good at 180. The lack of any signs of life with a little gas down the carb indicates a spark issue - whether lack of or timing.

I would try gas and or starting fluid - if it doesn't fire at all you need to revisit the ignition.

Just to revisit the sequence of events - it was running but hard to start before you replaced the starter? Or were you unable to start it before changing the starter?

If it was running before you changed the starter, I'd look for a wiring issue near the starter - everything connects in that area. It's possible a wire was pinched when you installed the new starter or perhaps a connection has come loose. There is always a possibility for miswiring. I would also disconnect the igniter and check for dirty/corroded connections and clean as needed.
 
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@denverguy , FD611V has a metal cam gear right? No need to replace with steel if I recall correctly?

It's gotta be spark if the fuel/air mixture is actually making it into the cylinders.
 

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@denverguy , FD611V has a metal cam gear right? No need to replace with steel if I recall correctly?
I believe you are correct, my understanding is that the FD611V always had a steel cam gear.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I was thinking the same thing. The OP previously stated his compression was/is good at 180. The lack of any signs of life with a little gas down the carb indicates a spark issue - whether lack of or timing.

I would try gas and or starting fluid - if it doesn't fire at all you need to revisit the ignition.

Just to revisit the sequence of events - it was running but hard to start before you replaced the starter? Or were you unable to start it before changing the starter?
If it was running before you changed the starter, I'd look for a wiring issue near the starter - everything connects in that area. It's possible a wire was pinched when you installed the new starter or perhaps a connection has come loose. There is always a possibility for miswiring. I would also disconnect the igniter and check for dirty/corroded connections and clean as needed.
It was not running prior to the install of the new starter, here are a couple of pictures of the starter region. Also, here is a couple of videos of the spark and the beast cranking away.


I reviewed the starter connections and everything looks OK. I also reviewed the ignition connectors, they seem OK.

785238
785240
 

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