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Discussion Starter #1
Newb here,
Great site !

Beware - You may wanna knock back a few before embarking on this endeavor :D



Ok , so I picked up a 2005 (Non Deere ) L111 hydro 42 today for a $100. It's not running, full bagger, really decent condition where it matters . Definitely worth fixing. Seeing that these models are pretty much Craftsman,.I feel somewhat confident tinkering with it.

Existing engine(Briggs)
I honestly don't even want to tinker with the briggs 20 hp.


However I do have , a Kohler cv730 25 pro v ...from a craftsman gt5000. The Kohler runs sweet. ELE PTO operates perfectly.

So after confusing myself with way too many facts, I'm just going to ask straight forward.

Kohler 25 hp cv730 is going to replace original Intek 20 hp.

Kohler has electronic PTO.
Briggs is manual PTO * dash lever?

Do I ,

just get a manual pulley set up for a kohler shaft ?

or ,

Do I get a electronic JD PTO toggle to run whats on the Kohler ele pto?

Or,

Do I run the Kohler with the ELE PTO unplugged....if that even works like that?

From what Ive read Kohler shaft is longer and 1/8 thicker than briggs? Does the length matter in this application?

Id be ok with the manual engagement, do I just get a new manual pulley for the Kohler? Seeing that the briggs isn't interchangeablewith Kohler


Ridiculous questions,...but I don't want to confuse myself more than I already am.

Ps, The less expensive way is better.

Any info is greatly appreciated:bigthumb:
 

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First off.. The L111 is a Deere mower. Made by Deere.
The shaft length is going to be a problem regarding belt alignment.
What's wrong with the Briggs engine?
Seems like a lot of work and expense for what you'll end up with.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
First off.. The L111 is a Deere mower. Made by Deere.
The shaft length is going to be a problem regarding belt alignment.
What's wrong with the Briggs engine?
Seems like a lot of work and expense for what you'll end up with.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk




I had the Kohler Command 25 pro on hand, and it runs well. I thought that I could just drop it in and wire it . I now realize how ridiculous the shaft and pulley nonsense is for every application.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So I tried to start Intek today:(

Popping out the carb badly,......didnt seem like the timing/broken key, so I took the valve covers off.

Left side looked and cycled normally, a little sloppy .

Right side was missing the exhaust pushrod (steel )
aluminum one was bent in place.

Pulled the heads- head gaskets looked fine-no visible breaches.
Pistons looked fine -carbon was even-both sides.
Valves looked good, although the right exhaust was stuck closed,....but it freed up easily enough.

Pistons cycled properly, and sounded quiet /normal.

Unfortunately now I have to pull the engine, and remove the pulley and sump cover to retrieve the pust rod ;( Hopefully it didnt destroy the crankcase mechanicals , but of course it had to be the steel rod??

Looks like I will need to reset the valve guides, and punch edges, hopefully they willl stay.

Once I inspect the crankcase , that will dictate ordering 4 new pushrods & complete gasket set.

Partslist:

Complete oem gasket set $ 55
2 steel rods $ 13
2 aluminum rods $ 13

Evidently , youtube is full of the EXACT same scenario. Mouse nest over the right side-= smoked pushrods ?

Whats funny about these motors, is that the repairs are fairly easy ,and quick......, even for a novice. However getting all the ridiculous covers and shrouds off consumes most of the time:(

Do these inteks lift right up and out?

Or do I need to remove the pulley off the shaft in order to lift out?

thanks guys
 

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First off.. The L111 is a Deere mower. Made by Deere.
The shaft length is going to be a problem regarding belt alignment.
What's wrong with the Briggs engine?
Seems like a lot of work and expense for what you'll end up with.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk

Back in 2005 my local dealer (not a BBS) had a brand new L111 sitting on the showroom floor. Ended up buying a limited edition/availability L108 (according to the owner) that just came in. The L108 wasn't even in the regular catalog. He printed me out the specks from the JD website. Only difference was a single cylinder vs a V-twin and $200 less. Also no cruise control.

After 9 years of way more use and abuse than JD ever intended. I thought that I finally had killed it. Turns out it was just a blown head gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Alrighty ,

The saga continues.


Removed the pulley,...came right off.
I removed engine. Funny how the hole in the frame is about 1/2 " smaller than the drive/deck pulley.

I inspected the sump area,......found the pushrod :yahoo:

Everything looked great actually, no damage, everything operated normally, no cracks, oil pump all good., and very clean to begin with.
Cleaned the gasket area , and got both halves ready for gaskets, and pushrods, camshaft lopes are perfect...like new :)

Ill order 4 rods and full gasket set , and in the meantime ....I ll reset the valve guides .

I hope this goes well, seems straight fwd. Id hate to drop $ 85 on parts for something Ive overlooked

Its nice to know that all the gaskets -seals and torque tolerances will be set correctly...by me. Peace of mind is nice when youre waiting for the ticking timebomb to state otherwise.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
While, the engine is apart, I decided to clean the shellac from the fuel tank,...and whatever those chunks were. Needless to say , the tank is spotless, and doesnt leak:bigthumb:
But you have to remove the entire dash console-steering pinion gear- and the entire body, just to get the fuel tank out. Who knew?:banghead: I also took the blades off too, theres an hour of my life that I won't ever get back . I seriously dont think they were ever taken off to be sharpened ? A big shout out to map gas and pb blaster , and a BF adjustable wrench. I powerwasheed the snot out of this thing. Stood her up on her tail like a Snapper to get the underside :eek:
I really need a big compressor and impact tools.

For a used $ 100 beater, other than some flakey paint.........the unit is very clean mechanically, and cosmetically under the body. Even the rolling chassis looks new.
Though I think i need to put a through bolt for the steering magiggy. Maybe some washers so I can still keep it floating,..but snug. I may even drain and refill the transaxle while Im at it this weekend? At least I can work on it now without getting dirty :p

Buying a non running mower is tricky, even though the motor was bad, the rest still looked decent. hopefully when the motors reinstalled ,...it operates as a unit.:nunu:

PS, Theres a lot of un neccessary nonsense on these mowers , purposely done just to pump up the service work hours/labor . If I had to have a shop go through this unit , Id be broke. I dont know how you guys have the dealers diagnose /repair the real JD tractors and farm equip.
 

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While, the engine is apart, I decided to clean the shellac from the fuel tank,...and whatever those chunks were. Needless to say , the tank is spotless, and doesnt leak:bigthumb:
But you have to remove the entire dash console-steering pinion gear- and the entire body, just to get the fuel tank out. Who knew?:banghead: I also took the blades off too, theres an hour of my life that I won't ever get back . I seriously dont think they were ever taken off to be sharpened ? A big shout out to map gas and pb blaster , and a BF adjustable wrench. I powerwasheed the snot out of this thing. Stood her up on her tail like a Snapper to get the underside :eek:
I really need a big compressor and impact tools.

For a used $ 100 beater, other than some flakey paint.........the unit is very clean mechanically, and cosmetically under the body. Even the rolling chassis looks new.
Though I think i need to put a through bolt for the steering magiggy. Maybe some washers so I can still keep it floating,..but snug. I may even drain and refill the transaxle while Im at it this weekend? At least I can work on it now without getting dirty :p

Buying a non running mower is tricky, even though the motor was bad, the rest still looked decent. hopefully when the motors reinstalled ,...it operates as a unit.:nunu:

PS, Theres a lot of un neccessary nonsense on these mowers , purposely done just to pump up the service work hours/labor . If I had to have a shop go through this unit , Id be broke. I dont know how you guys have the dealers diagnose /repair the real JD tractors and farm equip.
I know what you are saying. All that blade brake linkage/parts never made it back on the 42" deck. After replacing the spindles on my old L108. lol

I'd definitely change the transmission fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well,

Intek 20 hp parts are cleaned-prepped,...ready for install. Just got around to ordering parts. i did notice a chipped skirt on one of the pistons, at the very edge, but not scoring at all. Ahem ,..pushrod !

JD hydro fluid was removed and refilled,......didnt seem that filthy. possibility of low use,....or maybe service?

Change of course ,
The Kohler that was going to go into the JD, is now staying in the Craftsman GT5000 instead. I sorted out a few small issues, and the gt runs sweet. I'll just keep it I guess, perhaps a back up tractor? So at least i'll have a mower to use in the meantine , while the JD is being overhauled.

So while the GT is in use, the JD is getting a complete prep and paint (green and yellow) Probably 2 front tires + wheel bearings. Should be showroom looking at that point :) All in all, if the motor works properly after the overhaul, I should only have maybe $ 300 into this L111, total investment. So its definitely worth it, even for a 2005 mower. I just hope the Intek rebuilds well. then Ill know how to use preventive measures (valve adjustment) for longevity.

My theory is, Briggs rolled these motors off the assembly line with too large of a valve tolerance, to keep them safe . But the motors worn in too fast, and most ppl dont take their mower in for valve adjustments. Which means even sloppier valve movement, until the motor eats a pushrod,...or there is a window in the block from the connecting rod.
Im going 4 thousands of an inch, both exhaust and intake, like most small engines this size. It should break in naturally again,.......I'll just check the valve adjustment after the first or second mow. Should be painted / motor 100% by end of June. Too much pollen flying around now to paint.


*** The front end is a bit wonky. Steering to the left is great,.....but turning to the right is 1/3 of that. Everything looks fairly good ,as far as steering parts are concerned?
Am I missing something, maybe an adjustment? Suggestions?
 
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