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Discussion Starter #1
Can you guys help me with a tiller question?
which is a better tiller for the the 1025R and whats a quick hitch VS a Imatch???
Thanks

I just have a very small bit of virgin ground I want to till up and make a garden out of not a whole lot of use
 

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Think "facial tissue" Vs. Kleenex.... same as "quick hitch" Vs. Imatch. Imatch is John Deere's name for their quick hitch... Same as Kleenex is a brand name of tissue..

I have a SpeeCo brand quick hitch on my 1025r. I'm sure there are some minor differences between it and a J-D Imatch, other than just not being green, but the nearly $200 difference is why I went SpeeCo. I picked it up at a local farm store when it was on sale. It was right around $180. I can live with the black.

DSCF0049.JPG

I too am thinking tillers. Many here are happy with their King Kutters. Yes, you can buy a very nice 647 from J-D for $2500-$2600, or save about a $1000 and get the KK. The paint isn't as nice with the KK but the $$$ savings may make up for it. Most have said that their KKs are heavy and built like a tank, so that's a good thing...

Most here will say to go with a 48". Others have successfully run a 60". A lot depends on your soil. I'd bet that if you're breaking new ground you'd be best off with a 48".

Good Luck... and don't be afraid to ask lots of questions!
 

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Lots of good choices out there. I recently went through this and couldn’t find a bad review on any tiller really. I looked at them all and settled on a local Craigslist find a frontier rt1142 42” Italian made tiller. It was used for 1 hour and I got it for $1,200.

It does have a sheer pin and I would have preferred a clutch, but that isn’t a biggy I will keep spares on hand. I also read a lot about chain vs gear final drive and most folds saw in this size tiller chain is preferred because it will take the chattering better. Small fillers have less weight than their bigger brothers and they will chatter a bit, also the small tillers with gears some say the gears are undersized to handle the chatter. Having said that you don’t read about high failure rates in either design.

I spent about a month looking at Craigslist ever day multiple times or day.... tons of guys want retails or $100 off retail for a used rust piece of equipment. I am very happy with the quality, condition and price of my tiller, but like I said above everyone seems to love the tiller they have and it’s hard to find bad reviews on just about any brand.

I went with the 42” because I want to fill a few gardens for folks and would like to fit through as many gates as possible.

Jason


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Lots of choices for tillers, I have a County Line from TSC, very rugged and does a great job at 2-300 less than most. Mine is a 48”, some run a 60”, I think it will handle that but I believe it will do a better job with a 48”.


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I'm running a John Deere 655 tiller with JD iMatch. I mention this in case you are looking at used tillers and happen to find a JD 655. Don't overlook it. It works well with the 1025R and covers the tire tracks and then some. As far as breaking new ground....it does the job too.....just take shallow passes at first.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replys,,yes I think I'm leaning towards a JD647,,,I just like to stay all one brand,,its a little wierd,,but thats me
how wide is a 647?? 47 inches?? will that cover tire tracks on a 1025R
I pick mine up in about 2 weeks
 

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Can you guys help me with a tiller question?
which is a better tiller for the the 1025R and whats a quick hitch VS a Imatch???
Thanks

I just have a very small bit of virgin ground I want to till up and make a garden out of not a whole lot of use

Here is another idea if you can find one. I had this on my Yanmar grey market 155. Originally used in Japanese rice paddy. I did use it on my 1023 and it worked fine, even on virgin soil. It is a Yanmar RS1200. I recently sold it for a couple hundred dollars.
 

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Thanks for the replys,,yes I think I'm leaning towards a JD647,,,I just like to stay all one brand,,its a little wierd,,but thats me
how wide is a 647?? 47 inches?? will that cover tire tracks on a 1025R
I pick mine up in about 2 weeks
Nothing wrong with staying branded, and yes, a 647 will cover your tracks. :thumbup1gif:
 

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I bought a used JD 647 from my selling dealer. I think this thing was dropped in the dirt 1 time before I bought it. For $1500.00, I couldn't walk away. The thing works great. Connected to a JD I-Match hitch.
 

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jD 647 works for me

I've put over 35 hrs on my 647 behind my 1025R with iMatch and it works very well. On hard packed clay (no rocks!) I go East-West at 2-3" deep, then North-South another couple of inches deep before going full depth East-West. This is for planting grass, not a garden. Some may call it overkill, but with dry hard packed clay, my time is worth less than a broken implement.

Yes, the tire tracks are covered by the 647. The slip clutch should be checked by your dealership before you use it. Mine was new, but still was frozen, causing a problem at about 5 hours. Slip clutch friction discs aren't available from JD, but your dealer will sell you an entire PTO shaft with clutch for about $1000! Buy two sets of discs from AgriSupply.com for under $30 instead. Guys who know more than I do recommend backing off the clutch when storing for the winter - same as you should do with fishing reel drags:thumbup1gif:

I use the same tiller technique for the garden and sometimes add a deep pass North-South before using the Heavy Hitch bedder setup with 2 discs. After that, my wife plants the garden. :thumbup1gif:

Be sure to lube the PTO shaft joints prior to use. I grease mine every 5 hours. Best is when the joints are warm.
Another thing: tighten up the shackle pin that secures the tailgate chain. I put Loc-tite on mine after having it rattle free.

Have fun and wear earplugs.
 

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Thanks for the replys,,yes I think I'm leaning towards a JD647,,,I just like to stay all one brand,,its a little wierd,,but thats me
how wide is a 647?? 47 inches?? will that cover tire tracks on a 1025R
I pick mine up in about 2 weeks
You're going to like it. Just make sure it's iMatch or QH compatible and cut the PTO shaft to the correct length. Some like to use their FEL for weight on the front, I don't. I use suitcase weights on the front. When I cut virgin ground I make a pass one way and then across it. I do this at least 2 and sometimes 4 times. I do it till I get the ground to look and feel the way I like it. I always drop it all the way down and let the tiller do it's job. I say you're going to like the 647 even though mine is bigger, it's 5' wide. Mine is also not iMatch/QH compatible and it is heavy. I now wish I had gone with the 647 because of the weight. Although IMatch/QH compatible would relieve me having to fight with it. I bought mine back in 2003 and is still going strong. I've cut virgin ground and very rocky ground. No problems. Enjoy it and let it do it's job.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Why would i have to cut the PTO shaft if everything is JD? I hear alot of talk about cutting the PTO shaft like its not a big deal,,
wouldnt you have to cut it and re weld and balance like a drive shaft? that would be rather expensive?
 
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Get a reverse tiller

My landlord tilled my mother in law's garden and I could tell the difference. I didn't know they even made tillers with that turn backwards. So I looked around and pick one out at Woods that tills backwards and I can order it in John Deere green. They say you can make one pass with the reverse till and do what you can in three or four passes with a forward tiller. After seeing what the landlords did I'm sold. I'm waiting intill next year to buy.
 

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Why would i have to cut the PTO shaft if everything is JD? I hear alot of talk about cutting the PTO shaft like its not a big deal,,
wouldnt you have to cut it and re weld and balance like a drive shaft? that would be rather expensive?
Cutting the PTO shaft is no big deal. You just cut the same amount off of each end (at the middle). There are several videos on it.


As for the tiller, I've never heard ANYONE dissatisfied with their tiller choice. One of the best attachments you can buy for the 1-series.

County Line, King Kutter, Tartar, Deere, Land Pride, etc, you will be happy with any of them.

Tim
 

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County Line, King Kutter, Tartar, Deere, Land Pride, etc, you will be happy with any of them.
Tim
Agree. All good products. I have the 647, and it works great with my 1025. I have no problem recommending it, but I also know that the King Kutter/County Line brand is good as well, for less money, and the guys that have them seem to like them.

Like others have said, if you are breaking new ground or in particularly hard ground, just take shallower passes and take more of them. I have also used a middle buster almost like a plow to break new ground and bust up the soil, then followed up with the tiller.
 

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Why would i have to cut the PTO shaft if everything is JD? I hear alot of talk about cutting the PTO shaft like its not a big deal,,
wouldnt you have to cut it and re weld and balance like a drive shaft? that would be rather expensive?
Cutting the shaft is probably still needed because the tiller can fit different tractors, it is not made just for your machine. The is 100% normal for 3PH implements.

The shaft only turns 540 RPM, so no balancing is needed. This video explains it well:

 

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647 & PTO shaft

I never cut the shaft. I bought the tiller with the tractor and iMatch and it all fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Im with you on that,,,I dont feel I should have to "cut" anything with my 23K purchase
I want to hook up and go
 
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