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Discussion Starter #1
Now that I've gotten the pleasantries out of the way in the new member forum, I'm ready for my first post in the SCUT forum.

I'm contemplating the purchase of a new 1025r in the spring with a 60"mmm, h130(not sure on the bucket size yet), sb1154 blower, also considering a tlb if I can put together a package at the right price point at my local dealer.

I'd like some insight as to what options to opt for and attachments to consider.

Thanks everyone!


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Welcome to GTT and we will help you spend your money :gizmo:

Before anyone can answer your question(s) the GTT members need more information such as what your going to use it for, how big is your yard, the driveway etc. With details the information flow will start
 

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"GWN" = ??? Greater West Nevada?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Nevada......ya I wish. It was -47c with the wind chill here today. I live in Manitoba, Canada.

I have 5 acres. Approx 3 of which is grass, the rest is bush. I don't burn or harvest firewood. I have about a 400ft driveway and parking pad which gets blown in with snow pretty bad when it blows from the nw and my current single stage blower does a great job of compounding the problem by not throwing the snow any measurable distance. It's more of a gas powered shovel. I intend on building a decent size shop in the next 5 years. I should also mention I have a case 930 with loader and 3pth for the dirty grunt work I don't want to subject a new tractor to. It's only used in the summer months because it's to finicky and unreliable in the winter.


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Not sure of your budget but with -47 temps I would try to get a cab if I were you!

Other than that a few minor things like a block heater would be nice. I personally went with the TLB as I wrapped it into the financing.

I would love a new 2 series but they are over $30,000 USD equipped like a 1025R TLB...
 

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Block heater, extra lighting, and a steering wheel spinner!

Not sure of your budget but with -47 temps I would try to get a cab if I were you!

Other than that a few minor things like a block heater would be nice. I personally went with the TLB as I wrapped it into the financing.

I would love a new 2 series but they are over $30,000 USD equipped like a 1025R TLB...
That's why I went with a used 2320. Came out about 5k cheaper than a comparably equipped 1 series. :greentractorride:
 

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Are you expecting to use this unit for snow removal? How deep is your snow? I had a similar sized 2305 that it used for a couple of years and it kept getting stuck. If you only use the snow blower then thats probably not going to be a problem, but using a rear blade it was pretty much useless. Get some weights for the front, helps keep the front end down when using the bucket to maintain steering. Steering/cutting brakes are also handy to keep the unit going straight when slippery out and the front losses traction also good for tight turn around at the end of the run, not sure thats an option on on the 1025 though. Chains are very helpful as well for snow removal.

For snow removal you can get away with a bigger bucket but if you intend to do digging or move gravel around a smaller bucket is better. I find my fork attachment to be super handy and make sure you get a ballast box if you are getting a loader.

Think really hard about the BH attachment. Is quite pricey and not that big of a BH. Check the local prices to rent one vs buying. If you only use the BH occasionally then its not really worth it.

Also consider the price of the belly mower vs a used zero turn. Personally I've never been happy with the cut on my belly mower and its not very sturdy. I prefer to run a 60" zerot turn for the nice lawn areas and rear finish mower on the 3pt hitch for the rougher areas.

A quick hitch is a must as well, either the I-match or aftermarket.
 

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Things that I did when I purchased my tractor that I do not regret:

1. 53" bucket (vs. the 49" bucket). The 49" bucket is just barely wider than the wheels while the 53" bucket overlaps the tire marks by a few inches. I've had no issues digging with the 53" bucket. For just $50, it was an easy decision.

2. 54" front mounted snow blower. While the up front cost is more expensive, the convenience of driving forward the majority of your snow blowing seat time is certainly worth the cost. I don't enjoy driving backwards for any length of time and it hurts my neck and back. I actually want it to snow just so I get more seat time. 2a would be the remote spout kit to adjust the spout up/down from the seat.

3. Factory installed loader backhoe. The backhoe was a bit of a splurge and isn't for everyone, but my wife insisted (really, she did) and every time I have to dig I thank her for it. Dozens of stumps, concrete piers from old decks, trenching for electric to the garage... It's a specialized tool if you have a need, but then again, so is a tractor.

4. Ken's bolt on hooks. Having a set of hooks bolted to the bucket along with a length of chain is a godsend and greatly affects the usability of the bucket.

5. Artillian forks. I'd have to say that I have used the forks more than any other implement. Moving stuff is a given, but I have also used them to pry root balls from the ground and pry up decking and sub-floor.

6. Engine block heater. The 1025 starts a bit rough when it gets below 50f (10c). You can typically cycle the glow plugs a few times and it will start smooth but once you get below freezing, a block heater really helps with getting smooth starts. You're in Canada. You will NEED the block heater.

7. I-match quick hitch. It makes switching rear implements (box blade, ballast box, etc) painless.

Things I would have done differently:

1. Not purchase the 60" mid mount mower and instead go with a new dedicated lawn mower. Every time I want to mow I have to drop implements (loader and backhoe) to mow. It doesn't take long to do (just a couple minutes for each), but it becomes a chore to do it repeatedly every week. With the money saved by not buying the mower and independent lift ($3000 if I recall correctly), I could have bought a nice mower. The quality of cut is just "ok", but my 20 year old 42" Murray does a better job.

2. If you do get a mower, either go with the mechanical lift kit or the independent hydraulic lift kit. Don't bother with the hydraulic lift kit that requires you to swap a hose. I had my mower delivered crated and did the install myself to save a few hundred bucks. It was supposed to come with the mechanical kit, but it came with the hydraulic lift kit instead. I thought I would like it at first, but I quickly grew tired of having to swap the hose every time I wanted to move the mower while the loader was attached. I had limited storage at the time, so I would have to have everything attached to the tractor before I put it in the shed. If I wanted to mow, I would have to pull the tractor out, disconnect the loader hose, connect the mower hose, drop the mower, reconnect the loader hose, drop the loader in the shed, drop the backhoe, reconnect the mower hose, connect the mower, mow... and then do everything in reverse. It was truly a pain. I quickly decided to spend $300 and add the independent lift kit parts.

Things to know about before you buy a tractor:

1. The tractor will not fit under a standard (7' high) opened garage door with the ROPS up. The ROPS will hit the garage header. Eventually, you'll have to upgrade the garage.

2. You will forget that you put the ROPS down and invariably will smack your head on the lowered ROPS. Eventually, you'll have to upgrade the garage.

3. Every project you do, no matter how small, will cause you to ask the question "Can I accomplish the task using the tractor?".

4. You will find yourself lacking space for all the new implements you never realized you needed until you bought a tractor. Eventually, you'll have to upgrade the garage.

5. The first tractor works so well, but there are times I wished I had bigger. With a cab. Would the wife be ok with a hand me down?

:good2:
 

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Traction gave you good advice. I have been though it and agree with it 100%:bigthumb:
 

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I live in MB as well with an open 5 acres. Have owned the tractor for 3 yrs now and is great! Originally purchased with bucket,rear 1148 and box blade. Wish I upgraded to the next rear mower and box blade so itoutside of tires more. Purchased a 60dd last summer and it is great had to tweak the setup a bit. But help from this site made it so easy. Slips on and off the tractor flawlessly. I have no slope really and minimal objects to go around. Cut my time in half from a cub cadet with a 52" deck.and as for the snow drifts the blower runs right through them. I also purchased 2 edge extenders and I just push now more than blow. As far as a cab we'll you know what it's like and probably can handle it. I just get bundled with snowboard googles and don't feel a thing. Waste of money I think but depending on what you do with it I guess. I think they are made in Morden. Have it in a shelter with a block heater timer and batttery tender.




Nevada......ya I wish. It was -47c with the wind chill here today. I live in Manitoba, Canada.

I have 5 acres. Approx 3 of which is grass, the rest is bush. I don't burn or harvest firewood. I have about a 400ft driveway and parking pad which gets blown in with snow pretty bad when it blows from the nw and my current single stage blower does a great job of compounding the problem by not throwing the snow any measurable distance. It's more of a gas powered shovel. I intend on building a decent size shop in the next 5 years. I should also mention I have a case 930 with loader and 3pth for the dirty grunt work I don't want to subject a new tractor to. It's only used in the summer months because it's to finicky and unreliable in the winter.


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The advice I can contribute...for snow removal, I really like the 54" front mounted blower. Especially on a long driveway, it's so much easier than rear mounted to drive, especially at a quick pace when snow is light.
 

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IMO forget the 60" mmm, if you have any slopes in your yard or after talking a close friend and from my experience . Buy the 60" and drop the gauge wheels so they are about 1/8" or less off the ground .
Didn't see where you mentioned type tires , go for the R4 not turfs. , either tires will probably need chains (again if you have hills or slopes).
Check in to buying a Original Tractor Cab ,if so get the windshield and wiper option.
IMO buy the rear quick hitch as a 2nd implement when I got mine it was almost free ,,according to JD.:laugh:
For me using the snowblower and having a fel I have the rear weight box. Yes I can unload the weight when I don't need it fully loaded as when I use the fel. Instead I have a set of lifting weights, I put 120# on the bar drop it in the quick hitch. Found it is just about the right amount of weight for front plow or front blower.

and by a steering wheel spinner and block heater.

I've had no problems with my 1025r , over 2 yrs old and close to 275 hrs.

Wish you luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Excellent, this is exactly the type of insight I'm looking for. Keep em coming!

-I appreciate the comments about the front blower but, id like to keep the loader on for light snow cleanups. (I've been looking at some loader mount plows) Hydraulic chute control is definitely gonna happen just not sure if it's gonna be a frontier or a farm king(haven't compared the two yet)

-R4 tires- I have intentions of siping them for traction

-ballast box for sure

-I don't think a cab is in the budget and frankly it's one of those things I'd love to have for blowing snow but would just be in the way the rest of the time. Also height becomes an issue for now as it has to fit under a 7' door.

-I'm a bit concerned about the comments regarding the cut quality of the mmm. The literature I have from the dealer shows the 60d mmm with auto connect and also a 60" 7 iron mower. Other than the auto connect does the cut differ between the two?

-hydraulic mower lift will also happen cause I have some plans for 3pt attachments that will require independent control

-forks of some type will happen I just get the feeling the Deere ones aren't the best(artillian seems to be the fave)

-block heater is an absolute for sure, the battery tender is also a great idea and I'd also like to pursue the idea of some sort of hydraulic heater.

-I'm not sure on the quick hitch it seems everyone loves them I just haven't checked the cost.

-hydraulic options like the 3rd SCV and power beyond are on my list of things to research as I know there are some aftermarket options that might serve me better.


In the meantime thanks for the input, and keep it coming I appreciate it all.


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Ok, as far as the 60D Mid mower...it's not like it really works poorly, or suffers mechanical problems, it just has more of a tendency to scalp the ground on uneven terrain, in my opinion due to it not having a middle anti-scalp roller under the front. We cut 3 acres with ours and it works just fine. Also, it takes some care and attention to set them up correctly, they are very sensitive to the height adjustments and the tension on the front hanger, which need to be correct for an even cut. But once it's set up, it works fine.

Now as far as the auto-connect...opinions vary. The only difference with the true autoconnect is that the driveshaft locks in automatically. I opted for the standard manual connect driveshaft, which is much simpler, requires no setup or adjustment, and less prone to issues. There appears to be many people who love the autoconnect, I PERSONALLY am very glad I stuck with the manual driveshaft.

Good luck!
 

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Ok, as far as the 60D Mid mower...it's not like it really works poorly, or suffers mechanical problems, it just has more of a tendency to scalp the ground on uneven terrain, in my opinion due to it not having a middle anti-scalp roller under the front. We cut 3 acres with ours and it works just fine. Also, it takes some care and attention to set them up correctly, they are very sensitive to the height adjustments and the tension on the front hanger, which need to be correct for an even cut. But once it's set up, it works fine.

Now as far as the auto-connect...opinions vary. The only difference with the true autoconnect is that the driveshaft locks in automatically. I opted for the standard manual connect driveshaft, which is much simpler, requires no setup or adjustment, and less prone to issues. There appears to be many people who love the autoconnect, I PERSONALLY am very glad I stuck with the manual driveshaft.

Good luck!
From one manual driveshaft guy to another, well said
 
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Price out the cost of the MMM and hydraulic lift and 3rd SCV. Once you've got that figure go check pricing on used low hour zero turns. A zero turn can mow way faster and better than your tractor and then you don't have to fiddle with taking the deck on/off when you want to do other stuff. With the deck on, even fully lifted you have very little ground clearance so you'll be wanting to take it off for any work on rough ground.

For me, I find that if I let the grass get too long the front wheels of the tractor lay the grass down and it doesn't get cut. Later it stands back up and I have uncut strips of grass all over the place. The shallow deck of the MMM doesn't create enough vacuum to pull the laid over grass back up. I don't get this problem with my RFM. Its deck is substantially deeper and even with 4 wheels running over it the grass gets cut and no strips are left. If you cut your grass often and keep it short you most likely won't encounter this problem. I've also broken parts of the independent hydraulic lift. The design of it is such that the mower doesn't run on the wheels, they are just for anti-scapling. Properly set up the wheels should be just off the ground and the deck hangs from the tractor by a steel cable. I've broken a couple of the plastic wheels and the steel cable numerous times. However I have a 72"MMM and the kit was designed for the 60"MMM. The extra weight might be a contributing factor but every time I look at those cheesy plastic wheels I cringe and wonder WTH John Deere was thinking.
 
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I would have got the I Match with mine, it is on the radar for this spring, also looking into a 60" snow pusher with back drag(hoping for next winter), I have the Edge tamers on my 53" FEL now, they work great but you lose the back drag option without removing them first. Had also got the extension for the the edge tamers.

You cannot go wrong with any decision on a John Deere as far as I am concerned.

East coast :canada
 
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