[thatguy2]

So I bought a box blade from a member here back in January. I cant figure out how to make my driveway pretty with it. Ive read the instructions that came with it, and infact carry them with me while using it. Ive watched youtube videos. Does anybody have some tips or a youtube video they like to help learn proper box blade use? I was playing earlier in the driveway trying to learn and I must say its embarrassing.

 

[flyweight]

For grading rock, box blade shoes. → Buy a set, or make your own.

It'll change your life.

 

[rtgt]

Just like welding - there is a technique to it and it just takes time to learn it.

Don't try and "do it all" in one pass. Go a little at a time. It is like whittling

Level out the big bumps first. Back up to the bump and pull a little off of it each time in both directions until the bump is gone, then start making the longer passes.

Don't mess with the height. Set it to take a little bite and don't raise/lower it till you get to the end of that pass.

 

[ddinham]

I use a rock rake with wheels on my driveway. Much better than a box blade.

Sent from my Samsung Note using Tapatalk Pro

 

[ZoomerHD]

I've also found that tipping it back as far as your top link will allow and just "skimming" the rear blade backwards with the front blade just above the surface gives a nice smooth finish.

 

[Oscar Leroy]

I've also found that tipping it back as far as your top link will allow and just "skimming" the rear blade backwards with the front blade just above the surface gives a nice smooth finish.

This ^^^

Tipping forward with a shorter top link allows you to cut into the material, tipping back with a longer length smooths. I think it's important to figure out the tipping point, the top link length where it's "neutral". It doesn't take a lot of forward tip to really start cutting into the material. Experience is key, keep trying and don't think that you will get it all done in one pass. It's a process.

I usually start out with a couple of passes with it smoothing just to see where the high spots really are, then tip forward slightly to redistribute the high spots, then end up with a smooth pass or two. But I don't generally deal with gravel like that and I'm no expert, so experiment to find what works for you.

 

[ClydeLogan]

To me the pictures of your driveway look pretty darn good. Maybe it could use a bit of final smoothing and redistribution into some low spots. I would stop with the box blade at that point, and hook up a chain drag to go back over it to do the final touches to achieve "pretty."

 

[JDJake]

This ^^^

Tipping forward with a shorter top link allows you to cut into the material, tipping back with a longer length smooths. I think it's important to figure out the tipping point, the top link length where it's "neutral". It doesn't take a lot of forward tip to really start cutting into the material. Experience is key, keep trying and don't think that you will get it all done in one pass. It's a process.

I usually start out with a couple of passes with it smoothing just to see where the high spots really are, then tip forward slightly to redistribute the high spots, then end up with a smooth pass or two. But I don't generally deal with gravel like that and I'm no expert, so experiment to find what works for you.

It would actually be opposite, rolling the box blade back puts a sharper angle of attack with the bottom of the blade, it also lifts the front of the sides. Rolling the box blade forward lessens the angle of attack at the bottom of the blade, and raises the rear of the sides. Anyone who has operated a grader can tell you that to cut into material you roll the blade back. To mix material you run the blade vertical, and to spread material you lean the blade forward.

 

[PJR832]

Don't try and "do it all" in one pass.

This is the best advice given!! Box blades are not a one and done implement, they require a little finesse and quite a bit of patience.

Much better than a box blade.

You forgot to say "in my opinion"

I'll take my box blade every day of the week and twice on Sunday. I will add though, a hydraulic top link is a true game changer with a box blade.

 

[theduke]

Yep....Tip it to the rear( long top link).

Recently tried my New to me rake........New favorite road /trail fixer.

!2' land plane is the main road maintainer....you just drive and try not to snag any small trees or fence posts.

BB is basicly Retired and wore out but they are a workhorse when you got nothing else. Wore the side plates in to small triangles and reversed the blades after a couple bolts wore clean through.

Mine would plug with clay when working in the dirt ( in Between the blades) Would have to clean out the "wedge" area between blades to get the best results in gravel. If you got LOTS of rock.....I'd just build a pile with the bucket...then grab all you can haul with BB and GO. When trying to just dress what you have its a bit of a pita.

Get shoes on it or better yet get a landscape rake and never look reward again...just basicly drive & enjoy nice results.

 

[rtgt]

Anyone who has operated a grader

A box blade isn't a grader.

Most box blades have two blades on them. The front blade is curved forward with the cutting edge facing the tractor. The rear blade is curved rearward with the cutting edge facing away from the tractor.

Tilting the box blade back raises the front blade up and you are essentially back dragging with the rear blade.

Hear is a picture where you can see the rear edge.

 

[Rule292]

So I bought a box blade from a member here back in January. I cant figure out how to make my driveway pretty with it. Ive read the instructions that came with it, and infact carry them with me while using it. Ive watched youtube videos. Does anybody have some tips or a youtube video they like to help learn proper box blade use? I was playing earlier in the driveway trying to learn and I must say its embarrassing.
View attachment 794408 View attachment 794409

That looks pretty damm-n nice for a first time. You ought to have seen my first time on the backhoe. Hooboy. Oh well, my last time wasn't a whole lot better but practice makes perfect.

 

[rtgt]

That looks pretty damm-n nice for a first time.

I agree.

You ought to have seen my first time on the backhoe.

Let's leave backhoes out of this......

 

[wentonbrown]

The keep to starting out with a new implement is patience. My suggestion is start with it level. Front to back and side to side. Then get you a small pile or a high spot you know you need to cut down.

Take your time and just let the bb do its thing. After you see what it does with it being level then you can make small adjustments to either cut or just carry the material.

The drive doesnt look bad from what you have done so far. Once you get it close to where you want it use the fel to back drag the little bit you cant get with the bb.

As you get more time with it then you can get fancy and tilt it side to side or if you are out and wanting to cut swales or angle things you can do the same thing.

I have a bb and a rake and I use the rake for everything. Bb has been under covers dor years now. Basically the only reason I have it is for the rippers. I really dont need them either.

Just take your time. Practice makes perfect.

Good luck!
WB🚜🇺🇲

 

[ZoomerHD]

It would actually be opposite, rolling the box blade back puts a sharper angle of attack with the bottom of the blade, it also lifts the front of the sides. Rolling the box blade forward lessens the angle of attack at the bottom of the blade, and raises the rear of the sides. Anyone who has operated a grader can yell you that to cut into material you roll the blade back. To mix material you run the blade vertical, and to spread material you lean the blade forward.

Except a grader only has one blade. A BB has two, the one on the rear can be pulled forward ie "back bladed" if you tip the box backwards but keep the front blade just above the ground. You won't be able to see the rear blade from the seat but you can watch the one inside the box to keep it at the right height. Dropping the rockshaft all the way down while it's tipped either way will dig deeper, but raising it up allows it to skim with that back blade without doing any heavy cutting with the front one.

 

[ZoomerHD]

I'll take my box blade every day of the week and twice on Sunday. I will add though, a hydraulic top link is a true game changer with a box blade.

I'll second that one. Greatest addition I made to my bb was putting a hyd top link on. Easy as pie to tilt it just right without the constant on/off adjusting a manual link.👍

 

[rtgt]

Greatest addition I made to my bb was putting a hyd top link on.

That is cheating!

That is until I get one (hyd top link), then it is all good.

 

[ironpony]

Now you know why he sold it................

 

[JDJake]

Usually the cutting edge in a box blade is lower than the one on the rear, there are also ones that the rear cutting edge can be flipped up. Just pointing out that be leaning it forward it would spread material more then cutting into it.

 

[ddinham]

This is the best advice given!! Box blades are not a one and done implement, they require a little finesse and quite a bit of patience.

You forgot to say "in my opinion"

I'll take my box blade every day of the week and twice on Sunday. I will add though, a hydraulic top link is a true game changer with a box blade.

Do you have a rock rake like this one?

Dave