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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a problem getting my Ballast Box off my match. I have released the locks and lowered the ballast box but the imatch will not drop below the level of the bushings, so I can not move forward and release the Box? What am I doing wrong?
 

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Are the spring loaded locks physically disengaging?
 

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Have you opened up the Rate of Drop knob in front of the seat between your legs? If the knob is closed it sometimes will not allow the weight of the iMatch to lower the arms. If you do open it up, remember to close it a bit before picking up the ballast box so it doesn't slam to the ground.
 
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You could be hung on the top hook. I had to buy the extended top hook to fix that problem.

Extended iMatch™ Hook - BoltOnHooks LLC

For now you probably have to drop the 3 point all the way down and either adjust angle of top link or take a hammer and persuade everything to separate.
 

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That too. ^

I've had mine to bind at the top link before and had to work the top link cylinder to get it to release.
 

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Is it hanging up on the top hook? If so sometimes nudging the tractor forward and back a little can get it to drop. Ken's Bolt On Hooks sells an extended top hook for the imatch that will help with that.
 
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I am seeing a theme here lol
 
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Is it hanging up on the top hook? If so sometimes nudging the tractor forward and back a little can get it to drop. Ken's Bolt On Hooks sells an extended top hook for the imatch that will help with that.
Before replacing the top hook, try loosening the two bolts that holds it in place. There is a bit of slop in the holes. The factory is notorious for tightening it too close to the hitch.
 

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You could be hung on the top hook. I had to buy the extended top hook to fix that problem.

Extended iMatch™ Hook - BoltOnHooks LLC

For now you probably have to drop the 3 point all the way down and either adjust angle of top link or take a hammer and persuade everything to separate.
This
Lower the box until it’s just touching the ground and reach back and adjust the top link until it feels loose. The angle of the dangle will get it off. Sometimes you gotta pick it up and wack it down. Nudging the forward reverse levers sometimes helps but mostly it’s the top link too tight on it
 

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Could you put some 2x4's down and drop the ballast box on them so it sits higher? Then you can make adjustments.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have a problem getting my Ballast Box off my match. I have released the locks and lowered the ballast box but the imatch will not drop below the level of the bushings, so I can not move forward and release the Box? What am I doing wrong?
Thanks all that responded, I was being to gentle and just gave the arms a kick and they released so that I could pull away from the box!!!!! Thanks again.
 

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Another implement beaten into submission. :ROFLMAO:
 

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You may have to adjust the top link a turn or two if the top hook is binding. You should not need our extended hook with the ballast box.
 

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You may have to adjust the top link a turn or two if the top hook is binding. You should not need our extended hook with the ballast box.
As I recall, when I tried to adjust mine when I was in this situation, I found that the top link wouldn't adjust beyond a certain point because I had somehow bent it with the ROPS. Inexpensive Tractor Supply replacement, but I'm a little more careful now.
 

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Another reason the hydraulic top link is SWEET.
There's no question a hydraulic top-link can be useful but it's certainly not required for easy quick hitch operation. I had one on my tractor for a while. I have to remove it each winter so I can use my rear SCV for the hydraulic angle rear blade.

I finally removed it and just went back to the standard top-link. When properly adjusted I can attach/detach the rear blade, ballast box, landscape rake, sub soiler and trailer mover from the quick hitch without having to readjust anything.
 

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There's no question a hydraulic top-link can be useful but it's certainly not required for easy quick hitch operation. I had one on my tractor for a while. I have to remove it each winter so I can use my rear SCV for the hydraulic angle rear blade.

I finally removed it and just went back to the standard top-link. When properly adjusted I can attach/detach the rear blade, ballast box, landscape rake, sub soiler and trailer mover from the quick hitch without having to readjust anything.
In my case im always moving them around my yard and it’s not always flat and I’m not that patient so I drop them wherever they’re outta the way so I wind up adjusting the top link because the grade is a little off. I had put down a nice flat area for them I planned on putting a simple lean to over them but it wound up a wood storage spot and they gotta wait till I ge rid of the wood.
 
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