There's a set of iMatch bushing required for most, if not all implements to increase the standard pin sizes. Any JD dealer will have them and I find them at a lot of hardware stores as well.
Imatch and Landpride GS1560 question
I just got a landpride GS1560 grading scraper last night, tried hooking it up to the 2520 with the imatch hitch and the lower two pins look too small. The top pin is too small as well, but I was able to pick it up by another lower pin in the top link (not sure if it is intended to be used or not) Is there a bushing kit that I can get to go on the grader pins that will take the slop out of the hitch?
I was able to pull it around a little bit in the drive, but would like to get rid of the slop the right way.
I was able to pull it around a little bit in the drive, but would like to get rid of the slop the right way.
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Here is a post that covers the subject pretty well: http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?2195-Quick-hitch
In the second reply I linked a place that sells them cheap. There are other threads as well if you search "imatch", "bushings" and "adapters" as well.
In the second reply I linked a place that sells them cheap. There are other threads as well if you search "imatch", "bushings" and "adapters" as well.
Thanks for the tips. I should have ordered them from that link, great price but I got a set coming from the dealer. If I buy something else that needs them, I'll definately order from that site.
I drove it down the road last night with the grader all the way up, got to the end and noticed my hitch arms were hitting the back tires. Those adjustment turnbuckles are a joke on the 2520. And it looks like they are a attached to the aluminum axle housing in a chincy manner, doesnt look like they will hold much, especially if one were to try and turn with the implement in the ground. Affraid I'm going to bust that casting. Just looks like a poor design to me.
I drove it down the road last night with the grader all the way up, got to the end and noticed my hitch arms were hitting the back tires. Those adjustment turnbuckles are a joke on the 2520. And it looks like they are a attached to the aluminum axle housing in a chincy manner, doesnt look like they will hold much, especially if one were to try and turn with the implement in the ground. Affraid I'm going to bust that casting. Just looks like a poor design to me.
I had the same concern with my new 2520. I snugged up the turnbuckles which helped a lot. Reversing the rear tires was the best fix though ..... and it looks pretty cool as well. You might want to consider trying that if you have not already.
Agreed, if you have not reversed your tires, then you should. That extra inch on each side really makes a difference in stability and you get more clearance for the 3PH. If you have a directional tires like the R4 then you want to move the left to the right and the right to left without turning the tire (i.e. remove it, roll it backwards and then roll it to the other side of the tractor without flipping it). The only down side is the valve stems will be inboard.I had the same concern with my new 2520. I snugged up the turnbuckles which helped a lot. Reversing the rear tires was the best fix though ..... and it looks pretty cool as well. You might want to consider trying that if you have not already.
Even if the check chains where attached to a 1" thick steel beam, turning with any implement in the ground is not a good idea!especially if one were to try and turn with the implement in the ground.
:laugh::laugh::laugh:
That's a good one Jeffery. :thumbup1gif:
That's a good one Jeffery. :thumbup1gif:
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