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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1025R with an imatch hitch. The one implement I bought from the dealer with the tractor has a top link bushing that just glides smoothly into the upper hook on my imatch hitch with no free play at all. My other implements I have converted myself to imatch using either the JD official kit, or the kit from Tractor Supply. The kits come with two upper bushings - a cat 1 to cat 2, and a cat 2 to cat 3. I assume that these bushings are both to be used, one inside the other, making the upper a cat 3 pin size.

The problem is that none of these cat 2 to cat 3 bushings fit easily into the imatch hook like the one the dealer installed. They are so tight that I have to use a sledge to hammer them down until they bottom out so the lower latches will engage. And I usually have to drive them back out to remove the implement. I've tried each bushing just by itself too, and they all seem jut slightly too big to fit the imatch hitch.

So, I've removed the cat 3 bushings and am just using the single cat 1 to cat 2 bushings. They are a sloppy fit, but sure make connecting and removing a lot easier. Is there a reason NOT to do this? Is there perhaps a slight variation in diameter of bushings from different sources, and was I unlucky enough to buy 5 sets (2 JD and 3 TSC sets) that are just too big? :dunno: All the implements seem to work fine just using a cat 2 bushing in the upper position.
 
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The bushings for the top link are different (smaller) than the bushings for the lift arms. Are you sure you're using cat 1-2 and cat 2-3 top link bushings and NOT the larger lift arm bushings?
 

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The bushings for the top link are different (smaller) than the bushings for the lift arms. Are you sure you're using cat 1-2 and cat 2-3 top link bushings and NOT the larger lift arm bushings?

+1. Yup! I ran into this exact same problem with Tractor Supply bushings too. Turns out, I was trying to use the lift arm bushings for the toplink. It no worky. :laugh:
 

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You can add me to the list. For me it was a 2 week wait until I got back to Tractor Supply for the correct bushings. In the meantime I found where someone here on the forum listed the proper TSC part numbers.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
The bushings for the top link are different (smaller) than the bushings for the lift arms. Are you sure you're using cat 1-2 and cat 2-3 top link bushings and NOT the larger lift arm bushings?
Here's a photo of the JD imatch kit.

bushings2.jpg

If I'm installing these correctly, the two metal things that look a bit like metal mushrooms are to slip over the cat 1 lift arm pins on the sides of my implement, and are held in place by the roll pins that are hammered into the holes that line up best. They are installed with the mushroom head ends facing outboards. The other two round cylindrical things (bushings) slip one inside the other over the cat 1 pin in the top link position.

Here is how I have them installed on my ballast box.

ballast1.jpg ballast3.jpg

Have I done this wrong?
 
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Here's a photo of the JD imatch kit.

View attachment 212873

If I'm installing these correctly, the two metal things that look a bit like metal mushrooms are to slip over the cat 1 lift arm pins on the sides of my implement, and are held in place by the roll pins that are hammered into the holes that line up best. They are installed with the mushroom head ends facing outboards. The other two round cylindrical things (bushings) slip one inside the other over the cat 1 pin in the top link position.

Here is how I have them installed on my ballast box.

View attachment 212881 View attachment 212889

Have I done this wrong?

Looks perfect to me!

Can you measure the outside diameter of the larger toplink bushing you have? It should be 1 1/4" in diameter.

If it is 1 7/16" then you have a lift arm bushing instead of a toplink bushing.
 

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Here's a photo of the JD imatch kit.

View attachment 212873

If I'm installing these correctly, the two metal things that look a bit like metal mushrooms are to slip over the cat 1 lift arm pins on the sides of my implement, and are held in place by the roll pins that are hammered into the holes that line up best. They are installed with the mushroom head ends facing outboards. The other two round cylindrical things (bushings) slip one inside the other over the cat 1 pin in the top link position.

Here is how I have them installed on my ballast box.

View attachment 212881 View attachment 212889

Have I done this wrong?
You are on the right track. The large mushroom shaped adapters are indeed attached by roll pins to the lift arms. Also, the smaller top link bushing does slip into the larger bushing. Now, if you've used the correct top link bushings, you've increased the diameter of the top link to 1 1/4" to neatly fit into your quick hitch hook.
Here's the catch. You can also buy cat 1- 2 and cat 2- 3 sleeve bushings for the lower lift arms instead of using the mushroom shaped adapters. If you happened to mistakenly use lower arm sleeve adapters in your top link, the diameter is now 1 7/16". That's the same diameter of the mushroom shaped adapters and will make an impossibly tight fit in the quick hitch hook.

Here are the TSC links for the correct top link sleeve adapters:
CountyLine Category 3 to 2 Top Link Bushing - For Life Out Here
CountyLine Category 2 to 1 Top Link Bushing - For Life Out Here

And here are the TSC links for those lower lift arm sleeve adapters.
CountyLine Category 3 to 2 Lift Arm Bushing - For Life Out Here
CountyLine Category 2 to 1 Lift Arm Bushing - For Life Out Here

Great looking shop, by the way!
 
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I believe I'm on track to answer part of my own question. I just measured the outside diameter of all the bushings I have using digital calipers. Most are 1.245 inches. Some are 1.268 inches. These are the ones that are a tight fit when inserted in the hook by themselves. Since I'm now using only the cat 1-2 bushing for the top link, I've lost track of which cat 2 to 3 bushings came with which kits.

I believe now that the tight fit of the upper bushings is related to the inaccurate placement by the manufacturers of the two lower Cat 1 pins on my implements. If the two lower pins are not perfectly lined up with each other, the iMatch hitch, being a single fixed plane, has no wiggle room to adjust, so the upper bushing, even though it's the correct diameter, is slightly twisted in the hook as the implement is picked up. Or, the two holes drilled for the top link pins might be angled a bit off true as well

Thinking back, my Frontier box blade definitely had lower pin mounting hole misalignment, and it's by far the worse fitting of the implements I have. And when I started to bolt it together, it was obvious that the two holes for the lift arm pins were not lined up correctly. I had to resort to heavy hammering to get the thing together.

But, back to my original question. Can I just continue to use the cat 1 to 2 bushings for the upper iMatch mount? Or are there certain implements this is not a good idea with? Right now they are a box blade, a disc harrow, a subsoiler, a middle buster, a receiver mount, and a ballast box. Thanks.
 

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But, back to my original question. Can I just continue to use the cat 1 to 2 bushings for the upper iMatch mount? Or are there certain implements this is not a good idea with? Right now they are a box blade, a disc harrow, a subsoiler, a middle buster, a receiver mount, and a ballast box. Thanks.
Yeah, you can just use the Cat 2 bushings. You'll have a little slop but it won't hurt anything.
 

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I don't know if you have the older or newer style iMatch hitch - the newer version has the adjustable top hook.

With the adjustable top hook, try loosening the bolts and try it. When I first got my Heavy Hitch it wouldn't seat in the top hook properly. Found out (with the help here and from Heavy Hitch) that if you loosen the hook there is a little bit of forward/reverse play. I loosed the hook, pulled it toward the rear, and retighted - solved my hook up problem.

I realize your issue is having the correct size bushings but I thought I would throw this out there for anyone else who may be having problems hooking up.

I have since replaced the bolts with pins. One reason is it makes a quick change in the hook position possible. When I adapted my old Bush Hog I needed to have the hook in the high position. Also when using pins instead of bolts it lets the hook move forward and aft just a bit which helps with clearance issues.

Hook in factory position:

P1330165.jpg

After loosening, pulling it back, and re-tightening:

P1330168.jpg

And now with pins (I still need to find shorter ones of the appropriate diameter):

DSCF0174.jpg
 
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