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Discussion Starter #1
I have an iMatch that is a little too clingy and refuses to let go some times. After releasing the locks and dropping the 3PH, it just refuses to let go of the attachment. Some how it is getting wedged on and requires me to get off the tractor and climb up onto the iMatch to break it free. This happens probably 4 out of 5 times. Seems somewhat counter productive to the philosophy of the iMatch if I need to get off the tractor to remove the implement.

Anyone else experience this and/or have any recommendations?
 

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I don't have an iMatch hitch but with my Landpride one it does get hung up every so often. I just applied a bit of Fluid Film or another similar oil and that seems to fix the problem for a while.

Also this might be a bit crazy but sometimes the underside of the locking arms (that keep the pins locked in) get a bit rough from dirt and other debris so I smooth it out a bit with some sandpaper depending how bad it is.
 

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When that happens to me, its generally the top link is either a hair to long or short, a minute adjustment will solve it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
When that happens to me, its generally the top link is either a hair to long or short, a minute adjustment will solve it.
That actually makes a lot of sense, wish I'd thought of it. I'll give it a whirl. Thanks!
 

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:munch:
 

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When that happens I rock the tractor a little back and forth and it usually lets go, but not always.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk 2
 

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Sorry to dredge up an old thread....but having this exact issue with my iMatch.

Any way to know which top link direction is the ticket? Or just trial and error until it's behaving itself?
 

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Sorry to dredge up an old thread....but having this exact issue with my iMatch.

Any way to know which top link direction is the ticket? Or just trial and error until it's behaving itself?
First thing to do is loosen the bolts holding the top hook. The hook will move forward and back when loose just a tiny bit but will make a difference. Loosen the bolts - pull the hook rearward - and retighten. That did the trick for me when I first got mine.

And be forewarned - those bolts are tight from the factory. Many of us put pins in place of the bolts - makes for quick changes to the top hook position.
 

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That was my next question.
Does the BOH replacement hook solve this? Or at least help?
Yes, IF the attachment is binding on the two uprights that hold the hook and or the bolt heads.
Do as Stan suggested above though, that little bit you again by loosening the bolts may work for you.

If the top link is to short or to long as suggested (7 years ago LOL...I commend you for searching (y) ) then you get the binding too, we can't tell you which it is from here.
 

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I had the same problem with certain 3ph implements refusing to drop. To the point I had to persuade them with a dead blow hammer, which I hated doing.

Ken's hook with the pins instead of bolts solved 95% of the binding issues. I did have one unique problem where the way the implement was made, it could get wedged up under the improved part of the Ken's hook. I solved the problem by selling that implement................Everything else works much better with the Ken's center hook.

And it's important to point out that this is an ACTUAL Deere IMatch and not one of the many after market or imported units. Ken now has a revised hook for some of the import units as well.

Having the pins in the hook instead of the bolts helps a bunch by allowing the hook to move enough to aid in both hooking and disconnecting from the 3ph implements. Also, when you sit down the 3ph implement when using the hook and pins instead of bolts, you can make the small adjustment to your top link to allow the unit to unbind and unhook easier. When the pins can move in the hook, it will drop off the Imatch every time.

Easy to install and improves a product which when working correctly, sure makes hooking up the 3ph implements far easier. Get you one..........Order the pins and clips at the same time.....

 

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