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Im new to this tractor life and I love it. But of course I know nothing, as Sgt Shultz would say. One of the guys at church was saying he is adding ATF to his diesel since his injector pump siezed. Its what his mechanic has always used. So I started asking around. Believe it or not the JD dealer actually said he uses Marvel Mystery oil, others use outboard motor oil, bio diesel. So I will ask the community. Am I being overly concerned. I probably use about 50 gallons a year. Also I was thinking of buying a 55 gallon drum at the beginning of winter. that way I would have it for my generator if needed and if not use it in the tractor next season. I realize moisture is a concern. All inputs appreciated. If it makes a difference i'm in middle TN.
 

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The only additive I use is an anti gel additive in the winter, and even then I had my diesel gel up in my filter a couple of years ago. New diesels are designed to run on low sulfur fuel and in my opinion and additive is more likely to cause problems then help.

If you really want to add something its been a few years ago but I saw a study that showed what additives added the most lubrication properties to diesel, and bio was at the top of the list. Maybe if you had a much older diesel engine you might consider it more important. Maybe someone will post a link to that study.
 

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Im new to this tractor life and I love it. But of course I know nothing, as Sgt Shultz would say. One of the guys at church was saying he is adding ATF to his diesel since his injector pump siezed. Its what his mechanic has always used. So I started asking around. Believe it or not the JD dealer actually said he uses Marvel Mystery oil, others use outboard motor oil, bio diesel. So I will ask the community. Am I being overly concerned. I probably use about 50 gallons a year. Also I was thinking of buying a 55 gallon drum at the beginning of winter. that way I would have it for my generator if needed and if not use it in the tractor next season. I realize moisture is a concern. All inputs appreciated. If it makes a difference i'm in middle TN.
Why not simply use the diesel Fuel Protect product that JD sells (TY26787)? Pour some in and fa-git-about-it. It only requires ~2 oz. per 5-gallon container so the 16 oz. $6.63 bottle goes a long way. I use the winter formula all year round.

 

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Why not simply use the diesel Fuel Protect product that JD sells (TY26787)? Pour some in and fa-git-about-it. It only requires ~2 oz. per 5-gallon container so the 16 oz. $6.63 bottle goes a long way. I use the winter formula all year round.

I use JD winter also. Year around, in every five gallon jug.
 
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Funny this came up..

My cardlock fuel company just sent a letter saying some "new" diesel will be avl @ the private pumps.

Yea Oregon is NO Self Serve......Gotta have a business to get a card for the private fuel stations...Better than waiting at the local ones for horrible service and going inside to pay......

0.30$ more per gallon but...prolongs engine life and is more friendly to to planet..bla ..bla ...bla.


I just wish they'd put in a pump for off road diesel instead......:banghead:
 

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Funny this came up..

My cardlock fuel company just sent a letter saying some "new" diesel will be avl @ the private pumps.

Yea Oregon is NO Self Serve......Gotta have a business to get a card for the private fuel stations...Better than waiting at the local ones for horrible service and going inside to pay......

0.30$ more per gallon but...prolongs engine life and is more friendly to to planet..bla ..bla ...bla.


I just wish they'd put in a pump for off road diesel instead......:banghead:
Just make sure it isn't some bio-diesel blend. You don't want that stuff.
 
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Lots of guys use nothing and the tractors run just fine for a long, long time.
I prefer to use Stanadyne Performance, as thats what I run in the VW, and its pretty highly regarded. Plus I never have to worry about temperatures. Helps with lubricity, and keeps fuel from "gelling".

I would advise NOT using ATF or 2 Stroke oil, people do it all the time, but that doesnt make it good. They are not designed to do anything to help pumps or injection systems.
I found out some time back that adding it to diesel can actually do more harm than good. There was (probably still is) a test out there regarding different additives to diesel fuel with regard to lubricity, cetane, etc, along with a few other tests thrown in too. If I run across it, Ill post a link.
 

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Just make sure it isn't some bio-diesel blend. You don't want that stuff.

Well thanks...I just went dumpster diving for the letter.

It reads "The Ultra Clean" Pat Pending blend of Renewable Diesel & Biodiesel
( 20% renewable ,20% Bio D , 60% standard diesel)

bla bla ....Increased lubricity and more complete combustion of bio diesel

YUK....my guess is this is no good huh?

Most stations only have the bio D ...I think its S 90 or whatever. 10% bio.

A few stations give you a choice....Time of year used to be a factor on the good gas ..Its all but gone now.

Just a couple stations in a 30 mi radius with Non Ethanol reg gas....$5 + per gallon
 

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Not a problem for us

Just make sure it isn't some bio-diesel blend. You don't want that stuff.
We've been running bio-diesel blend for . . . at least 10 years. The only issue we've had was when we first started using it. It cleaned the fuel systems and the accumulation plugged the filters on one tractor. As I recall we started with 5% and now run 15%. We've literally not had a fuel, injector or pump problem running it.

My brother works with a guy who jumps into thing in a big way. He started making his own bio-diesel and ran his Mercedes on 100% bio for several years until he sold the car. So, my direct experience and second hand experience were both good with bio-diesel. Admittedly we seldom get below 0 F here and then it's usually only for a few hours so users in colder climates may have another experience.

Treefarmer
 

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Well thanks...I just went dumpster diving for the letter.

It reads "The Ultra Clean" Pat Pending blend of Renewable Diesel & Biodiesel
( 20% renewable ,20% Bio D , 60% standard diesel)

bla bla ....Increased lubricity and more complete combustion of bio diesel

YUK....my guess is this is no good huh?

Most stations only have the bio D ...I think its S 90 or whatever. 10% bio.

A few stations give you a choice....Time of year used to be a factor on the good gas ..Its all but gone now.

Just a couple stations in a 30 mi radius with Non Ethanol reg gas....$5 + per gallon

I am in Oregon, and I pump my own diesel almost 100% of the time for my Dodge Ram 3500. It is legal to pump your own diesel fuel here in Oregon. I've only been to one station where they would not allow it. It was at Fred Meyer's in Sandy, where the same pump dispensed gasoline and diesel. They absolutely insisted that I could not pump my own, so I left without filling up. Usually, I only let pump-monkeys fuel me up when I'm all dressed up and going somewhere nice for dinner, or some such, and make double sure they don't select and grab a gasoline pump handle. I've had to stop more than one from doing that in my time!

My local 76 station has off-road diesel that only has B5 (5% biodiesel), and it is not dyed red either. In fact, they only have one underground storage tank for diesel, so both "on-road" and "off-road" diesel come out of the same nozzle. They just charge the off-road price if you tell them it's for off-road, ...and pump it into something other than your car or truck.
 

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i use the Power Service anti-gel (made by Cummins filtration) year round, it claims to contain lubricants for the injector pump. My 1050 is an older tractor so i like having extra lube in the fuel (even if it's all in my head that it helps).

Also, I would not use ATF or 2-stroke oil, i would imagine you can end up with a lot of soot in the exhaust, or as I'd always been told, burning oil in a 4-cycle engine will burn the valves.
 
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If you feel you must use a product I would stick with Stanadyne, but I really don't feel you need lubrication enhancements in the fuel unless you have a vehicle or tractor that creates the 27,000 and up fuel pressures required for piezoelectric style injectors. (High pressure, common rail)
 

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If you feel you must use a product I would stick with Stanadyne, but I really don't feel you need lubrication enhancements in the fuel unless you have a vehicle or tractor that creates the 27,000 and up fuel pressures required for piezoelectric style injectors. (High pressure, common rail)
What he said ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

but if you feel you must:
Amazon.com: Stanadyne Lubricity Formula Pint Bottle 16 oz, Case of 12 Bottles Treats 125 gallons Diesel Fuel per Bottle.: Automotive
 

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Did y'all ever notice that there are very few fuel related issues here on GTT coming from North Central and North Eastern PA. We use a peculiar mixture of 50/50 bright red off-road diesel and stolen home heating oil. Smokes a little and produces some soot but doesn't plug filters or gel.
 

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I add motorcraft cetane booster and sta-bil diesel fuel stabilizer to both my 1025R and my 250SD. The fuel I get at our local Southern States pump already has additives in the fuel and is 50 cetane from the pump.
 

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This is a little old but there was research done regarding the increased lubricity of diesel additives. The results are a little surprising. I used to use Stanadyne Performance Formula, but after reading this I switched to Opti-Lube XPD. Biodiesel appears to be quite good for lubrication purposes.

Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf
 

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This is a little old but there was research done regarding the increased lubricity of diesel additives. The results are a little surprising. I used to use Stanadyne Performance Formula, but after reading this I switched to Opti-Lube XPD. Biodiesel appears to be quite good for lubrication purposes.

Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf
This is the exact study I was talking about in my earlier post. Just go to the end of it and read the results, and note some additives actually made things worse.
 

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I’m following with interest. Since I have a 2018 4044R with the Tier 4 DPF, the last thing I would want to use is a diesel that would generate more soot.

The manual states using a fuel that meets ASTM D975 is recommended and that would cover lubricity as well. It also states that using Bio-Diesel up to a maximum concentration of 20% is allowable if it meets ASTM D6751 or D7467. Since I’m in a more rural area, I’m not sure there is Bio-Diesel available near me. I only made sure what I was buying was Ultra Low Sulfer, but now I need to look more closely at what it is I’m actually getting.

I’m using highway diesel not off-road. I only buy 10 gallons at a time, usually when I fuel the pickup, so I’m not concerned about long time storage. It’s easier to buy it that way because the only off-road outlet is the local farm store and they’re not very excited to come over and unlock the pump. And, it’s not that much cheaper to be worth the hassle.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks to all for the advice. I looked at the tests PDF and it was very interesting as well. Ill probably just stick with the John Deere stuff.
 
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