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Discussion Starter #1
So I have ordered the components to install the hydraulic lift as well as the independent valve kit. I am taking my good sweet time as the weather is cold as heck and we typically don't get enough accumulation to warrant plowing. So this weekend was the hydraulic lift install. One thing I noticed is that the orifice plate that was provided in the hydraulic lift kit LVB26205, was not drilled. It is a solid plate. Can anyone tell me what the drilling is supposed to be in this thing? I have the capability of drilling it, but I don't want to get it too far off.

Fortunately I was looking through Psrumors post on the independent valve install and realized what it was. I didn't realize it was the orifice plate since there was no hole in it. He has a photo of the orifice shown and that is when it clicked.

Jeff
 

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Interesting that it is solid and not pre-drilled. I hope someone has the answer cuz I really don't want to pull mine apart to get you the answer. :lol:

Look over the instructions real well, I seem to remember the specification being listed in the valve kit. Of course I could be wrong.
 

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Oh, and good luck. Take your time and it should all go pretty smoothly. When you're finished you'll look back and think it wasn't hard at all.
 

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I was hoping psrumors had the answer here with his previous experience. :unknown: I'd call your dealer and have them call somebody (maybe in engineering in JD). Realistically I'll bet .030 is where I'd start for a restrictor sized orifice. That size seems to be fairly common in smaller hydraulic systems. But that's a WAG. Not official...
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Oh, and good luck. Take your time and it should all go pretty smoothly. When you're finished you'll look back and think it wasn't hard at all.
It hasn't been too bad. Getting the left side bracket on the rockshaft was the hardest part so far. Part of that was because I had the wrong tips for my snap ring pliers. Probably would have helped if I had pulled out the mechanical lift instructions as well. Might have provided some insight.

Worst comes to worst, I'll pull the pic of the orifice in your post, scale the plate and the opening using the pixels, and drill based on that. It will only be a speed deal. I can go small and if it seems ridiculously slow, open it up a size or two.

I have the hydraulic adapters/fittings on the way for the single point install as well. I opted to try 45's on both ends of the interconnecting hoses so we will see how that goes.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Oh yeah, if anyone has any information on how to set the pedal safety switch, that would be helpful. I kinda goobered that up when I tried to remove the damper. Didn't realize how it was all put together and I started turning the eccentric bolt/hex deal.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I was hoping psrumors had the answer here with his previous experience. :unknown: I'd call your dealer and have them call somebody (maybe in engineering in JD). Realistically I'll bet .030 is where I'd start for a restrictor sized orifice. That size seems to be fairly common in smaller hydraulic systems. But that's a WAG. Not official...
Well, I scaled the photo using the pixels and guess what size the orifice comes up to be? 0.0288" to 0.0385" depending on if the bore is 3 or 4 pixels wide. Looks like I will likely just drill to the smaller dimension and call it good, unless I can dig up some better information before next weekend. I will check the instructions again, when I get back to them, and see if it is listed in there, as Psrumors suggested.

Jeff
 

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Most restrictors are .031" or a #68 drill bit.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
I wish I was home playing with my tractor. In west Texas for work this week. Won't be home until Thursday night. Will get some updates this weekend!

Jeff
 

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Ok... looks like we cant really agree on an orfice size. So everyone get those orfices out and measure 'em! And.. If an orfice plate has no hole.. can it really be called an orfice plate?
I have seen only one without a hole drilled. I've put 100's of deck lifts on so I guess it happens. I dont have the resourses here at the house to check size for you. If not too much of a hassle, continue on and have the dealer order you a new one. The orfice just slows the movement down. Without it, the deck will slam up fast and drop fast. At least you can carry on with the install while waiting.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Alright, just about to get this done. Got all of the lines in place, need to run to town and get a #68 drill bit to drill the orifice. Thought I had one.

I do need some help. I managed to totally dork up the pedal switch/damper eccentric when I removed the damper. Does anyone have any adjustment information on this? I didn't see anything in the tractor manual. See attached photo (Thanks to psrumors for the pic!)

Jeff
 

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Sweet deal. Thanks.

Just to confirm... JDParts has the hydraulic mower deck lift orifice, part # LVU16655, listed as 0.025" or a #72 drill.

Jeff
If it isn't to late, you may want to go slightly smaller. My deck moves up and down a little faster than I like.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If it isn't to late, you may want to go slightly smaller. My deck moves up and down a little faster than I like.
10-4. Thanks for the heads up on that. Not too late. I had to order the bits from Amazon. The only place in town that might have them is closed over the weekend. And I'm not in a hurry. I'll try a #78 (0.016") and see what that's like.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Alright! With the exception of putting all the bits back on, and installing the deck lift orifice, I am complete with the install of the independent hydraulic mower lift on my tractor. I cannot say thank you enough to psrumors for his detailed photos and description of his installation. Being able to see photos from several different angles helped tremendously in figuring out which lines went where. Would have gotten there eventually from the Deere instructions but his pics saved me probably an hour overall. Also want to thank him for thinking outside of the box and moving his switch up to the right hand console next to the PTO switch. I thought at first that I would try it with it on the lower left as the factory intended but once I thought about it, it just makes so much more sense to have it on the right. Not sure how Deere thought you could do both the height adjust and hold the switch at the same time. Took an additional 30-40 minutes to cut and file the opening for the switch but will definitely be worth it.

The only problem I had was I had to tweak the line that ran from the SCV line, down to the valve. It seemed like the bends were just slightly too much. I opened up a couple of the bends and then no problems.

I just fired it up to adjust the neutral creep and check hydraulic connections. No leaks and the creep adjust was easy. That deck lift moves really quick without an orifice in it!!!

I am curious if anyone knows what the pedal switch does? My guess is won't allow the tractor to start if too far one way or the other. I must've gotten it pretty close because she fired right up.

Thanks again to psrumors, and everyone else who chimed in for this!

Jeff
 

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That switch you're referring to is the RIO reverse pedal switch. It has two poles (individual circuits). If you do a quick search for "how to disable RIO" you'll find a thread with pictures showing that switch. :good2:

I can't post a link currently from where I am.

RIO prevents the mid PTO from operating in reverse unless you pull up on the PTO knob beyond the "on" position. That switch will shut the engine off if your mid PTO is engaged and you don't pull out the PTO knob.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
That switch you're referring to is the RIO reverse pedal switch. It has two poles (individual circuits). If you do a quick search for "how to disable RIO" you'll find a thread with pictures showing that switch. :good2:

I can't post a link currently from where I am.

RIO prevents the mid PTO from operating in reverse unless you pull up on the PTO knob beyond the "on" position. That switch will shut the engine off if your mid PTO is engaged and you don't pull out the PTO knob.
Got it. Duh. Should have thought about that for a few minutes! For some reason I heard multiple clicks when it was being pressed in so I thought it had a neutral position.

Thanks!

Jeff
 

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Would you mind listing the parts/kits I need to add this setup to my 1025R? I want to order it and install myself, but I'm not clear on what all I need to order. Thanks!
 
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