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I have the independent lift on my '09 2520. It gives me about 4-1/2 inches of max lift, and you can get finer cut height adjustment with it, too. On a flat concrete pad, I adjusted the lift linkage so that the MMM deck lift arms would just catch the lift bolts on the deck. This gives the lift it's maximum lift height, but you have to be on a really flat surface in order for the hooks in the arms to engage the bolts on the deck. The plumbing for the independent lift is rather extensive, you have a lockout valve body and the lift cylinder, which sit on opposite sides of the transmission from each other, and there is a second pair of quick release hose fittings that join the ones for the loader; they replace the loader tilt function and serve to channel the hydraulics from the original tilt function through the lockout selector valve. This allows the tilt function on the joystick to lift and lower the deck when the tilt lockout valve is shut. I like the system, it should have been included on the tractor from the factory, and would then have been plumbed in with hard lines, rather than running hoses all over the tractor.

This is the lockout transfer valve control, sends the bucket tilt hydraulics to the deck lift.
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This is the lockout transfer valve, over the right rear axle
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this is part of the deck lift bracket (gold-colored steel) and one end of the lift cylinder, behind the left rear axle
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see all the extra quick release fittings? Looks more confusing than it really is, and I have the loader hooked up in the picture
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This part sits on top of the left fender in front of the ROPS mount. The round knob sets the lift height, and the pin on top locks it in place. It uses a cable that limits how far the deck will drop from full lift height
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