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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed 4 27w 9 LED 60 degree flood lamps today on the 2720.

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I used the factory harness for the lights since the draw was equivalent to the 2 works lights JD sells as a kit. However, I wanted independent control over the lights so I installed a 20a SPST toggle switch in the instrument panel between the factory light switch and the steering column.

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I modified the the wiring harness by cutting the wire going to the work light harness (red/yellow tracer) and installing a capped pigtail coming from the light switch connector for possible future use. I then added a pigtail connecting to the wire going back to the lights to connect to my new switch. Lastly I added a pigtail coming from the hot light switch feed (white/blue tracer) to feed the hot side of my new switch.

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Then I needed to build a mount for my lights. I chose to mount them inside the top of the ROPS. I used some 3/4" square tubing for the mount.

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Looks great Jason, the safety police over on the other site would have a field-day with this:laugh:

Don't forget to plug your smoke detector back in:thumbup1gif:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Here are the results

Front headlight only

Green Light Automotive lighting Headlamp Night




2 forward flood lights

Green Vehicle Car




All forward lighting

Green Vehicle Headlamp Road Grass




Rear 2 flood lights overlooking the ballast box

Pink



Overall I'm pretty happy with it. :good2: The lights aren't quite as bright as I had thought they would be but they have a real broad 60 degree flood, more than your typical flood. They illuminate the operator's station very well with no opportunities to be blinded by looking sideways. I'd recommend them to anybody wanting to upgrade their lighting.:thumbup1gif:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Don't forget to plug your smoke detector back in:thumbup1gif:
Smoke detectors and welders don't get along very well. :lol: I looking to find a heat detector to replace it with.:thumbup1gif:
 

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I installed 4 27w 9 LED 60 degree flood lamps today on the 2720.

View attachment 13757 View attachment 13758 View attachment 13759


I used the factory harness for the lights since the draw was equivalent to the 2 works lights JD sells as a kit. However, I wanted independent control over the lights so I installed a 20a SPST toggle switch in the instrument panel between the factory light switch and the steering column.

View attachment 13760 View attachment 13761 View attachment 13762 View attachment 13763


I modified the the wiring harness by cutting the wire going to the work light harness (red/yellow tracer) and installing a capped pigtail coming from the light switch connector for possible future use. I then added a pigtail connecting to the wire going back to the lights to connect to my new switch. Lastly I added a pigtail coming from the hot light switch feed (white/blue tracer) to feed the hot side of my new switch.

View attachment 13765 View attachment 13766



Then I needed to build a mount for my lights. I chose to mount them inside the top of the ROPS. I used some 3/4" square tubing for the mount.

View attachment 13767 View attachment 13768 View attachment 13769
i thought i read somewhere that if you drill into the rops it voids the warranty. i could be wrong correct me if i am (it never hurts to ask tons of questions)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i thought i read somewhere that if you drill into the rops it voids the warranty. i could be wrong correct me if i am (it never hurts to ask tons of questions)
I won't tell if you don't.:lol:

I haven't heard or read that before, but I wouldn't doubt it. It wasn't certified with the extra 1/2" hole I drilled in it for the wires to pass through. Nor did it have the extra bar welded across the top. I seriously doubt that my modifications actually present a safety issue though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I was kinda concerned with this at first. I didn't want the additional headache from hitting my head if I actually rolled the tractor. Then I mocked up a cross bar with some clamps and found there is close to a foot of clearance. That should be adequate even for tall fellers.:good2:
 

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I won't tell if you don't.:lol:

I haven't heard or read that before, but I wouldn't doubt it. It wasn't certified with the extra 1/2" hole I drilled in it for the wires to pass through. Nor did it have the extra bar welded across the top. I seriously doubt that my modifications actually present a safety issue though.
ok i am thinking of adding 4 lights when i get my 1026R 2 lights facing forward and one on the holes drilled for putting the hazards on the inside facing the rear and fab up a platform for a led amber strobe light (12v outlet)on top of the rops (ill post some pics when i do it) i know that probably is over kill but i would like to be light up like a Christmas tree and be seen
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Jason,

That looks great! How much of a pain is it to pull the dash off?
It's not too bad. The hard part is getting the steering wheel off. The splines were not wanting to let go on mine. Then you need to remove the throttle lever. Remove the steering shaft boot and loosen the two bolts hidden underneath. Lastly, remove the two bolts at the forward lower end of the dash right under the hood corners. Then all that's left is electrical connectors and the tachometer drive. :good2:


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I was told it was. Buddy bought a new Branson and asked that question, they said any new holes or modifications at all to the ROPS = your baby!!!
Warranty on the ROPS or warranty on the tractor?
 

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If you don't mind me asking, what are you using to fill your ballast box and how much weight does it give you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If you don't mind me asking, what are you using to fill your ballast box and how much weight does it give you?
I currently have 8 or 9 bags of pea gravel in my ballast box. It weighs in around 650-700lbs IIRC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Warranty on the ROPS or warranty on the tractor?
John Deere will not warranty any mods anybody does to their tractors, but a mod to the ROPs won't void your warranty on the entire tractor. That would be against Federal law.
 

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Nice looking mod Diesel, probably stronger than original. I assume you can still fold the ROPS down? I also assume this would rule out a BH in the future.

What's with the no springs on the garage door?
 

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If this question should be in a separate thread, feel free to move it there...

What is the ROPS "warranty"? That if the tractor rolls over the ROPS won't fold over and crush you? I'm asking this seriously. Has anyone ever had to make a ROPS warranty claim? I'm thinking the ROPS is so over-engineered that you would have to do a lot of "modifications" to it to compromise it. I'm guessing the lawyers see to that. I can see why the manufacturer says the warranty is voided if you do any mods, but bolting a light on, or running some wires through one doesn't seem like it would do much to the integrity of the ROPS. It certainly wouldn't stop me from doing this mod.

It is funny. I've never owned a tractor or piece of equipment that had lights on it, so I always plan my projects so I am finished well before sundown. I keep forgetting my 2520 has lights on it. :laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Nice looking mod Diesel, probably stronger than original. I assume you can still fold the ROPS down? I also assume this would rule out a BH in the future.

What's with the no springs on the garage door?
Thanks for the compliments guys! :hi:


ROPs will most definitely fold as I have to fold it to get in and out of my garage. Not sure about BH compatibility. Does the BH come within a few inches of the top of the ROPs?

Oh well, no BH in my future on this tractor anyway. I can't justify the expense. I'd love to own one though. :lol:

The garage door does have springs. They are the torsion style right above the door running across the header.


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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Andy, the way I see it, the warranty on the ROPs is my life. Will it save my hide if I roll the tractor? I believe it will. I have no plans on ever bringing my tractor in to JD for a warranty claim on the ROPs. On the other hand I can't hold JD liable for failure if my mod caused an issue with the ROPs.

It's pretty much a non-issue with me.


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