Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 20 of 44 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
616 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
  • I've hunted here in the forum for some insight on how/if this will work. No Love.
  • I've spoken to Peter at Artillian who didn't think their system was really designed to work with the Single Point. He suggested that JD may have an off the shelf diverter that will work which doesn't excite me.
  • We both agreed that Kennyd knows more about it than Peter does.
  • I know better than to jump into anything without a thorough discussion with you guys.
That said, the plan is to install a EA55 Grapple when I get this sorted out. So what do you guys think?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
17,098 Posts
I'm confident it will work, you'd just need different hoses.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
616 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I thought it might, so the new hoses would just be shorter yellow and black lines from the single point to the diverter, correct? Everything else should work as designed? I just looked at the mast on my 220r and it is tight in there, but I think it would fit.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
17,098 Posts
I can't answer which hoses for sure just yet, but yes probably just the two from the single point to the IN side of the diverter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,565 Posts
I'll be doing this install myself pretty soon. I'll let you (and Peter) know how it goes.

220R with single point connector, and Artillian Diverter kit.

Tim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
I'll be doing this install myself pretty soon. I'll let you (and Peter) know how it goes.

220R with single point connector, and Artillian Diverter kit.

Tim
Tim, did you get a different tractor that has the 220r loader?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,565 Posts
Tim, did you get a different tractor that has the 220r loader?
Uhoh. Did I let something slip?

Perhaps I'm gonna figure out how to put the 220R on Johnny???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
616 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I'll be doing this install myself pretty soon. I'll let you (and Peter) know how it goes.

220R with single point connector, and Artillian Diverter kit.

Tim
That's great Tim, love your video's. In fact the only Artillian diverter install I've enjoyed watching is the one you did on your 1025r. Helped a lot. Got any kind of timetable maybe?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,565 Posts
That's great Tim, love your video's. In fact the only Artillian diverter install I've enjoyed watching is the one you did on your 1025r. Helped a lot. Got any kind of timetable maybe?
Not sure, sorry.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
616 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I've started the install today, just a few minor glitches so far.
The bolts for connecting to the mast are two different lengths, the shorter for the narrower part of the mast. I found it quite difficult to attach the unit to the mast as the mast has both a crown and and a curve along with a narrowing towards the top. You can see this in the first two photos. I did finally get it mounted, but instead of using the top and bottom thru-holes I ended up using the bottom and the middle one as you can see in the 3rd photo. I spoke to Peter at Artillian and mentioned that they should send two of the longer bolts, it would make a better attachment.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
616 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Step 2 is sorting out the hydraulic lines and where they go. Here I have run into yet another problem. Artillian does not have a specific package for installing the diverter to a 2032r /220r loader with the Single Point hydraulic connector. So as I am sorting through the hoses I notice that the lines from the tractor to the diverter come with a male disconnect on the tractor end. This won't work as the single point is looking for a compression fitting. So the Yellow and Black hoses are disconnected fromt he single point and from the hard lines on the FEL as seen in the first photo.

So I have called Peter again, and emailed him photos and I'm inquiring if I can return the hoses with the Quick Connect in exchange for a set with the compression fitting. In order to determine what size the compression needed to be, I tried attaching the single point end on the hard line because they appeared to be the same, and indeed they are the same size as you can see in the second photo. So I have sent that info to Peter. I'm not sure if they will exchange the hoses or charge me a fee to do so. I will let you all know.
 

Attachments

·
Administrator
Joined
·
17,098 Posts
Those connections are call "ORFS", for O-Ring Face Seal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
616 Posts
Discussion Starter #13

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,436 Posts
Step 2 is sorting out the hydraulic lines and where they go. Here I have run into yet another problem. Artillian does not have a specific package for installing the diverter to a 2032r /220r loader with the Single Point hydraulic connector. So as I am sorting through the hoses I notice that the lines from the tractor to the diverter come with a male disconnect on the tractor end. This won't work as the single point is looking for a compression fitting. So the Yellow and Black hoses are disconnected fromt he single point and from the hard lines on the FEL as seen in the first photo.

So I have called Peter again, and emailed him photos and I'm inquiring if I can return the hoses with the Quick Connect in exchange for a set with the compression fitting. In order to determine what size the compression needed to be, I tried attaching the single point end on the hard line because they appeared to be the same, and indeed they are the same size as you can see in the second photo. So I have sent that info to Peter. I'm not sure if they will exchange the hoses or charge me a fee to do so. I will let you all know.
You may just need to remove the male disconnects from your hoses, then depending on what fittings the hose ends have, get an adapter. You may even be lucky enough to have Female ORFS hose ends. If they are female JIC, I know you can get adapters.

When I did single point couplers on my tractors I had to adapt all the hose ends from JIC to ORFS
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
17,098 Posts
You may just need to remove the male disconnects from your hoses, then depending on what fittings the hose ends have, get an adapter. You may even be lucky enough to have Female ORFS hose ends. If they are female JIC, I know you can get adapters.

When I did single point couplers on my tractors I had to adapt all the hose ends from JIC to ORFS
The QD’s in the Artillian kit have 1/4 NPT threads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
616 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
You may just need to remove the male disconnects from your hoses, then depending on what fittings the hose ends have, get an adapter. You may even be lucky enough to have Female ORFS hose ends. If they are female JIC, I know you can get adapters.

When I did single point couplers on my tractors I had to adapt all the hose ends from JIC to ORFS
Thanks Zebra, at this point I am trying to work with Artillian to help them know what is needed in the 220r Diverter kit when installed on a Single Point. So Peter is working on sending me a new "Gang of 2" as it is called, that has the original 90deg connections on one end and a 45deg ORFS on the other end of each hose. It also has a part of the wiring harness in the sleeve with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
616 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
STEP 3

So while I wait for the replacement "Gang of 2" hoses, I pressed on and installed the quick connect manifold on the FEL cross bar.

Pretty straight forward, but I advise you install it before threading the hoses up the FEL arm. The bias in the hoses can fight you trying to make it sit level on the crossbar. Don't overtighten the hoseclamp as the manifold is sitting on the plastic cover over the hardlines. There is a rubber pad you have to hold under the manifold to protect the paint.

Once the manifold is installed, the hoses you are holding is known as the "Gang of 4". To run the hoses, first pull the 2 short hoses out of the sleeve and thread the other two hoses along the hardlines up the FEL arm. At this point I recommend you remove the side cover on your 2 Series to give you more room to wrench. With this done, you can now put the two short hoses and the two long hoses back into the sleeve and connect them to the Diverter according to the directions. I chose NOT to attach the zip ties to hold the hoses along the hardlines yet, I will go back and do that at the end when I am certain I have the hoses where I want them. The two short hoses can now be connected to the hard lines for the dump and curl according to the marks on the hoses. The top hardline is the curl. These hoses do NOT have the black and yellow zip tie markers on them. I have black and yellow zip ties so I added them myself.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
616 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
STEP 4 - The so-called "dreaded" wiring

This really is my favorite part. Years spent adding accessories to cars, off road vehicles, motorcycles and tractors makes me pretty comfortable with this step.

So the first thing to do was to add the new Joystick knob with the button. I decided to run the wire down outside of the boot because there really is no way to enter the boot near the joystick. So only about 2" of wire shows. I used 1" black split loom to cover the wire and joystick handle then used electrical tape to close it. See pic#1.

Next, I cut off the switch that came on the Artillian harness about 6" away from the switch so I can add it to inventory for some future effort. I slid about 6" of heat shrink on the wire and then soldered the wire from the joystick button to the Artillian harness. I had removed the under-fender on the right rear to access the Joystick wire. Sorry no pic.

So now I had to decide where to get power from. I checked the manual and found the 2032r has THREE fuse boxes, and one of them was under the floor on the right side of the seat just to the left of the control panel. What a stroke of luck! See pics #2, #3. Access came from one large bolt in front and two smaller bolts in the back and the cover lifts right off after pulling up the "rate of drop/lockvalve" knob. So I ran the power and ground wires from the harness under the fender to this fusebox. I put a ring connector on the ground and used the bolt that holds the fusebox for my ground. See pic#4.

For getting the power, I opted to use a minifuse circuit tap. See pic #5. Now which fuse? I wanted to use the 10amp fuse for the right side panel (Fuse F18) but it was too close to the side for the mini-tap, so I chose the 20amp fuse (F17) for the rear worklight instead. See pic #6. I decided to use a 5amp fuse as the Artillian diverter is supposed to draw only 4 amps max, and the switch on the joystick is rated at 5amps. See pic #7 and #8. I notched the side of the fusebox cover without damaging the seal so the hot wire could avoid being crimped. Sorry no pic.

From here I tackled the "intermediate wire" from the diverter plug back to the switch. I started at the plug end and slid 1/2" black split loom over the wire all the way back to the point where it meets the power/ground wires in the harness. I located where I wanted the wire to run under the floorboards, basically following the hydraulic hard lines and zip-tying it along the way. I ran the plug up under the lower side panel and found a nice little seam between the upper panel, lower panel and the cowl where I could place the plug for the diverter. See pic #9

The last thing I did was to coil up the extra length of wire from the "intermediate wire" diverter plug behind the fusebox and zip tied it safely against the frame before putting the cover back on. Sorry, no photo.

The next step will be to add the final hoses with the correct fittings. Stay tuned.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
616 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
So as a followup to Step 2, Peter and I discussed this and Artillian doesn't have any 45deg ORFS connectors, so on a recommendation I went to my local NAPA shop where the very helpful gentleman is currently in the process of changing the Quick Disconnect ends to #6 ORFS 45deg female connections just like the red and blue on the singlepoint. But those male quick disconnects will not go to waste..... Travis at Everything Attachments tells me they only ship with 1/2" quick disconnects and they don't have 1/4" as an option. So he offered to send with just 3/8" NPT for $20 off and I am purchasing a pair of 3/8" NPT to 1/4" NPT adaptors which will allow me to reuse the male disconnnects off the "Gang of 2". By this afternoon I'll be wrapping this project up.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,436 Posts
STEP 4 - The so-called "dreaded" wiring

This really is my favorite part. Years spent adding accessories to cars, off road vehicles, motorcycles and tractors makes me pretty comfortable with this step.

So the first thing to do was to add the new Joystick knob with the button. I decided to run the wire down outside of the boot because there really is no way to enter the boot near the joystick. So only about 2" of wire shows. I used 1" black split loom to cover the wire and joystick handle then used electrical tape to close it. See pic#1.

Next, I cut off the switch that came on the Artillian harness about 6" away from the switch so I can add it to inventory for some future effort. I slid about 6" of heat shrink on the wire and then soldered the wire from the joystick button to the Artillian harness. I had removed the under-fender on the right rear to access the Joystick wire. Sorry no pic.

So now I had to decide where to get power from. I checked the manual and found the 2032r has THREE fuse boxes, and one of them was under the floor on the right side of the seat just to the left of the control panel. What a stroke of luck! See pics #2, #3. Access came from one large bolt in front and two smaller bolts in the back and the cover lifts right off after pulling up the "rate of drop/lockvalve" knob. So I ran the power and ground wires from the harness under the fender to this fusebox. I put a ring connector on the ground and used the bolt that holds the fusebox for my ground. See pic#4.

For getting the power, I opted to use a minifuse circuit tap. See pic #5. Now which fuse? I wanted to use the 10amp fuse for the right side panel (Fuse F18) but it was too close to the side for the mini-tap, so I chose the 20amp fuse (F17) for the rear worklight instead. See pic #6. I decided to use a 5amp fuse as the Artillian diverter is supposed to draw only 4 amps max, and the switch on the joystick is rated at 5amps. See pic #7 and #8. I notched the side of the fusebox cover without damaging the seal so the hot wire could avoid being crimped. Sorry no pic.

From here I tackled the "intermediate wire" from the diverter plug back to the switch. I started at the plug end and slid 1/2" black split loom over the wire all the way back to the point where it meets the power/ground wires in the harness. I located where I wanted the wire to run under the floorboards, basically following the hydraulic hard lines and zip-tying it along the way. I ran the plug up under the lower side panel and found a nice little seam between the upper panel, lower panel and the cowl where I could place the plug for the diverter. See pic #9

The last thing I did was to coil up the extra length of wire from the "intermediate wire" diverter plug behind the fusebox and zip tied it safely against the frame before putting the cover back on. Sorry, no photo.

The next step will be to add the final hoses with the correct fittings. Stay tuned.
Very Professional wiring job! :bigbeer: :thumbup1gif: Well done! :hi: :greentractorride:
 
1 - 20 of 44 Posts
Top